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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 










































































EXPERIENCES OF 

MR. AND MRS. PATRICK CUDAHY 

'i 

# 

ON A JOURNEY TO A PORTION 
OF THE OLDEST HISTORICAL 
PARTS OF THE WORLD DUR¬ 
ING THE FIRST FOUR MONTHS 
OF 1906 : : ::::::::: 



MILWAUKEE, WIS. 
1907 






Copyright 1907 
by Patrick Cudahy 



5VRDICHSALLEN 

PFUNTER.S 

MILWAUKEE 



PREFACE 


In September, 1904,1 was taken sick and obliged to take a vacation for 
about eight months. I went to California, spent the winter, returned to the 
office in May, and although not feeling any too well, kept at my desk until 
January, 1906. Then I thought I had better take another vacation for the 
purpose of endeavoring to restore my condition to what it was formerly. I 
had always had a great desire to visit the part of the world made historical by 
the birth, life and death of Christ, our Saviour. 

Ever since I have been married I have always felt that my wife (whom I 
will now style as my Old Sweet-Heart) was as much entitled to a vacation as 
I was, and whenever I went away on a trip I have succeeded in getting her 
to come with me. On those lines I planned a four months trip. When I 
first suggested this to my O. S. H. she was not in the least enthusiastic, as she 
feared the experience of the ocean trip. The question of how to arrange for 
our children was also an obstacle. My two sons were attending the Un¬ 
iversity at Madison; our daughter Helen was a day pupil at the Milwaukee 
Downer College; and the Misses Josephine and Irene were at home. We 
arranged to have Helen board at the Downer, and having heard of a nice 
private school in Florence, Italy, conducted by two American ladies, Miss 
Sheldon of Madison, Wisconsin, and Miss Nixon of Chicago, Ill, we wrote 
to them, and succeeded in having Miss Josephine and Miss Irene taken as 
pupils. My O. S. H. covered up the furniture in the house, and after the 
usual leave-taking with our relatives and friends, we packed up, turned the 
key in the door at 54 Prospect, and started. 

I made notes as we went about, took kodak pictures, bought postal 
cards, and now intend to put the matter together into a book for my own 
pleasure and amusement. I hope that, should one of these books ever get 
into the hands of an outsider, they will not think that I am presuming at an 
attempt at writing; it is simply a little memorandum that I wish to keep as a 
reference to renew the pleasures of the trip, from time to time. 














%\)t 3lournep 


N the morning of January nth, we left Mil¬ 
waukee for Chicago, on the C., M. & St. P. 
Road, and took the Manhattan Limited on the 
Pennsylvania Road that afternoon. It was a fine 
train : there was a colored woman to look after the wants of the 
ladies, and, of course, a porter for the men. I often thought 
about this luxurious train while traveling in the dirty old cars 
on the other side. 

We arrived in Jersey City about noon on the 12th, took 
lunch and waited around for our daughters to arrive from 
Dayton, Ohio, where they had gone to visit their sister, Mrs. 
T. A. Ferneding. At about four o’clock they arrived. I had 
intended to put up at the Meyers Hotel near the North German 
Lloyd docks, but my daughters had never been to the Waldorf. 
In order to give them the experience of seeing the mixed crowd 
that patronizes this hotel, we crossed over and spent the night 
there. I think we were well repaid for the trouble, for any¬ 
body that has stopped at the Waldorf knows that the people 
that patronize that place are about as cosmopolitan a crowd as 
you can find anywhere. You find the Tammanyite there as 
well as the merchant; and women of all grades and all shades. 

On the morning of the 13th we crossed to Hoboken and 
boarded the Konig Albert, which was to take us across the 
briny deep. We took seats near the gangway in the boat and 
thus had a good opportunity of seeing the people come aboard. 




It was an interesting sight, also interesting to listen to the 
“jabber” of the people. There was quite a difference between 
the woman’s good-bye and the man’s good-bye. The woman 
threw her arms around her sister’s neck, gave her a hug and 
kiss, while the man stood off and shook hands. There were 
some tears shed, but not very many; generally a cheerful and 
happy crowd. There was the usual waving of handkerchiefs 
and flags, throwing kisses, etc. The crowds^ remained on the 
docks, also on the decks of the ship, until we had gotten so 
far down the river that the effect of the handkerchief waving 
was lost. We stood on deck watching the buildings on each 
side, until we passed the statue of Liberty Enlightening the 
World, which the people of France donated to this country, 
and for which I think the people of this country are not suffi¬ 
ciently grateful. 

We lifted our hats and bid good-bye to the Land of 
Liberty, and then went into our staterooms. Here we found 
a number of telegrams and letters from relatives and friends, 
laden with kind wishes for a pleasant voyage and safe return. 
There were also three large bunches of American beauty roses, 
from the same source, for the ladies. This was all very cheer¬ 
ing and pleasant, for there is no time that one appreciates such 
little remembrances as when leaving home. 

After reading the telegrams and letters and getting our 
bearings, we went to the dining salon to have lunch. We were 
placed at a table with four women; “poor me” alone at a table 
with seven women, but the head of the four would have passed 
for a man if she were in man’s attire. She was a great power¬ 
ful woman, with a Roman nose and a jaw that could bite a 
nail in two. Her three daughters ranged in age from a kid of 
sixteen to a spinster of about forty. 

By now the sea had already begun to show quite a bit of 
disturbance and the boat was rocking a little so that my crowd 


The Konig Albert 



Statue of Liberty 


A New York Sky Scraper 





































7 


did not eat a very large meal. They ordered quite a bit, looked 
at it and then let it go back. We then went on deck and specu¬ 
lated among ourselves as to the nationality of our friends at 
our table. I put them down as Hibernians, but my O. S. H. 
and the girls would not agree with me. They thought that 
the old lady’s nose indicated they were Hebrews. 

We had now gotten into a pretty rough sea, which con¬ 
tinued for fully three days. The feminine portion of my 
party went to their berths and remained there during all of 
this time. Nearly everybody on the boat was more or less 
affected. I put up a pretty good bluff and took something to 
eat in my room for the first day or two, then went to the salon 
and got better acquainted with my neighbors. After talking 
with them I was fully convinced that my guess was a correct 
one. They were people who had traveled quite a bit and the 
only thing they would talk about was something that happened 
in Rome, St. Petersburg, or some other great city. They did 
not seem to know very much about their own country, but a 
great deal about Europe. On returning to my ladies I told 
them that my guess was the correct one, and ventured another, 
which was that the old man was dead and they were having a 
good time with his money. This was also confirmed later on. 

The sea became somewhat calmer, yet my party, as well as 
a number of others, were still sick and in a wretched condition. 
I talked “Christian Science” to my crowd and tried to make 
them believe it was all imagination, but it would not go. My 
O. S. H. said she knew better and that there was no imagina¬ 
tion about it; it was real sickness. I think she was right, for 
the circumstantial evidence was all in her favor. There was 
not much life on the boat until the morning of the fifth day. 
The wind calmed down, the clouds were broken and the sun 
appeared occasionally during the forenoon. On the eighteenth 
of January, when the steamer chairs began to fill up, the people 


8 


exchanged smiles with each other and made acquaintances, 
something like pleasure began to be felt. That evening the 
captain put the finishing touch to the pleasure of the day by 
making a hall at one side of the boat. He had the sailors hang 
a number of banners of all nations on each side and had the 
ship band at one end playing dance music, which brought out 
quite a number on the floor. Those who imagined they were 
dying twenty-four hours before were now skipping a “fantastic 
toe.” 

There are always a number of characters aboard a ship 
who stand out in prominence. On this trip was an old Hebrew 
named Steinert. He was fully seventy-two years old, and 
quite a genius. We met each other in the barber shop and he 
seemed to take to me at once. He gave me his history, saying 
that he was a musical genius. He afterward let me have a 
book which he claimed was his own biography. It was an 
interesting story, well put together. The book was passed 
around and read by a good many passengers, and the old fellow 
became quite a hero. 

Then we had a bachelor lawyer from Minneapolis, who 
made himself very pleasant. He was a true Yankee, loaded 
with Yankee wit and was able to pour it out on all occasions. 
His name was Lamb, and through some mistake he was regis¬ 
tered as “Miss Lamb,” which fact he claimed accounted for 
his having a whole stateroom for himself. He took his salt 
water bath every morning and spent most of his time during 
the day in what he called the smoke house. He would come 
to me and say, “Cudahy, don’t you think I will be about fit to 
be carved when we get to the other side ? By taking a salt bath 
every morning I will be pretty well pickled, and being in the 
smoke house every day I will be well smoked.” He was con¬ 
tinually working off something of this kind and making people 
laugh. 


9 


There was also a Mr. and Mrs. Anderson from some small 
town in New York. Their chairs were right next to ours. 
She was a bright, chipper little woman and was on deck every 
day. Her husband, poor fellow, was sick most all the way 
over. She seemed so impatient to think that she was up and 
around while he was lying in his berth; but he pulled himself 
together after a while and we had a few evenings, playing 
bridge with them before we landed. 

Another passenger was a bright-eyed little blond lady sit¬ 
ting in a chair on the other side of the Andersons. I had a 
curiosity and dropped into the vacant chair next to her. We 
had a chat and I formed an opinion of her. The next day we 
had another chat and I was convinced. She proved to be an 
adventuress and gave me quite a bit of her history. She said 
she spent the previous winter in Rome, where she had two 
foreigners on the string, one an Italian and the other a French¬ 
man. According to her story it had come to pretty nearly a 
duel between the Frenchman and the Italian. This time she 
had her eye on a good American who was living at Nice. She 
was going there where she would find plenty of congenial 
society. 

We also had a newly married couple from Milwaukee 
aboard. Both of them were jolly, sunshiny people, particu¬ 
larly the bride, who was quite a nice singer, and made it 
pleasant for a good many. There was a small concert given 
one evening, when the bride and the middle aged Hiberian 
spinster from our table sang. The spinster was a blond, rather 
thin and pretty well freckled. Of course, she could not sing 
anything but French, at which she squealed, and nearly fainted 
while she was at it. Another lady sang “My Old Kentucky 
Home,” and put our Hibernian blond with her French entirely 
in the shade. 

The boat, as the name implies, was a German Liner. The 


10 


stewards who waited on table and also took care of the rooms 
could speak little or no English, so I found my packing house 
German came in very handy. There was a sort of King 
Wilhelm air about the ship: all the stewards had Kaiser Wil¬ 
helm mustaches, brushed out and turned upward. There was 
a German band with alU wind instruments. They made a 
powerful lot of noise and if the elements had not been so windy 
we would have appreciated their music made by wind more 
than we did. We had about five different kinds of sausage 
every day for lunch, but we had plenty of other good things 
as well. 

On the twenty-first, I think it was, we passed the Azores 
and we were all very happy to get a peep at land. 

We sighted Gibraltar on the morning of the twenty-third, 
and I tell you we were a very happy lot to feel that our rough 
voyage was at an end. We all went ashore in the tenders, 
hired a cab and took a ride up to the fort. When we got there 
we were obliged to wait quite a little while for a guide to show 
us through, as all the guides that were detailed for that duty 
were out. While we were waiting, one of our American 
friends, with true American cheek, said to the sergeant, “Why 
can’t you allow one of those other fellows to go with us?” The 
sergeant answered, “There are certain men for that duty and 
they are out now, so you will be obliged to wait until they re¬ 
turn.” Our American replied, “Why can’t you come along? 
You’ll do.” The sergeant took it good-naturedly and smiled. 
When we got our guide we all started out together to what is 
called the Galleries, which is a large passageway up around the 
rock, about twenty feet in from the surface. We went con¬ 
tinually upward and around the rock until we had walked 
about two miles, yet we had not seen nearly all of the Galleries 
as there were some parts that the public was allowed to see only 
by permit, and it was said it was necessary then to be a British 



Near the Azores 



Gibraltar 


































11 


subject. I was told by some that there were about five hun¬ 
dred guns mounted, and by others that there were about one 
hundred. Probably two hundred and fifty would be the right 
number. I always had a great desire to see the Rock of Gibral¬ 
tar ever since I was a boy, for my grandfather used to tell us 
about it. He said it was provisioned for twenty years, and 
the crackers and hard-tack were about that old. I told our 
guide this and he said that the old man was not so far wrong, 
as he had eaten biscuits that had moldy whiskers on them. 
They were naturally obliged to eat the oldest first, which was 
pretty hard on the boys I think. Whether there were one 
hundred guns mounted or five hundred guns, or whether it 
was provisioned for five years or twenty years, there is one 
thing certain, and that is, Gibraltar is a great fortification and 
places John Bull in a position to deal out death and destruction 
to the ships of any nation that pass that way, should the old 
lion’s hair happen to' be brushed the wrong way by them 1 . 

Gibraltar City is an odd place. All nationalities are to be 
found there: English, Scotch, Irish, German, Jews, and quite 
a few of the old Moors are seen strutting about in their out¬ 
landish looking dress, turbans on their heads, bare legs and 
sandals on their feet. The population of Gibraltar is about 
25,000, six thousand of whom are soldiers. The town is 
governed by a British military governor, and the old Moorish 
castle up near the fort is now used for a jail for prisoners con¬ 
victed of civil offenses. The British also maintain a marine 
hospital there for the sick mariners of the Mediterranean fleets. 
There were about one hundred and fifty at the hospital when 
we were there. A number of the passengers, among them our 
two daughters, who disembarked from the Konig Albert for a 
short visit to Gibraltar, returned again to the boat in the after¬ 
noon at about four o’clock fi> continue their trip to Genoa. 
The usual amount of fakirs and peddlers congregated on the 


12 


docks, selling feathers, flowers, fruits, etc. Mr. Lamb and I 
had quite a bit of fun at the groom’s expense, by sending every 
one of those peddlers who called on us, to him, telling them 
that he was a banker and had plenty of money. This caused 
him no end of annoyance, yet he took it good-naturedly and 
all had a good laugh. 

When we landed from the Konig Albert we decided to 
cross over to Algeciras, Spain, where a conference of nations 
was being held, and spend the night there, thinking that we 
might have the pleasure of seeing some of the diplomats, so 
had our luggage taken to the pier with the view of taking the 
boat in the evening. When we returned to Cook’s office we 
were informed that there was no possible chance of getting a 
room in Algeciras, so decided to remain over night in Gibraltar. 
We put up at the Cecil Hotel, which is a very nice clean place, 
and had a fairly good meal. 

Next morning we arose early, took the boat at eight o’clock 
for Algeciras, but instead of buying niy railroad tickets from 
Cook’s I bought them at the office at the docks. In doing so I 
made a mistake, as I afterward had no end of trouble on ac¬ 
count of the language, until we reached Madrid, where Cook’s 
again had an agency. 

On the morning of the twenty-fourth we crossed from 
Gibraltar to Algeciras in a boat. The morning was crisp and 
cool. On the boat was a sickly looking Spaniard of the shabby 
genteel order, with his cloak thrown over his shoulders, smok¬ 
ing a cigarette. There was also a stocky built Englishman with 
high stockings and knee breeches. I elbowed up to John Bull 
and struck up a chat. He told me that the Spaniards were a 
beggarly, priest-ridden set and that if I had any luggage that 
I wanted to pass through the custom house without being an¬ 
noyed, all I had to do was to give the officials a small tip, as it 
was likely they had not received a penny from their govern- 


13 


ment for some time. When we got across it was our first real 
taste of being among people who could not understand our 
language nor we theirs. There was all kinds of jabbering 
and howling by the porters and a number of them grabbed our 
luggage and carried it up to the custom house where we got it 
through without any trouble and without tips. Then another 
set of porters took it over from the other side of the custom 
house and placed it on the racks in the compartment which 
we were to occupy in the car. About one dozen hands were 
out for pesetas and I think I paid six of them before I got 
through. This was my first experience with Spanish porters 
and, like everything else, I had to pay for my experience. 

In the compartment with us was a man who spoke with a 
strong English accent and another who did not speak at all for 
some time. We were a little mixed about the one who spoke 
English as to whether he was an Irishman or an Englishman. 
The other one we had sized up as a Spaniard, who we thought 
could not speak English. In this we were very much mis¬ 
taken, for when he got started he spoke very good English and 
said he was born in Gibraltar and that one of his parents was 
English and the other Spanish. He proved a very pleasant 
and interesting companion, as he knew the country thoroughly 
through which we were riding and gave us a great deal of in¬ 
formation about the habits of the people and the days when the 
bandits rode over their trail where the railroad runs now. Our 
other companion proved to be an Irishman named O'Connor, 
who was in the employ of the British Government, as a doctor 
in the Navy Hospital of Gibraltar. Although Irish in name 
and by birth, he was thoroughly English in his politics and 
sympathies. He would brighten up at anything said in favor 
of John Bull and would remain silent and dark when anything 
was said in favor or in sympathy with the Irish. I had been 
preaching to my O. S. H. about the d— f— Irish, and finding 


14 


fault with them because they would not be loyal like the Scotch 
and Welsh, and speak of the British flag as “our flag’’ and the 
British king as “our king.” I found, after meeting this 
O’Connor, who was so much unlike any other O’Connor I had 
ever met, that I took a hearty dislike to him, and I presume 
that I have to confess that I am about like the rest of the Irish, 
more or less of a lion tail twister. 

The country through which we rode was very pretty. There 
was a stream of water running in the opposite direction to us 
as we went up through the valley. The sloping hills on each 
side of the track were dotted over with olive trees, here and 
there a live oak and a good bit of thorny underbrush known 
in England as “gorse” and in Ireland as “furze.” There were 
also a good many almond trees in blossom ; and a number of 
little villages set in at the foot of the hills. The houses in these 
villages were as white as they could be made with whitewash. 
Our half Spanish friend told us that the houses were not al¬ 
ways kept so white inside, however; that the Spaniard, as a 
rule, liked to keep the best side out. The train moved at the 
rate of ten miles an hour, so it was a good deal like taking a 
drive in the country with a horse and buggy, and one had 
plenty of time to view and admire the scenery. We passed 
some farm land where there were a number of women at work, 
hoeing, as it seemed, in the wheat field, with one man as an 
overseer to keep them in line. Some of them wore red skirts, 
others white and still others green, which looked quite pic¬ 
turesque in the field. This ride reminded me quite a bit of 
California. The climate was about the same as that of 
Southern California and quite a number of trees were of the 
same species. As this was our first trip on land after arriving 
on this side of the continent, we did not tire of looking out of 
the car windows. 



In Moorish Ccstume 



The Alhambra 





















16 


At every railroad station were a number of police and 
soldiers. I inquired of our friend, who furnished us all in¬ 
formation, why they had so many soldiers and police about. 
He said it was for the purpose of preventing tobacco of any 
kind being smuggled in, as the Spanish government had quite 
a monoply of the tobacco' trade and derived a large portion of 
their revenue from that source. Our friend said that if any 
one wanted to get tobacco through, however, all he had to do 
was to tip the guards. 

It got dark a little after six o’clock. The only light we 
had in the car was a small oil lamp set up in the ceiling, and a 
man went on top of the car to light it. This way of lighting 
a lamp was certainly Spanish. We tucked ourselves in our 
wraps and settled down for a little snooze until we arrived at 
Granada, our destination, at 7:40 in the evening. We put up 
at the Washington Irving Hotel, so-called on account of our 
American author’s work in writing up the Alhambra, which is 
about the only thing that draws tourists to Granada. 

When we turned out early the next morning the sun was 
shining brightly. The night had been quite cold and the air 
was frosty, and it felt like an ideal October morning in Mil¬ 
waukee. I went out for a stroll to the old Moorish Palace and 
back again to the hotel. After breakfast we engaged a guide 
and my O. S. H. and I went with him to see the sights. 

On the way to the Alhambra we stopped at a photography 
shop where we were photographed in Moorish costumes. After 
getting the pictures I told my O. S. H. that she looked a real 
Cleopatra, while I might be taken for a real Moor. 

The Alhambra is the remains of an old Moorish palace, a 
sort of combination of palace and fortress. The word picture 
that Washington Irving drew of it in his book is rather better 
than what it appeared tO' us and we were somewhat disap¬ 
pointed. Yet the architecture, especially the columns and 


16 


arches, is of a very delicate and artistic style. The coloring 
is something wonderful, that is, when one considers the length 
of time it has been there. The Spanish have been doing some 
restoring, but they never seem to be able to get the color per¬ 
fectly. 

We saw where the Moors took their baths and had per¬ 
fumed air blown on their person. I presume they would or¬ 
der ottar of roses one day, geranium the next, or possibly night 
blooming cereus, if they so desired. We also saw the private 
entrance to their harem, etc., etc. 

We climbed what was known as the Watch Tower close by, 
where they constantly kept a watch to see that no harm befell 
them. The walls in this old tower are about five feet thick 
with peep holes here and there. There is a winding stone 
stairs running from the ground, and when we got to the top 
of it I was puffing like a steam engine. The view from this 
tower was grand, and especially so on this bright sunny morn¬ 
ing. We looked over the old Moorish part of the city, and 
beyond, in the distance we could see the snow capped Nevada 
Mountains, certainly a beautiful view. After talking with our 
guide on the religion of Spain, and matters in general, we re¬ 
traced our steps down the winding stairs. At the bottom 
stood a poor woman who now lives in this once famous tower; 
her hand was out and we gave her a few pesetas, bringing a 
smile to her face as she said “Gracia.” From there we walked 
back to the hotel through what is known as the Alhambra 
Park, nothing more than a large number of elm trees planted 
by order of the Duke of Wellington a great many years ago. 

After lunch and a short rest we took a carriage to the Ca¬ 
thedral, where we saw all kinds of paintings and works of art. 
A good deal of it was wood carving of great merit. Charles 
V. and his queen lie buried in this church, also one they called 


17 


“Crazy Jane.” I believe she was the mother of Charles V. 
(I am not very well up in the pedigree of royalty, so I may be 
mistaken as to names). The effigies of those that are buried in 
this church are in marble above their tombs. 

From here we drove to an abandoned monastery, once oc¬ 
cupied by Carthusian monks. On the walls are a lot of paint¬ 
ings, portraying the history of the cruelty of England toward 
the Roman Catholics, particularly toward this order of monks, 
during the reign of Henry VIII. The pictures were hideous 
to look at, showing tortures of all kinds; there was one showing 
the English carving the monks and throwing their limbs and 
bodies into a pot and boiling them. Old Henry might have 
been a pretty hard citizen, but it struck me that those paintings 
were terribly overdrawn. I became thoroughly disgusted 
when I saw them, for such things only keep alive religious 
prejudice, and religious prejudice is what the world has suf¬ 
fered most from. Some say the reason that the grape vines 
and things grow so well in the Holy Land is on account of the 
soil being so well fertilized by human bodies slaughtered by 
one religious sect or another. I think the greatest work that 
any preacher or any missionary can do is to break down re¬ 
ligious prejudice, and I am very much pleased to see so many 
good liberal priests and bishops as well as ministers coming 
to the front in that line. 

Next to religious prejudice comes race prejudice and 
political prejudice. During the Civil War it was said that 
Stonewall Jackson was one of the most religious men that 
could be found. He would not think of doing any kind of 
work or business on Sunday, yet if he got a chance to kill a 
few Yankees he thought he was doing the work of the Lord. 
People of my age can remember that during the Civil War, 
when there were a lot of God’s people slaughtered on one side 


18 


and the other, numerous cripples, widows and orphans made, 
thanksgiving services were held in the churches and prayers 
offered up to the same Divine Lord. 

Note some Englishmen. Their prejudice against the Irish 
is so great that if a man washes his face and wears a decent 
suit of clothes they cannot believe that he is an Irishman. If 
a man is at all prominent, let his name be Michael Murphy or 
Patrick McCarthy, an Englishman will talk with him as 
though he was a brother Englishman and will even make re¬ 
marks about the blasted Irish, not realizing that he is at that 
moment talking with an Irishman. 

At the time of the Blaine and Logan campaign there was 
an Englishman named Henry hanging around Plankinton’s 
office. He was a bacon merchant from Liverpool. I asked 
him in a joking way one day who were his candidates. He 
replied that he did not know much about them, but he under¬ 
stood that the Irish all favored Blaine, so he was against him 
on principle. “Anything to beat the Irish” he said. I smiled 
at the poor fellow and took it out in thinking. (But hold on 
here, P. C., you are getting off the track, get back to your 
story.) 

After leaving the monastery we drove to what is known as 
the gypsy quarter in Granada. The sun was shining and it 
was quite warm. In driving we passed through a portion of 
the city settled principally by the poorer class. They were all 
out sunning themselves, men, women, children and goats; 
one woman was washing her clothes on a wooden washboard 
in a stream of water running in the gutter. It looked rather 
odd, for the water was not any too clean. The gypsy quarter 
is located on the side of a hill and they live in holes dug into 
the hill; some of them have a chimney for ventilation running 
up through the hill in the rear and probably a hole in the front 
to let in a little air, which is about the only ventilation they 


19 


have. Most of them had no ventilation whatever, except a 
little opening in front. They are a lazy, yet happy looking set. 
It was hard to see where they got their support from, yet the 
children all looked plump and fat and fairly well clad. Such a 
thing as a w. c. did not bother them, as our guide said “All 
Spain belongs to the Spaniards.” Fertilizer was to be seen all 
along the sidewalk. We drove to the top of a very high hill. 
The sun was just setting, so we had a very pretty view of the 
city and country around, and a lovely sunset. We then re¬ 
turned to the hotel and felt that we had put in a busy day. 

I had my first shave after leaving the boat, at the Washing¬ 
ton Iriving Hotel at Granada, Spain. It was supposed to be 
a first-class place, yet there was about an inch of loose hair all 
over the floor. Don’t think the shop had been swept out for 
a week. After the fellow shaved me he placed a wash basin 
up under my chin for me to wash my face. The basin was 
made in such a way that part of the rim was hollowed out to 
fit in around the neck. I did as I was told, washed my face 
and dried it myself, paid him for the shave and got out. It 
was quite a contrast compared with the barber shops in this 
country. 

On Friday morning, January 26th, we started for Seville, 
and got to the station about half an hour before train time. It 
was lucky we did, for I had quite a time in getting my tickets. 
I told the fellow I wanted a ticket for Seville, which he did 
not seem to understand. I repeated it several times, but it 
would not go. Finally an Englishman standing nearby, who 
understood the language, pronounced it “Sevalie.” I held out 
my money and the ticket agent helped himself and gave me 
two first-class tickets. I then passed to the baggage room. 
We had more luggage than would be carried on our tickets so 
I was obliged to pay for it. One fellow put the trunks on a 
scale, weighed them and reported it to another who sat near 


20 


the window. He did a lot of writing and made out four slips 
with a carbon paper underneath so as to make more impres¬ 
sions. He jabbered Spanish at me. I held out my money 
for him to help himself to whatever pesetas he wanted. The 
old fellow who weighed the trunks looked over his shoulder 
and seemed to detect an error. He did a lot of talking and 
made motions with his hands and eyes. The office man looked 
disgusted, went over to< the scales, then went on writing again 
and made out new tickets. 

It was quite a cold morning, and poor me standing there 
shivering and shaking all this time, thinking possibly the train 
would pull out and leave us. When he got his new tickets 
ready I again let him help himself to pesetas and we passed 
through the gate and boarded our train just about a minute 
before it pulled out. We got into an apartment with an Eng¬ 
lishman and his wife. He was the one who had made Seville 
plain for me and was a witness to the whole proceeding. His 
wife was a rosy-cheeked, chipper little woman, I should say not 
much over five feet high, with pretty blue eyes and silver gray 
hair. Her husband was a long, lean, lanky sort of a fellow 
with a blond mustache all twisted out to a sharp point on each 
side. He wore a cream colored overcoat and brown leather 
leggings. He must have been suffering with a cold for his 
voice was completely gone and we could scarcely hear a word 
he said, but his wife made up for him in the way of talking. 
She kept her tongue going continually. She thought the 
Spaniards dreadfully slow, “Oh, dear, yes, one hundred and 
fifty years behind the times.” Up to this time I had heard that 
the Spaniards were one hundred years behind the times, but 
she added another fifty and I adopted her figures after my ex¬ 
perience with the trunks. One of her favorite expressions 
was “iniquitous.” She called her husband “deary” and when 
she got mixed on dates or anything in that way she referred to 


21 


“deary” to help her out. I talked with her quite a while and 
then my O. S. H. took a hand at it, but she was enough for 
both of us. 

We changed cars at a station called Rodda, and all got into 
a compartment with three Americans, a gentleman named 
Hawkins, with his wife and daughter. They were very chatty, 
democratic people and we had quite a pleasant ride until we 
reached Seville. The Hawkins party and ourselves put up at 
the Hotel de Paris, quite a large, pretentious looking building 
with a most pretentious manager. We were shown to a room 
which was about as cold as zero would be on the shore of Lake 
Michigan. We were experiencing a cold wave, and there was 
no heat of any kind in the hotel. I looked around and found 
another room on which the sun had been shining during the 
afternoon, and it seemed a little more comfortable, but after 
the effect of the heat from the sun had left the room it also got 
frigidy. I went down to the office and asked them if they 
would not give us some heat in the room. They finally got me 
a “brasier” (which is a large kettle set on legs with a charcoal 
fire in it). This we kept going constantly to help keep the 
chill from the room. 

Saturday morning, January 27th, we hired a guide (i. e., 
he said he was a guide, but turned out to be a crazy Frenchman 
who could not speak either Spanish or English). He talked 
mostly with his hands and eyes. I wanted to engage sleeping 
accommodation to Madrid and took him to the ticket office to 
act as interpreter. I told him what I wanted and supposed he 
would explain it to the ticket agent, but the more he talked 
with the agent the more mixed up they seemed fi> get. After 
putting in about half an hour making signs and jabbering, I 
finally succeeded in getting my tickets. By this time I was 
about as nervous as I could be and felt like throwing my French 
guide into the street. We went from there to the Cathedral, 


22 


I 


a very fine Gothic structure about four hundred and fifty feet 
long and three hundred feet wide, with fifty Gothic columns, 
each fifteen feet by fifteen feet in width. The main altar is in 
the center of the church, connected with the organ or place for 
the singers with an iron railing on each side. All over the 
church there were statues without number. The base of the 
organ was particularly grand in the line of statuary. There 
is also a royal altar, in the background of which are about 
three hundred niches, each of them containing a figure. One 
thing I noticed particularly in the church was four large figures 
in bronze, bearing what represented the body of Columbus, on 
their shoulders. The four figures stood on a square marble 
base with a panel on each side, on which were inscriptions ex¬ 
plaining the ingratitude of the Americans towards its mother 
country, Spain, referring, of course, to the Cuban War. We 
saw a lot of jewels, also a grand chalice which was presented 
to the church by some great mogul, and a lot of costly vest¬ 
ments, one of which they told us had cost 70,000 pesetas. They 
also had a grand silver tabernacle which they carry in the 
streets when they have public processions. Our French guide 
told us it took forty men to carry it. This Frenchman was 
the worst nuisance of a guide I ever had anything to do with. 
He talked with his eyes, hands and tongue all at the same time. 
He would say, “Lookee, lookee, tomb of Ferdinand. Looke, 
here, Peter the Cruel. Lookee, lookee, fine jewels.” I tried 
hard to understand him and the more I tried the more nervous 
I got, so when we got back to the hotel I was about ready to 
quit sight-seeing. 

In the afternoon we went to the Alcazar, another Moorish 
Palace about the same as the Alhambra at Granada, only it is 
not quite so large, but I think a little better preserved. It was 
very beautiful. In some places the stucco work had been re¬ 
paired by the Spanish, I noticed. The dividing line could be 


23 


clearly seen, as the new work was not equal to the old in color¬ 
ing. In walking about I came across a painting of one por¬ 
tion of this structure, showing the arches and hall. It was a 
very pretty thing. The artist had it marked for sale, 600 
pesetas, and I was foolish enough to offer 300, thinking that, 
of course, I would not get it, but I did. Then I kicked myself 
for not having offered 100 instead of 300. Little Frenchy was 
with us all the time and was continually dancing about, ex¬ 
claiming, “Lookee, lookee, fifth century, eighth century, very 
old, lookee here.” I took a different tack with him in the 
afternoon; instead of trying to understand him I mimicked 
him, and had some fun, so my nerves had a little rest. In that 
way I changed what in the forenoon was an aggravation, into 
pleasure and amusement. 

In the evening we took a drive and passed an old wall that 
Frenchy said was from the fifth century. When we returned 
my O. S. H. thought she would like a bath. As there is no 
such thing as bath tubs in connection with the bedrooms in 
Spain, I went to the office and inquired where such a thing as 
a bath could be had. I was shown into two small rooms on the 
ground floor. There was a bath tub in each room, one for the 
ladies and one for the gentlemen. The tubs were cut out of a 
solid chunk of marble, rubbed down and polished on all sides. 
I don’t think they were more than twelve inches deep and about 
sixteen to eighteen inches wide. They set flat on the floor, and 
the water had to be dipped and sponged out after they were 
used. There was no heat in the room, of course, and the attend¬ 
ant told me we could only have a bath in the morning as there 
would not be sufficient water after they got using it through 
the house. So after considering the situation we decided to 
do as we presume the Spanish do, go without a bath. 

The next day, January 28th, being Sunday, my O. S. H. 
said we must go to church. I told her I did not think I could 


24 


say prayers in one of those museums with anything like devo¬ 
tion or proper respect, but she insisted on my going, so we put 
on our best clothes and went to the Cathedral to late service. 
There was a low mass just being finished at one of the side 
altars as we went in. A fair number of people attended this 
mass, probably as many as two' hundred. The high mass be¬ 
gan at 10:30, in the center of the church on the main altar. I 
think there were as many as eight or ten priests, including the 
celebrant and his attendants. The ceremony was grand; mass 
was said in a beautiful and solemn manner; a choir, all male 
voices, responded to the priest during the service, in a very 
devotional way; and the large organ pealed forth fine music; 
but all this service in an empty church. I looked around and 
saw this grand edifice with this ceremony going on, and only 
about one hundred people in the church, the large columns 
seeming to be the main portion of the audience, and my mind 
wandered back to the days when I attended the little Holy 
Name Church on the corner of State and Eleventh Streets, 
where dear old Father Walsh officiated. The seating capacity 
of the little church was about four hundred, and every seat was 
generally occupied. The people who went there went for a 
purpose, and their minds were intent on what they were doing. 

I contrasted that with the church which I was in, and I said to 
myself, “Which is the more edifying to the Lord, this great big 
Cathedral which cost millions and this grand ceremony in an 
empty church, or the little wooden church on the corner of 
Eleventh and State Streets, packed with devout, sincere peo¬ 
ple?” My verdict was in favor of the little church. 

That afternoon, being in Spain, I thought I would do as the 
Spanish do, so I went to a bull fight. The ring was a newly 
prepared one, with seating capacity of probably 1,500, and 
every seat was occupied, standing room as well. It was a 
disgusting affair. The poor old horses were scarcely able to 



Spanish Costume 



Bull Fight 




















25 


walk. The bulls were furious enough and kept the men on 
the jump dodging their horns. I looked on until the affair was 
about half over, when I became disgusted and left. My curi¬ 
osity as far as bull fights were concerned was well satisfied. 
My signora stayed at home with the Hawkins, and I think on 
the whole enjoyed herself better than I did. The Hawkins 
were very nice people. Mr. Hawkins at one time was em¬ 
ployed at the U. S. Yards at Chicago with some of the old-time 
packers. He was quite well acquainted with old “Hutch,” as 
he was vulgarly called. Mr. Hawkins lost about all he pos¬ 
sessed in Chicago, and being something of a writer went back 
to New York and wrote books on “mechanical engineering.” 
As he explained them to me they were books of instruction 
whereby an ordinary man with a little experience might become 
an engineer. This seemed to have been his vocation for he 
made a great success of it, selling any number of those books 
for $2.00 that cost him only fifty cents. A short time after 
we met him he informed me that he was a Baptist and a lineal 
descendant of Roger Williams. I, in turn, informed him that 
I was a Roman Catholic and a lineal descendant of Brian Boru. 
Being properly introduced we got on very nicely. He threw 
quite a few bouquets at my Signora and I, of course, threw a 
number back at his. His daughter was a chipper, bright girl, 
about twenty-seven or twenty-eight years of age, and of true 
American type, always ready to chat. 

On Monday morning, January 29th, I was a little under 
the weather. My trouble, however, was not of the kind that 
makes your hair pull for I had faithfully remained on the 
wagon up to this time, yet I was not feeling well and did not 
care to go out. I put in the day lounging about and taking 
it easy, but my Signora, still thirsting for more old ruins, 
started out to hunt up some old thing that they said was ten or 
fifteen hundred years B. C. and tramped about and feasted her 


26 


eyes on it and came back and told me all about it. That after¬ 
noon we bade the Hawkins good-bye and took the train for 
Madrid. I almost feared to tackle the sleeping car, I had 
such a hard opinion of the day coach; yet I was agreeably sur¬ 
prised at finding a fairly comfortable car, something of the 
style of our compartment cars, only on a much more stingy 
scale. The berths ran crosswise, the same as the seats do in 
their cars. We had a compartment with two berths. Of 
course, I took the upper berth. When I looked at the width of 
it I was almost afraid to run the risk of placing my old bones 
in it for the night, but after I got in, it sagged down and I 
wedged in between the frame so that I felt quite safe. We 
both had a good night’s sleep and got up in the morning feel¬ 
ing very much refreshed. There was an excuse for a dining 
car on the train and we went there and got our coffee and rolls, 
which is the regulation breakfast all over that country. As 
we were coming into Madrid a courier who was conducting a 
party through Spain, pointed out a stone post to us, which he 
said was the center of Spain. It was planted by some king 
whose name I don’t recollect. 

We arrived at Madrid about 8 :oo Tuesday morning, Janu¬ 
ary 30th, and put up at the Hotel de la Paix, a very com¬ 
fortable house and very well conducted. We got a nice room, 
facing the Plaza where we had the sun most of the day, which 
is everything in Spain, as there are no fires. After getting our 
bearings I called at Cook’s, got a cablegram from the office, 
which set me at ease as to how things were running at home, 
also some mail, which we very much enjoyed reading. We 
then took a stroll down a very fine wide street. There were a 
number of fine turn-outs, and the people on the streets were 
very well dressed. I began to feel that there was at least one 
spot in Spain that looked like civilization. We had seen so 



My O. S. H. in Madrid 



































27 


much misery and dirt in the south that we had begun to think 
there was no good in Spain. In the evening we wrote letters 
to our relatives and friends and retired early. 

Next morning, Wednesday, the 31st, we engaged a guide 
and in order that there would be no misunderstanding we in¬ 
formed him that we were Roman Catholics (for sometimes 
those fellows say things that are not very pleasing to hear). 
Our first visit was to the church of St. Francis the Great. It 
was comparatively new and modern and a very grand struc¬ 
ture; a square building with a round dome in the center, a 
number of side altars and a large number of statues, among 
them the twelve apostles in heroic size, cut out of granite. I 
stepped across the space on the floor corresponding with the 
diameter of the dome and made it about one hundred feet, and 
think it would measure about one hundred seventy feet from 
the floor to the top of the dome. The dome was gorgeously 
frescoed and the side altars were decorated with paintings of 
different subjects, one large canvas-representing the Sermon 
on the Mount. There were two large paintings, one of St. 
Anthony pleading with the Pope for the privilege of allowing 
his soldiers, during the times of the Crusaders, to eat meat 
during Lent and on Fridays. The way one of the pictures 
reads, the Pope told him that he would lay the matter before 
his cardinals and let him know later. The next picture shows 
Anthony after praying to the Lord for the privilege that the 
Pope hesitates about granting. The Lord appears in a vision 
to Anthony and grants the privilege. Anthony goes back to 
the Pope, makes known his vision and the Pope gives his con¬ 
sent. I could not but think that Anthony would have made a 
good politician. It is on the strength of this privilege that was 
granted the Crusaders that the Spaniards now claim the right 
to eat meat during Lent and on Fridays. Yet our guide said 
that there were very few who took advantage of this presumed 


28 


privilege. My experience through Spain taught me that there 
was very little religion or principle of any kind among them. 
I guess the matter of eating meat or doing without it does not 
trouble their conscience very much. 

From the church we strolled over to the Royal Palace, 
where the military guards who protect his “royal nibs” were 
about to be changed. This is done every twenty-four hours at 
eleven o’clock in the forenoon, and there is quite a display of 
military pomp in the courtyard at this time. A detachment of 
each of the army, artillery, cavalry and infantry, march in to 
take the place of the retiring squad. They line up on one side 
of the square, while the others who are about to retire line up 
on the other side. After the new squad is in place and facing 
the other, an officer of the day of each squad steps forward, 
exchange some words and the retiring squad marches away. 
The cavalry are called lancers. They dress in blue and wear 
polished helmets and carry little banners at the end of a pole, 
which makes them look quite picturesque. On the whole 
“Alfy” ought to be able to sleep soundly, knowing that he is 
so well protected. 

We then visited the Royal Chapel in the palace, which is 
like all churches in Spain, grand in fresco and paintings. A 
portion of this chapel is for the royal family and the remainder 
mostly for the servants. Strolled back to the hotel and after 
lunch took in the National Gallery, where we saw no end of 
paintings by a number of the old masters, but there was a great 
deal of sameness about them, being principally of the sacred 
order. There was a portrait of a Cardinal, by Raphael, which 
was particularly striking. The artist did his work so well that 
you would actually think it was life you were looking at. 

After craning our necks looking at pictures, we took a drive 
through the park, where we saw the nabobs of Madrid. There 
was a great deal of style and any number of rigs with two men 


c 


i 



Palace Guards 



A Lancer 
















29 


on the box. We were not very gay ourselves as we had a very 
poor old crobate of a horse and a cheap looking cab. We left 
the cab and walked down to where a very large monument was 
being erected to the memory of Alphonso XII., father of the 
present king. This was only in process of erection, but there 
was a model of it there, showing what it would be when com¬ 
plete. Our guide said that he thought it would be finished in 
about two years more. I asked him how long they had been 
working at it and he said about four years. Such a thing 
would be built in the States in about six months. We took a 
short walk out to the drive and sat down on a stone seat, 
chiseled out of a solid block of stone. The seat part of it was 
about sixteen inches wide and the back the same, so it must have 
taken a block of stone about two feet square to make one of 
those seats. There were a number of them about, and what a lot 
of work it must have been to make them. One of those seats 
would cost as much as what would supply the whole park with 
seats of the kind we use. Yet, they were there to stay, and it 
was Spain. 

We rode back to the hotel; my O. S. H. said she would like 
to go to the opera so I had our guide go out and get us tickets. 
We went early to see the crowd come in. The opera was sup¬ 
posed to begin at 8 130, but when we got there a little before 
we were about the only ones in the theater. The audience con¬ 
tinued to arrive until the second part was almost over. It 
seemed that scarcely anybody cared for the first part. The in¬ 
terior of the theater was very handsome, the seats were large 
and well upholstered and covered with red plush. The boxes 
were also lined with red plush. The ceiling was grandly fres¬ 
coed. Nearly all of the men who attended wore silk hats, not 
the crush hat, but the day hat. They seemed to think that the 
hat was the whole thing, for they wore them between acts 
in the theatre. When the curtain dropped they put on their 


30 


hats, turned around and stared at the women. The women 
were not a very attractive lot. There were a few stout matrons 
among them, and all of them were covered with powder. The 
ushers were quite attractive; they wore red stockings and knee 
breeches and their coats were covered with brass buttons. I 
counted eleven buttons down one fellow’s breast and ten on his 
back. The orchestra consisted of about sixty men, all with 
string instruments, which in itself was a great treat to listen to. 
The singing was also good, and we enjoyed the evening very 
much, but, following our old habits we left at about eleven 
o’clock and returned to our hotel and nestled down in our 
downy beds. 

Next day, February ist, we visited the modern art gallery 
and looked at more pictures, some of which were very good. 
There was one large painting representing a lot of young wo¬ 
men gathering straw after the thrashing, which had been done 
by spreading the grain on the ground and having horses 
tramp on it. We asked our guide if there was any such thing 
as that done at the present time. He said there was quite a 
bit of it done; said there were a few thrashing machines, but 
not many. They sow the grain by hand and cut it with a 
hooked knife and thrash it by driving horses around on top of 
it. On the way home I saw a sign over a store reading “Stur- 
ges & Foley.” Of course, I thought that Foley was a Hiber¬ 
nian, or at least a son of a Hibernian, so I had a curiosity to 
see what Mr. Foley was like. I turned on my Yankee cheek, 
went into the store and asked to see Mr. Foley. He was 
pointed out to me. I introduced myself saying that I was from 
the States, saw his sign outside and thought I would see 
whether Mr. Foley was an Irishman or a Spaniard. Imagine 
how I felt when Mr. Foley replied with the strongest kind of 
an English accent, “I am nither, sir, I am as much of an Eng- 


31 


lishman as they make them.” After a few words, the best I 
knew how to make use of, I begged pardon and walked out. 

As we strolled back to the hotel I noticed quite a lot of men 
standing in the sun, where they were sheltered from the wind. 
I asked our guide what all those men were doing there, and he 
replied, “They are taking the sun, it is the cheapest thing in 
Spain.” That about explains the whole situation. In Spain 
the men are indolent, there is no energy. The taxes are high, 
and there is no encouragement held out to anybody to invest or 
do anything in the way of manufacture. Some people are 
inclined to charge up everything that is wrong in Spain to her 
religion. In my judgment this is not the proper account to 
charge it to, for religion is a very scarce commodity in Spain. 
There are plenty of clergymen and churches, but very little 
religion. It is more likely the lack of religion. I think her 
backwardness can partly be attributed to her once greatness, 
and that the Spanish people are now suffering from the feathers 
that their great grandfathers wore in their hats. It is the 
castilian pride, or what we call in this country, “a case of the 
big head.” There is a saying that “There are only three gen¬ 
erations between shirt sleeves and shirt sleeves.” This prob¬ 
ably can apply to nations as well as to individuals. Whatever 
it may be, they are certainly backward. Nothing short of 
some great political upheaval will ever get them into shape. 

We paid our bill at the hotel, bid good-bye to Spain and 
took the train at eight o’clock for Biarritz. I was not quite so 
fortunate this time in getting a berth that sagged in the middle. 
It remained perfectly flat, like a shelf, and I put in most of my 
time during the night hanging on so as not to fall out onto the 
floor. At daybreak we were riding through a very pretty 
valley, a good deal like the ride we had from Algeciras to 
Granada. It was a narrow valley with very little cultivated 


32 


land, yet there were a number of houses, or rather poor, tum¬ 
bled down looking shacks, built along the road. No wonder 
they were poor, for how in the world those people made a liv¬ 
ing from the small bit of fertile land that one could see, was a 
mystery. There were a few coarse-wool, chunky sheep graz¬ 
ing on the hills, making a pretty picture. 

At about twelve o’clock we arrived at the frontier between 
France and Spain, took lunch, and after we had gone through 
the usual annoyance of having our baggage examined, we 
boarded a car on the French side, thinking that we were in for 
about a tw'o hours’ ride, but instead of that we reached Biarritz 
in about half an hour. If we had not been peering out of the 
window, reading signs, we would have been carried by. We 
got out, took a bus and rode to the Victoria Hotel, which had 
been recommended to us by Cook’s agent. When we got there 
I saw what I thought was a much nicer place near by, called the 
“Royal Palace.” This hotel stood out in the Bay of Biscay 
and looked very attractive, so we decided to put up there. The 
interior of the house was in keeping with the name, for there 
was a good deal of catering to royalty about it. There was a 
large crown in stucco work just over the entrance on the in¬ 
side; and a marble slab was built in the wall with an inscrip¬ 
tion on it reading that the site where the hotel stood was once 
occupied by Princess Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III., as a 
private residence, but afterward converted into a hotel. A big 
fellow, dressed up in black with high stockings, knee breeches, 
and heavy hind legs, walked around the hotel. He also wore a 
chain around his neck, on which hung a large nickled crown. 
We were informed that King Alfonso had been stopping at 
this place for a week, where he came to court his bride. He 
left the day before we arrived. Presumably he heard we were 
coming and left to make room for us, as there certainly would 
not be room for two great people in one hotel. In the dining 



Biarritz 



Lourdes 












33 


room meals were served a la carte, but there were no prices 
given. We ordered a very moderate meal, but when we came 
to pay for it it cost twenty-five francs. The next time we 
dined, although we were dieting, it cost us thirty francs. It 
seemed to be the rule of the house to get about so much money 
out of you, no matter what you ordered. Of course, we were 
stopping at a hotel where kings and queens had dined, and we 
had to pay a little something for that. The manager was 
quite a pompous Frenchman. His head was one of those high 
peaked kind, it was hairless from his ears up>, but he had a very 
heavy crop around the lower part of it. This he combed in 
such a way that it bowed out and made his head look as though 
it was sitting in a dish. He was all puffed up over the fact 
that he had entertained the young king. 

Biarritz is very nicely situated on the Bay of Biscay and at 
the proper season of the year it must be very pretty and enjoy¬ 
able there. We were there in the early part of February and 
it was cold and rainy. Originally we had planned to stay a 
week, but the weather being so disagreeable, and probably the 
prices of the hotel having something to do with it, we cut our 
visit short and only remained two days. On Sunday morning we 
packed up, took the train at seven o’clock and rode to a small 
railroad junction named Bayonne, where we had our coffee and 
rolls. Then boarded the train for Lourdes. The country 
which we rode through the early part of the day looked as 
though it was owned principally by small owners, as there were 
many hedges cutting the land up into small pieces. Looking 
from the window it reminded one of a crazy quilt. The work 
on the land is done with oxen in Southern France as well as in 
Spain. In Spain there were heavy brown oxen and in South¬ 
ern France lighter oxen, of a yellow color. There were some 
horses to be seen, but not many. Of course, this is the most 
economical way for them to work in a country where labor is 


34 


cheap, as they can fatten up those oxen when they get old and 
sell them for beef, while the horses are almost worthless. Yet 
that may not be so in countries where horse meat is eaten. 

At the station it was quite interesting to notice the different 
styles of dress. The men wore mostly tam-o’shanter caps, and 
of course, nearly all had mustaches. The women were mostly 
bare-headed. I noticed at one station a few women had their 
hair done up in small knobs pretty well toward the back of their 
heads and on the knobs they wore little lace caps. 

After riding a couple of hours we got into a country given 
up mostly to grape raising. It looked as though it was owned 
by larger owners, as there did not seem to be any dividing of 
the fields. Where they grow grapes they also plant mulberry 
trees. The branches are cut off when young and the leaves are 
fed to the silk worms, and the grape vines are trailed on the 
trees. 

Just before we approached Lourdes we came in sight of the 
Pyrenees Mountains, Right near Lourdes there seems to be 
an independent range of those hills, each one running to a sharp 
point. It had been raining a cold rain, which on the hills was 
snow. They looked quite picturesque, being white about half 
way down and then dark. We pulled into Lourdes at about 
noon. As we neared the station we could see the grotto with 
a large number of candles burning at the shrine. Took lunch 
at a restaurant in the station, and got a very nice lunch for 
about a quarter of what we were obliged to pay for the same 
meal at the “Royal Palace.” After lunch we had quite a time 
getting a guide or some one to speak English, had an awful 
time making motions and talking with our hands, and finally 
got a cab driver, who took us to a store where we found a bright 
little French girl who could speak very good English. We 
told her we were anxious to see the church and its surround¬ 
ings. She said she was just going there to vespers and would 



The Basilica, Lourdes 































































35 


be pleased to have us go with her, so we invited her into our 
carriage and drove to the church. As we had not kept holy 
the Sabbath day up to that time we thought the proper thing 
for us to do was to attend vespers also. Service was held in 
the upper church. All around in this church were flags of the 
different nations hung from the ceiling. This was to demon¬ 
strate that the place was patronized by people of all national¬ 
ities. There were a number of small plaques with testimonials 
inscribed on them hanging about the church. After vespers 
we went down a steep incline which was paved with cement 
to the grotto below. It had been raining and the pavement 
was quite slippery. Just ahead of us were a couple of nuns 
who had on wooden shoes, pointed at the toes, and how they 
ever got down that steep incline in those shoes without falling 
beat me. I was thinking one of them would slip every minute 
and I would then have a chance to make a hero of myself by 
picking her up. The grotto was underneath a projecting rock. 
A great many candles were being burned there, some of them 
two inches in diameter, placed there by different individuals. 
Up in a sort of a niche in the rock was a statue of the Virgin 
and near by were a stack of crutches, braces, etc., discarded by 
people who were cured by faith (minus Christian Science) of 
real or imaginary ills. We then went into another chapel, 
which is directly under the one above. This was literally cov¬ 
ered with plaques and inscriptions of testimonials from people 
of different parts of the world. It was richly decorated with 
mosaic work, paid for by people who had been cured and wished 
to do something in the way of testimonials. There has been 
a lot of money spent on this chapel, and all of it has been spent 
by people who felt they had been benefited by the cure. We 
drove from the chapel up a high hill as far as we could get with 
a horse. On this hill stands a castle. My O. S. H. refused to 
climb, so my little French girl and myself went up the hill to- 


36 


gether. The castle was supposed to be something over one 
thousand years old, built by Charlemagne, I believe. I felt 
well repaid for climbing to the top of the hill, as I got a beauti¬ 
ful view of Lourdes and the surrounding country. On the 
way back from the castle we passed the cottage where the 
peasant girl lived who claimed to have had a vision directing 
her to the spot where the Lourdes Chapel now stands, where 
she would find water spouting from a rock. It is said that up 
to this time the rock had been dry. 

We went back to the station, settled with our cabman, who 
took advantage of the fact that I had not bargained with him 
in the beginning, and charged me twice as much as he should 
have done. We sat around the station waiting for our train 
that was to take us to Toulouse. We boarded about dark, and 
in the compartment with us there were three or four French¬ 
men, wrapped up and having their snooze. We bundled up 
and did likewise. Arrived at Toulouse at about ten o’clock at 
night and put up at the Grand Hotel. Next morning we were 
rather lazy and did not turn out until about nine o’clock. My 
O. S. H. took in the stores and I strolled about killing time. 
One thing that took my eye was the fine draught horses with 
great heavy wooden hames running up and out like horns on a 
Texas steer. There is also a horn that runs up from the center 
of the collar about twelve or fourteen inches. All this may be 
ornamental, but it seems a sin to load the poor horses down 
with a lot of unnecessary weight. When I bought our tickets 
for Marseilles Cook’s agent did not tell me that we would be 
obliged to change cars, but curiosity prompted me to ask a 
porter at the hotel if we would have to change. He said he 
thought not. We boarded our train about eleven o’clock for 
Marseilles. The country through which we rode was all de¬ 
voted to the growing of grapes and the manufacture of wine. 
At each small town along the way were a number of small flat 


37 


cars and on each car were two large wine casks. Running 
parallel with the railroad was a wagon road and on this were 
teams hauling large dray loads of wine. Four fine horses, 
hitched one ahead of the other, constituted some of the teams. 
It was the season for pruning the vines and women were at 
work at it. The old vines were being cut off and the branches 
tied up in bundles, which I presume were taken home for fuel, 
as everything seems to count and nothing is wasted in France. 
At about four o’clock we reached the Mediterranean Sea and 
rode in view of it until about six o’clock, when we pulled into 
a town called Cette. We had decided between ourselves that 
we would not eat anything but fruit that evening, so I left my 
O. S. H. in charge of our bags and I got out to buy the fruit. 
It appeared that about everybody in the train was getting out, 
yet we thought that they were getting out for dinner or it was 
the end of their journey, thinking, of course, that we would 
go on in the same car. A porter called at the compartment 
that we had occupied and wanted to take our bags, but my O. 
S. H., true to her charge, would not allow him to do so. When 
I returned with my fruit the French porter and she were having 
quite a time. She said to me, “You better hurry up or we will 
lose our bags, as I have had all I could do to keep him from 
taking them. After watching the Frenchman’s eyes and shout¬ 
ing “Marseilles” to him a couple of times I finally made up 
my mind that we would have to change cars, so we allowed Mr. 
Porter to take our bags to another car. The conductor showed 
me a card which read “reserved.” I took it for granted that 
he wanted a tip and gave him a franc. He hung “reserved” 
on the door, which insured us the compartment all to ourselves. 
We felt satisfied now that we would not be disturbed until we 
reached Marseilles, got out our books and went to reading. We 
finally pulled into a place called Evon, about nine o’clock. The 
electric light went out and a French porter came to the door 


38 


jabbering French to us. We shouted “Marseilles” at him and 
he jabbered back, finally we made up our minds that we must 
again surrender to the French. We gathered up our traps in 
the dark as best we could, went into a waiting room while the 
Frenchman went off and got someone whom he thought could 
talk to me. The first words the fellow said were, “Koennen 
sie Deutsch sprechen?” I answered “Ya wohl,” and made use 
of my packing house German the best way I knew how. We 
talked about the French and said they were a pack of fools who 
did not know how to run a train or anything else. We were 
soon in another car on our way to Marseilles, where we ar¬ 
rived about midnight. Here we put up at one of the principal 
hotels. Turned out the next morning about eight o’clock, had 
breakfast and took the train for Nice. 

Our ride to Nice was through a very pretty country. The 
suburban part of Marseilles is a very pretty gardening district, 
where people grow flowers and small truck. Some of the 
flowers were in bloom. We then rode into a narrow valley 
with only a short distance between the hills on each side. The 
hills were rugged and covered with pine. A little further on 
the valley widened; there were a number of olive orchards, and 
quite a bit of cultivated land. Every now and then we spied a 
snug little French village. We ran through a tunnel and when 
we came out we had the hills on one side and the sea on the 
other. The seashore was very pretty; there are a number of 
points and bays, also little islands a short distance out from the 
shore and on the other side were hills covered with pine trees. 
As we neared the end of our journey every now and then we 
would see a palm tree or an acacia, such as grow in Southern 
California. 

In our compartment was a large Frenchman who looked 
and acted as though he owned the road. He sat on one side of 
the compartment and his nervous little wife sat opposite him. 



'tmnitu 


Nice—On the Promenade 



Nice—U. S. Warships 

















39 


She would look over and admire her big fellow and pat him, as 
much as to say, “Isn’t he great?” I pointed her out to my 
O. S. H. as an object lesson, but only got a significant sort of 
a smile in return. There was also a young couple in with us. 
The girl, who was about twenty-four or twenty-five years old, 
was a very fine looking person. The young man was just the 
opposite in looks. He had a kind of bullet head on him and 
his face was crispy red, pitted from the effects of smallpox. 
He talked to the young woman continually and made all kinds 
of motions. She looked tired and scarcely ever recognized 
him. After a while he took the hint and let up. We had them 
down at first as a bride and groom, and I was in sympathy 
with the girl, but afterward we decided that they were servants 
employed by some wealthy people. We put her down as a 
governess and he as some sort of a roustabout. 

About eleven o'clock we arrived at Cannes, which is one of 
the principal resorts, and is located on the sea. . This was the 
first real taste of what seemed like warm weather to us. The 
flowers and acacia trees were all in bloom and everything that 
I saw from the window reminded me of Pasadena, California, 
where I spent the previous winter. In another hour we were 
in Nice. Put up at the Grand Hotel and took our first meal in 
the afternoon in the table d’hote dining room, where there 
were three long tables, each of which could accommodate fifty 
persons. We were seated at about the center of one of the 
tables. To my right sat an old Scotch veteran of about 
seventy-five years. He had a bottle of Scotch whiskey in front 
of him and he started his meal with about two inches in the 
bottom of a tumbler. This was only a starter, for he repeated 
the dose once more before he finished the meal. The two 
drinks would make about six fair sized drinks for any ordi¬ 
nary man, yet the old fellow did not seem to feel it any more 


40 


than so much water. It only made him a little sociable, and 
in our chat he told me that next to his king our president was 
the most popular man in the world. As there was no room 
for argument I agreed with him. On the other side of our 
Scotch friend sat an American lawyer named Kelley, from 
New York. As soon as he heard my American voice he 
greeted me by saying “From America?’’ We tried to carry on 
a conversation behind and in front of my old Scotchman. On 
the opposite side of the table sat a Russian with a heavy head 
of dark hair combed pompadour. He had a Pierpont Morgan 
nose as big as one’s fist, and he generally inspected his food by 
either smelling of it or jabbing his knife into it, before he 
helped himself. One’s appetite was much better when they did 
not look at him. Next to him sat his meek little wife. Next 
to her sat a chipper, blond French woman, who always wore a 
gay hat with plenty of flowers on it. She was loaded with 
jewelry, and always had something to say to those near her. 
After finishing our meal we read the papers, retired to our 
room, talked about our neighbors at the table, and went to bed. 

On Wednesday morning we started out for a walk, kind of 
poked around and looked in the windows. Finally we ran into a 
place on the promenade called the “Casino,” which is a sort of 
sporting hotel. A band was playing fine music and two large 
gambling tables running at full blast. My O. S. H. and I sat 
down at a table for a rest and ordered a couple of glasses of the 
goods that made Milwaukee famous. After resting ourselves 
we took a stroll along what is known as the promenade. This 
is a walk about fifty feet wide and about three miles long along 
the seashore. At one place, where a stream of water emptied 
into the sea, we saw a large number of women washing clothes. 
They used flat, wooden washboards, soaked and rubbed the 
clothes and also pounded them with a wooden mallet at times. 



Monte Carlo—The Casino 



Nice 














41 


A sort of partnership seemed to exist between these women, 
for they ate out of the same vessel and helped each other wring 
the clothes. 

Finally we came to a street car line and saw a sign “Monte 
Carlo” on one of the cars, so decided to take a ride to the 
world's famous gambling place. The track ran winding around 
the seashore. Part of the way we were up on a shelf cut into 
the rock, fronting the sea. We rode by a point of land that 
ran out into the sea for probably one and one-half miles, on 
each side of which a bay is formed. One of those harbor-like 
bays is called the Harbor Villafranca. In this harbor were 
four of our United States war ships, one first-class cruiser and 
three second-class. They were all flying “Old Glory” from 
their masts, and you do not know how pleased we were to see 
the old flag. There were a couple of other Americans on the 
cars and we all looked out of the window at the American ships, 
looked at each other and smiled. 

We arrived at Monte Carlo at about eleven o’clock, regis¬ 
tered and got tickets of admission to the Casino (as the gamb¬ 
ling place is called). This building is a very fine structure and 
very nicely frescoed and decorated on the inside. It is built in 
the form of a “T.” There were fifteen gambling tables run¬ 
ning full blast and sitting around them were all kinds of people, 
from the young sporting man to the old sallow looking gray¬ 
haired chaps of seventy or eighty. The same can be said of 
the other sex. There were stylishly dressed women of about 
twenty and the old withered hags of eighty. I saw one old 
dame who certainly was seventy if she was a day, and she was 
up to her eyes in the game. It is possible that some of those 
old people are decoys, but if so they are good ones, for they 
seemed to be very much interested. If there was any differ¬ 
ence in the sex of the players as to number, it was in favor of 
the females, for there were cpiite a few more women there than 


42 


men. Of course, the high-heeled, straight-laced, straight-front, 
highly-painted and powdered lassies were there in large num¬ 
bers. Trailing on to these were a few suckers of rich men’s 
sons who had more money than brains, and this is the place to 
relieve them of it. It was very interesting to study the faces 
of those who were winning from those who were losing. 
There seemed to be a silent seriousness about the place, and on 
the whole it was rather disgusting. After walking about and 
looking on for about half an hour we went out and took a stroll 
in the park, which is a part of the Casino grounds. The park 
was very pretty, all kinds of trees, such as grow in Southern 
California, and all kinds of flowers. We enjoyed the trees 
and flowers very much, more than we did the gambling inside. 
In walking about we saw an art gallery and went in. There 
are quite a number of very nice pictures; and, of course, being a 
French gallery, there were plenty of nudes. It was a pay place 
and when buying a ticket a check was received which could be 
used at a slot machine inside. Everything about Monte Carlo 
has a gambling air to it. The Casino at Monte Carlo, as I 
understand, is owned and run by a company, but the Prince of 
Monaco is the principal owner. He lives in a large place near 
by and has a private entrance to the gambling place so that he 
is not obliged to mix with the common herd when he goes in to 
see how things are coming. At about four o’clock we took 
the train again and returned to our hotel. On the way back a 
palace belonging to the King of Belgium was pointed out to us. 
In fact, I believe he has two palaces there. We were told that 
he was on the streets the day before. If we had known it, we 
might have seen a live king. 

Thursday morning, while I sat outside the window writing 
this stuff, along came a band of four persons playing and sing¬ 
ing in front of the hotel. It was a bright, sunshiny morning, 
and I sat on the balcony and felt as though I was a good deal 


43 


of a fellow having a grand serenade by four fellows. After 
our serenade we took a walk to the flower market, which con¬ 
sisted of a lot of flower stands in the middle of the street. 
There is a certain street given up to the flower peddlers for 
three or four hours in the morning, and it is quite a show. I 
bought my O. S. H. a bunch of posies and then started for the 
promenade, which was thick with people taking the sea air 
and the sun, as our Spanish friend said. We then went to 
Cook’s and got more mail. 

In the afternoon we took a carriage ride up through the 
mountains. This gave us a beautiful view of Nice and the sea. 
The road was narrow and mountainous, but for all that there 
were any number of automobiles tearing along at the rate of 
seven or eight miles an hour. We went up one side of the 
mountain and after we reached the top the snow-capped Alps 
could be seen plainly in the distance. This, I believe, is about 
the line between Italy and France. We drove around the hill 
and came down the other side to the sea. On our way down 
we passed a very fine villa which, our driver said, was owned 
by Lord Salisbury. We also passed a new building which is 
being erected as a sort of memorial hospital to Queen Victoria. 
The queen used to visit Nice quite often in the winter time 
during her life, and the people there think a great deal of her. 

In the evening we took in the opera. The first tableau 
showed that the scene was laid in Rome, during the time of 
the Caesars. There were female beauties without number 
lying around on the floor and with about as much clothing on 
them as David Harum said was on the girls that he saw. It 
was quite a grand opera and we enjoyed it very much. In a 
box across from us sat one of our navy officers with his full 
regimentals on, heavy epaulettes, wide gold stripes on the side 
of his trousers and a white evening vest. All the opera glasses 
in the house were levelled at him, and I felt quite proud of our 


44 


soldier boy. In another box sat two other American navy offi¬ 
cers, but of lower rank, and, of course, did not attract attention 
the same as the other. After we left the opera we stopped in at 
a restaurant “in order to do the thing up brown,” but there 
were so many women of the type that we saw at Monte Carlo 
that we decided we’d pass on the refreshments for the evening 
and went home to our downy beds. 

I mentioned before about seeing women washing clothes, 
but that was before I saw the real thing. There is a river run¬ 
ning through Nice, the bed of which is about one hundred and 
fifty feet wide and extends in length through the city about 
one mile. At the time we were there, there was only a small 
stream in the center of the wide bed and the remainder all 
gravel. On fine days this stream is lined with poor women 
washing their clothes. I saw at least three hundred there at 
one time. They have large baskets which they place on top of 
the gravel and in which they kneel. After washing their 
clothes they dry them on lines hung on poles on the gravel. 
Most of those people live in tenement houses or hovels and 
have no water to wash with and no place to dry their clothes, 
so this river is a God-send to them. 

•On Friday, February 9th, it was cold and disagreeable, so 
we did very little sight-seeing. In the afternoon we took a 
walk in the old part of Nice. In this part there are a lot of old 
buildings, mostly about three stories, with a little shop helow 
and tenements above. The streets, or passage-ways, are very 
narrow, some of them not more than eight feet wide, running 
in all directions and at all kinds of angles. The poor of the 
city live in this quarter and there certainly was a great contrast 
between those people and the highly decked out females we 
saw at Monte Carlo. 

Next morning, February 10th, we got up at 7:00 o’clock, 
which we began to consider quite early, and took the train for 



Grasse 



Interior Casino, Monte Carlo 



















45 


a place called Grasse. This is the place that is noted for the 
manufacture of perfumery, and is located about fifty miles 
from Nice. The ride was over a narrow gage railroad, up 
through a mountainous country. I stood on the platform on 
the rear of the car and feasted my eyes on the scenery, for it 
was simply grand. For about five miles we ran along the side 
of a small river, then up in the hills and along the side of the 
mountain, climbing higher as we went on until we were up 
about two thousand feet. We went through a number of tun¬ 
nels and crossed several valleys and gorges. All the side-hills 
were terraced; I mean by that, that the people living in this 
section used the side-hills as their farms. They build a wall 
about six feet high then run in probably eight feet, then another 
wall and another level piece, and so on all the way up the hill, 
so that the hill looks like so many steps of stairs. It seems 
this country at one time was the home of factions or families 
that were at war with each other, for on the very summit of 
those hills were little towns, which I understand were built by 
dukes or families of noblemen. 

They got as high up as they possibly could so that the other 
fellow could not steal a march on them. There certainly must 
have been some such reason, or they otherwise would never 
have built the houses so awfully high up. I don’t know how 
in the world they every got up and down; and if the wind blew 
there as it sometimes does at Cudahy, they must have had a 
nice time with it blowing through their whiskers. 

We arrived at Grasse a little before noon, strolled into a 
cosy little restaurant and had our lunch. The little French 
woman that seemed to be in charge of the restaurant was such 
a happy, pleasant little person that I got her to come out so I 
could take a snap shot of her. She was a little bit shy at first, 
but after a little coaxing, gave her consent. We then went to 
one of the factories and saw how the perfumery was made. 


46 


There is not much to it; they boil the flowers and extract the 
scent. Some of the finest perfume was made by mixing the 
flowers with lard. This lard was then shipped to different 
parts of the world and the perfume extracted there. We hired 
a cab and took a drive around Grasse. Passed by one very 
large villa said to be owned by one of the Rothchilds. Grasse 
is quite a bit higher than Nice, and there was quite a difference 
in temperature. Ice formed there during the night. At about 
four o’clock in the afternoon we took the train back to Nice. 

Next morning, being Sunday, we got up and went to 
church. I think it was a cathedral. It was located in the old 
part of Nice and was very nicely painted and decorated inside, 
quite in contrast with its outside surroundings. Yet, I think 
that those poor people enjoy a nicely decorated church, for all 
feel a personal interest, and it gives them a great consolation 
to visit it. After leaving our own church we went to what is 
known as the Russian church. Of course, the service was of 
the Greek Catholic form. The church was rather small and 
was what one would call a “rich man’s church,” as it was richly 
carpeted and everything about it had the appearance of luxury. 
We stayed there for part of the service. It was quite interest¬ 
ing to watch the people. They seemed to pay a great deal of 
attention to pictures and images. Almost every person who 
came in brought a candle, or a number of them, lit them and 
placed them in front of some particular object. I followed one 
lady all the way through the service. She placed her candles 
around to the different pictures and statues representing the 
Virgin or some saint, then she went back to her seat in the 
church, stood up and gazed on each of these images in turn, 
praying and crossing herself a great many times. When they 
make the sign of the cross they end on the left shoulder instead 
of on the right. There were about as many men in the church 
as there were women, and they all seemed to be equally devout. 


47 


After leaving the Greek or Russian church we took a stroll 
once more on the promenade. At the end of this promenade 
was a great high hill, which seems to cut Nice partly in two. 
I challenged my O. S. H. to climb the hill. She would not be 
challenged so up the hill we went. It was an awful climb, 
but one was about as foolish as the other and we continued on 
until we got to the top. On the top is a small cemetery in 
which quite a few notables are buried. After rambling around 
I looked at my watch and found that it was almost lunch time. 
We were taking our meals in the table d’hote dining room so 
we were obliged to be on time. It began to rain a little and 
my O. S. H. had on her new feather boa and she was scared 
that the curl would be taken out of the feathers. I got a scold¬ 
ing for suggesting to climb the hill. We took a short cut back 
to the hotel in time to get our lunch. The rain did not spoil 
the feathers, so everything was lovely. 

Monday morning, February 12th, the weather was cold and 
we scarcely knew what to do with ourselves. It was almost 
too cold to enjoy a ride in an open wagon so we took a tramp 
to an old town called Eze, about midway between Nice and 
Monte Carlo, but when we arrived there we found that in order 
to get to the town proper we would have to climb a great big 
hill, so instead of doing that we remained in the car and rode 
on down to Monte Carlo once more. On account of it being a 
disagreeable day the Casino was crowded and all the games 
were running full blast. Crowds of people were waiting round 
for their turn to get at the table, yet it was the same old crowd, 
old haggard faces, sporting men and young suckers. We did 
not remain there any length of time as neither of us cared to 
take a hand in the game and it did not take us long to satisfy 
our curiosity. 

The next day, February 13th, we hustled out and took the 
train at 10:30 o’clock for Marseilles. We got off at Cannes, 


48 


strolled around the streets and looked in the windows. Cannes 
has a promenade a good deal the same as Nice, so we took a 
stroll. There were two large American yachts in the harbor, 
one we were told was owned by Mr. Drexel, of Philadelphia, 
and the other by Mrs. Goelet, of New’ York. They were great 
large boats, and when I saw them I thought it was only the 
Americans who could do the thing up in grand style. “Old 
Glory” was waving from the mast, which tempted me to take 
a snap-shot of one of them. We went into a side show to kill 
a little time looking at moving pictures. The story of Les 
Miserables was illustrated by pictures thrown on the canvas. 
We then took the train for Marseilles at 7:15 and put up at the 
Terminal Hotel, quite a nice place, near the station. 

Next morning, February 14th, we took our luggage and 
started for the North German Lloyd docks, went on board 
the Steamer Schleswig, which was to take us to Alexandria. 
There was quite a breeze blowing and my O. S. H. felt a cold 
chill playing up and down her back. She knew it was going 
to be rough, for she had quite a talk with one of the stewards, 
who told her it was quite rough on their homeward trip, and 
that settled it. I got her off the boat and up town as soon as 
I could. After she got looking in the windows a while her 
fear of sea sickness left her. 

Our friend Kelley at the Grand Hotel at Nice told us about 
a certain restaurant named Mistral’s in Marseilles, where a 
famous dish called something like “bouillabaise” was served. 
He said it was spoken of in Thackeray’s works, and of course, 
in order to be the “real thing” as tourists, we must have some 
of it. Not even knowing what it was, we hunted up Mistral’s 
and ordered “bouillabaise.” It was an assortment of fish and 
lobster, mixed with dough and vegetables and served with 
some kind of gravy. We were told it was delicious, but I can 
tell you it took a pretty good stomach to tackle it. I had been 


49 


on the wagon up to this time, but I ordered a bottle of wine to 
wash this dose down with. Of course, with the wine the “bou- 
illabaise” was not so awfully bad. 

The Marseilles Bourse or Chamber of Commerce is near 
Mistral’s. We went in, but the session was nearly over, so we 
did not see any particular excitement in the way of trading. 
Strolled up the plaza, killed a little more time, then took a cab 
back to the boat. Marseilles is a large commercial city, and 
the principal things of interest are her shipping docks, but 
after seeing the docks at Liverpool they appear as nothing. 

We were now about to leave gay France, for the time-being 
at least. I say “gay France,” for every city of any size in 
France seems to have an air of gayety about it. You can al¬ 
ways find something on the order of superficial. The women 
are gay and frivolous and fixed up to attract. The men are 
pretty much on the same order. I think ninety-five per cent, 
of the Frenchmen wear mustaches of some kind. The real 
stylish mustache is a little on the order of the German, but is 
twisted more on the end and turned back more to the nose. 
The men are rather small as a rule. Some one said that 
Napoleon took off an inch or so from the average size French¬ 
man on account of killing so many of the large men in his wars. 
I believe it is so, for they certainly appear small. The French 
are a good deal on the sensual order. You see more nude pic¬ 
tures in the French galleries than anywhere else in the world. 
Nearly all the show windows have nudes of some kind. 

Now we were on the steamer, steaming out through the 
harbor. It was a little rough and we felt it was just a slight 
taste of what was in store for us when we got well out in the 
sea, but we were agreeably disappointed. After we were out 
a while there was scarcely a ripple on the water, and we ate our 
dinner with as much comfort as if we had been in a hotel. We 
were placed at the head officer’s table and I sat right next to 


50 


him on his left. On the other side of the table were three 
bright looking American gentlemen. We warmed up to each 
other immediately and exchanged a few words back and forth. 
After dinner one of the three came up to me and introduced 
himself as Mr. Ade. He told me he had once been a newspaper 
reporter, but now was a play-writer, yet poor stupid I did not 
know anything about his fame, as when I go to a play I never 
think of the writer and hardly ever remember the play an hour 
after leaving the theater. Most everybody that I spoke to since 
knew of him as George Ade, the playwright, and knew all about 
the plays he wrote. Of course, after getting acquainted with 
Mr. Ade and finding out from others all about the plays he 
wrote, I made the best I could of the situation. One of the 
other gentlemen was a Mr. Kent. He was a very large land 
owner in Indiana and farmed it on an extensive scale. The 
other was a newspaper man whose name was Etten. Mr. 
Etten was a bright man who looked as though he could put 
vitriol or honey on the end of his pen when he so desired. 

There are always a great many Germans to be seen on the 
North German Lloyd steamers. There was a sort of demo¬ 
cratic air aboard the ship. In fact, sometimes one would think 
one was in a “Beer Stube’’ instead of being on a steamer. The 
first officer who sat at our table generally had a mug of beer 
with his lunch. It must have been a full quart, and when he 
took hold of the handle it was not with his thumb and finger, 
but his four fingers fitted well inside the handle. I think it 
would try the muscle of some of our dudes to hold this mug 
out straight. The captain of the Schleswig was a great big 
husky fellow weighing about two hundred eighty pounds, with 
a neck on him like a Spanish bull. There was not quite so 
much Kaiser Wilhelm about the Schleswig as about the Konig 
Albert; no Kaiser Wilhelm mustaches to be seen. 

The next morning when we got on deck we were passing 



The Bay of Naples 



A Neapolitan Conveyance 



The Farnese Bull 






















51 


the Island of Corsica, the birthplace of Napoleon; and on the 
other side were the Islands of Sardinia. We bought a couple 
of crazy novels at a book store in Marseilles and put in most 
of the day reading them. Everybody aboard the ship moved 
about in the same monotonous way as they generally do aboard 
ship. At about five o’clock in the evening some one cried out, 
“See the whale!” There was a rushing to the side of the vessel 
and those who' had field glasses had them levelled in the direc¬ 
tion of the alleged whale. After the excitement was over I 
got to talking to one of the stewards and he said it was what 
they call a “pot whale.’’ They are only about half the size of 
the whales that are to be seen in the Atlantic. It was pretty 
hard to find anybody that was dead sure they had even seen a 
“pot whale.” 

The sunset on this evening was beautiful, which is one of 
the things most people are looking for and admire aboard ship. 
The sky was a little clouded and the sun passed from one small 
cloud to another. As it did, it lit up the horizon in a grand 
blaze of glory. 

Thursday morning, February 15th, we arrived at Naples 
at about two o’clock. When the boat stopped there was a lot 
of tooting of whistles and dropping of the anchor, etc., which 
woke me. I got up and looked out of the window and saw 
Vesuvius with two large streams of lava running down her 
side. She had already begun to growl and prepare for her 
great disturbance which took place later on. Of course, after 
daybreak the red lava was not to be seen, but there was a great 
volume of smoke rushing out of the top of the mountain. 

At eight o’clock we left the steamer and went ashore, got 
a cab and drove through the old and poor part of Naples. The 
people were cooking their breakfast over small fires on the 
street. The goats were thick, and our driver told us they 
were driven up the stairs and into the different tenements and 


52 


milked. The people we saw in this district were the dirtiest, 
most wretched lot that we saw anywhere. The women, even 
young girls of sixteen and eighteen, were in rags and filth, 
with their hair hanging down over their faces. The boys 
looked as though you could plant peas and grow a good crop 
on their faces. We drove to an asylum for old men. There 
were about four hundred inmates in this institution. Back 
of the asylum is the catacombs. We explored a couple of tun¬ 
nels, or chambers, and saw a lot of old skulls and bones, and 
family vaults with some decoration on them, still fairly well 
preserved. My O. S. H. got tired and quit. I continued to 
explore another tunnel or so. The guide and myself ran on to 
a small marble shaft which he said was erected to the memory 
of some great man of olden times. It certainly was a work of 
art and reflected great credit on the artist as well as on the 
man in whose honor it was erected. 

From the catacombs we drove to the part of the city where 
we wished to find some good stores, as my O. S. H. was anx¬ 
ious to buy a birthday present for Irene. It was a block of 
stores with a walk about seventy-five feet wide and four hun¬ 
dred feet long, paved with tile. This walk was crossed about 
the center by another of the same width, but not quite so long. 
All of this walk was roofed over with glass. The stores 
fronted this court or walk. Vehicles of any kind were not al¬ 
lowed inside. The stores were four story, and it was quite a 
grand looking business place, certainly in great contrast with 
the miserable place through which we rode on our way to the 
catacombs. 

From here we drove to the public museum. We rushed 
through, taking a peep as we went along. There were quite 
a lot of grand statues and works of art that were taken from 
ruins of Pompeii showing that the people of those days were 
well up in that line of art. There was one piece of marble that 



Temple of Vesta 



Capuchin Cemetery 


























63 


was particularly fine. This group, I believe, was taken from 
the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla in Rome. It was a com¬ 
bination group, I think they call it the Farnese Bull, of the 
figures of four men, a large bull and a dog. The base is about 
ten feet square and the whole statue is said to have been cut 
out of one block of marble. If so, it must have taken a block 
of marble twelve feet by twelve feet by twenty feet. It cer¬ 
tainly is a great piece of work. Some statues were made of 
combination of silver and bronze, but the silver was almost 
entirely worn away on account of the age and effect of the at¬ 
mosphere. It would take days to look this museum over 
properly. We drove to the Cathedral and took a peek at that. 
As our time was exhausted we had our cab take us back to the 
boat. One thing I noticed particularly in the short visit to 
Naples was the poor little horses they used for the cabs and 
the showy way they harnessed them. Some of the harnesses 
and trappings were worth more than the horses. They seemed 
to have nickle or brass all over the horse. The bridles were 
made with a strap running around the horse’s nose, instead of a 
bit in his mouth. At each side was a projecting piece of metal 
to which the reins were hitched and the horse was guided in 
that way instead of with the bit. On each saddle there was 
quite a heavy metal ornament. In some there were figures 
of horses, others were mermaids, etc. The dray horses as well 
as the cab horses were of the under size and poor looking sort. 
On the whole, my first visit to Naples did not make a very 
good impression. 

On reaching the boat we met Mr. Trostel and his charming 
bride, who added so much pleasure to the trip on the Konig 
Albert, with her sunny disposition. Mr. Ade, the beau of the 
boat, while at Naples, bought a nice large bunch of violets, and 
with the sweetest kind of a smile, presented them to my O. S. 
H. It tickled me through and through to think my O. S. H. 


54 


had made an impression on the finest looking and cleverest man 
on the boat. I introduced Mr. Ade to Mr. and Mrs. Trostel. 
Mrs. Trostel related an incident in which Mr. Ade was a great 
benefactor. It seemed that some friend of hers in Chicago, who 
was about to spend an evening out, had packed his dress suit in 
a suit case and went to a club house to take a turkish bath. Her 
friend was a tall, slim young man. There was also a short, 
fleshy man taking a bath at the same time. The short man 
got through his bath first, picked up Mr. Slim man’s suit case 
and walks off. When Mr. Slim man examines the contents of 
his case he finds that the legs of the pants were six inches too 
short and the waist about five inches too wide. He is in a 
terrible dilemma and someone suggests that he call on Mr. 
Ade, who rooms in the club house over the bath. Ade's dimen¬ 
sions being about the same as his, Mr. Ade proves a friend in 
need, lends him his suit and he goes off happy. After the in¬ 
cident had been related we all had a good laugh and felt well 
acquainted. 

Three North German Lloyd steamers were anchored at 
Naples while we were there. One had just arrived from 
America, another was starting out, and the one we were on 
was heading for Alexandria. About sixty of the cabin pas¬ 
sengers from the steamer which had just arrived from America 
boarded our boat to make the trip with us. The steamer which 
was about to make the voyage to America was taking on a 
cargo of Italians. The vessel seemed to be black with them 
and they were still coming. All kinds of remarks were being 
made about their future in the United States; some said they 
would take a hand in shaping politics; others said that they 
would soon be in the fruit business, etc. The North German 
Lloyd seems to have what we call in the language of the day, 
“a cinch” in this Italian trade, carrying them both ways. They 
first carry them out and then after they get a little money bring 


55 


them back again, as most Italians after making a little money 
in the United States, return to Italy to spend it among their 
friends. 

We left Naples about twelve o’clock. The view of the bay 
from the steamer was very pretty. For an hour or so we were 
in sight of land. After lunch we moved about the steamer, 
speculating as to who our new friends were that boarded the 
boat at Naples. That evening after dark we saw a light appear 
in the distance and then die down. It acted a good deal like 
the lights on the light-houses, but on inquiring I was told it 
was Stromboli, an irregular volcano near Sicily. It was quite 
active at the time, I presume owing to the general disturbance 
going on in the region below T the surface of the earth, of which 
we know very little. After watching it for quite a while our 
peepers got tired, so we bid good-night to Stromboli and went 
to bed. 

That night my O. S. H., as usual, was acting watchman, 
and she told me the next morning that she saw a vessel passing 
at about i 130, and it appeared to be on fire, there was so much 
light aboard. It proved to be the Hohenzollern, which was 
returning from Egypt. It seems it was the custom on the 
ships to burn red fire as a salute when passing each other. 
Thanks to her good sense, however, she did not wake me up 
to see the fire. 

We must have been weather hoodoos, for at about five 
o’clock Friday evening, there came up quite a blow and the 
ship began to act unruly. My O. S. FI. put up a good fight 
and took her seat at the table for dinner, but before she got 
well started at her meal she was obliged to retreat to the deck 
in good order. I stuck it out and ate my dinner. The night 
was bad; the ship rolled and pitched all night long. The next 
morning, February 17th, my O. S. H. decided she would not 
leave her berth. I was not feeling any too happy myself. 


56 


Both of us were on the stool of repentance, calling ourselves 
all sorts of names for leaving our nice comfortable home. I 
went up on deck myself and moved about among the miserable 
ones, one of which was our friend Ade, who was not a very 
good sailor. He was sitting on a steamer chair wrapped up, 
with his head pulled down between his coat collar, too much 
disgusted to speak to anybody. While I was standing in front 
of him, hanging on to the rail an old gentleman of about 
seventy-five, with shaggy gray beard, whom we had not spoken 
to up to this time, came up and said, “Isn’t this rough sea beau¬ 
tiful ? It is grand ! It was so calm and monotonous yesterday 
it disgusted me.” It looked a little as though his speech was 
delivered for the benefit of our friend Ade, and Ade must have 
felt that way also, for he pushed his head out from between 
his collar and said, “Yes, I am afraid it will get calm and dis¬ 
gusting again to-day.” Along in the afternoon the wind went 
down and the sea also, yet I could not get my O. S. H. down 
to the dinner table. She was wrapped in her steamer wraps 
and nestled down in her big chair on the deck. I did not blame 
her much for wanting to stay there, so I arranged with the 
steward to bring her something nice and I went down and had 
a good square meal. We had a good night and both slept well. 

When we got up Sunday morning, February 18th, the sun 
was out and the day was ideal in every respect. Everybody 
moved about; some played deck billiards, others took snap¬ 
shots, etc. The storm affected the speed of the ship so that 
we were not able to land Sunday afternoon as we had hoped to. 
We got into Alexandria at about ten o’clock Sunday night and 
dropped anchor. 

The next morning we were up bright and early. Pulled 
into the dock at Alexandria at about eight o’clock. On the 
dock was an army of coffee colored individuals dressed up in 
all manner of styles; most of them wore red caps or fez, with 



Fellah carrying her child 



In Cairo 


















57 


s. black tassel from the top of it; others had on a sort of a 
turban, which they make by winding a long strip of cloth 
around their heads. Some had on loose pants, or what looked 
like a divided shirt drawn tight around their ankles; others 
wore loose gowns that looked a good deal like a long night 
shirt. A number wore what looked like a red sweater with 
“Cook’s” in big white letters across the breast. They were all 
held at bay on the dock until the officers were ready to allow 
them to go aboard. When they did so, they rushed aboard the 
ship, tearing around and jabbering about a dozen different lan¬ 
guages. Cook’s men dashed around yelling “Cook, Cook, 
Cook.” I collared one of them who carried our bags ashore. 
After a while I got our trunks on the backs of a couple of 
others. On the dock was a six foot fellow with a divided shirt 
who seemed to be the captain of Cook’s army. We got our 
trunks on a wagon, piled into a bus and went to the train 
which was to take us to Cairo. Then we had to wait for about 
one hour before the train started out. 

At nine o’clock we left for Cairo. The ride was through 
a level country, which, I believe is called the Nile Valley. There 
are a number of small villages along the road; the houses are 
built of mud, and near every village is a small cemetery. The 
cemeteries are odd looking. They seem to follow the style of 
the mausoleums, little structures above the ground. We were 
not riding more than half an hour or so when we saw the first 
camel. There were a couple of people in the compartment with 
us and every one said, “Oh, there is a camel!” The novelty of 
seeing a camel soon passed away, for it was not long until we 
saw trains of them. I counted as many as twenty in one train. 

Everything along the road was very interesting. We stood 
in the corridor of the car and looked out of the window at those 
novel sights. You would see a poor donkey trotting along 
with two great long-legged Arabs on his back, their feet almost 


I 


58 

touching the ground. At the stations were all kinds of people, 
the women with their faces veiled, which, of course, was a 
novel sight. They wore heavy black veils covering their faces 
from their eyes down. Over the center of the face, running up 
on the forehead, was a round brass colored piece of metal about 
one inch in diameter. The poorer class do not seem to observe 
this barbarous rule of veiling their faces as much as the well- 
to-do, at least most of those who were veiled were pretty well 
dressed. A number of them wore low shoes with one or two 
bracelets on their ankles. Another strange novel sight was to 
see a camel going along loaded with hay. It was fastened in 
some way on his back and as he moved along he looked like a 
moving hay stack bobbing up and down. 

The railroad ran along a kind of canal or branch of the 
Nile and men were getting water out of the canal on to the 
land for irrigating purposes. In some places a man stood 
working with a pail on the end of a long pole and a weight on 
the other end. He dipped the water in this way constantly. 
Others had a sort of round wooden cylinder with a screw or 
conveyor on the inside. One end of that stuck in the water and 
the other end rested on the land. They whirled the handle 
around which turned the conveyor on the inside and brought 
the water up. Others had a Buffalo ox hitched to a sweep 
going round, working some sort of a cog-wheel arrangement 
that brought up water. Speaking of Buffalo oxen, for such 
was the name given them by those we inquired of, they are 
the homeliest looking things one can imagine. They look a 
good deal like the musk ox. They are of a dirty mouse color, 
their horns run right back along the side of the neck and there 
is a hump between the shoulders. They were poorly fed and 
in every way looked miserable. The native farmer seemed to 
do most of his work with those poor old beasts. They were 
yoked eight feet apart. The yoke was fastened to their horns 





Drawing water from the Nile 



The Citadel at Cairo 





















59 


and seemed to be nothing more than a round piece of a stick 
about six inches in diameter. The plow is of wood with a 
steel point on the end. In fact they do not plow the ground, 
they simply root it up. This Nile Valley is so fertile and so 
rich that they seem to get good crops from it, no matter how 
they till it. One sees all kinds of teams in Egypt. I saw a 
camel and one of those oxen hitched together. In another 
case it was a camel and a donkey. 

In our compartment was a bride and groom, who continued 
to gaze into each other’s eyes and spoon all the way along. I 
don’t think they knew whether they were in Egypt or some 
other part of the world. Guess they were in a land of their 
own. 

We arrived at Cairo on Saturday at noon. We were anx¬ 
ious to put up at the Shepard Hotel on account of its location, 
also because it is the resort for Americans, but we were dis¬ 
appointed, for every room was taken. We went to the Savoy, 
a first-class hotel and in a general way superior to the Shepard, 
but it was a little off the main street and on that account was 
not as well located for seeing people pass up and down, which is 
always interesting in Cairo. A young native who wanted to 
act as guide met us at the station and tagged on to us until we 
got to the hotel. He said he was a Mohammedan and prayed 
six times a day, and that the other fellows around were Jews, 
and on account of his religion he did not get as much to do as 
he thought he should. My O. S. H., always ready to believe 
a hard luck story, urged me to engage him, which I did. His 
name sounded so much like Sullivan that I called him by that 
name. 

After lunch we started out sight-seeing. Our first visit 
was to the citadel, which stands on a very high point overlook¬ 
ing the city. Our friend Sullivan had some big story to tell 
about a lot of Mohammedans that were put to death there. At 


60 


this same place stands the principal mosque of Cairo. They 
were praying inside so we were obliged to wait a while before 
we could enter. When we did enter we were obliged to put on 
large canvas covers over our shoes. First we entered what 
was known as the courtyard. In the center of this yard is a 
large fountain with a number of streams of water running 
from it. The followers of Mohammed stop at this fountain to 
wash their feet before entering the mosque to pray. This part 
of the Mohammedan religion is certainly commendable, and 
it is too bad that Christians do not also have some rule of faith 
in that line. There were a couple of old chaps giving their 
feet a good bath at the time we entered. The dimensions of 
the inside of the mosque are about 300 by 250 feet with a dome 
in the center about 150 feet high, supported by four square 
columns twelve feet by twelve feet. The whole inside is 
veneered with alabaster marble, highly polished, presenting a 
very fine appearance. The floor is covered with costly rugs. 
There was no attempt at frescoing or decorating, with the ex¬ 
ception of a few stained glass windows. There are a number 
of very expensive chandeliers, and on the whole the interior 
was a very inviting place. A few of Mohammed’s followers 
were praying in the church when we were there. They always 
remove their shoes when they enter the mosque and put them in 
a box that is there for that purpose. As far as praying goes, 
they beat any Christian I ever saw at it. They prostrate them¬ 
selves to the floor, rock back and forth, go through all sorts of 
emotional freaks. As we went out of the mosque down 
through the yard, we passed a small barracks where there were 
a number of John Bull’s red coats. Our guide Sullivan sug¬ 
gested that we see Joseph’s well, and we were foolish enough to 
do so. Had to go down a long, dark, narrow passageway, 
with candles in our hands. The well was at the bottom of a 
shaft which ran down from the citadel. On returning we had 



Tillers of the Soil 



Mohammedans at Prayer 
















61 


to be pulled up by some of our coffee-colored friends, which, 
of course, meant a piaster or two, and helped to swell Sullivan’s 
bill when I came to settle with him. 

Then we drove to the tombs of some of the Pashas, which 
were also in a mosque. Here again we had to put canvas over 
our shoes, so as not to desecrate the sacred place. One of the 
Pashas must have been quite a fellow. His wife, son and 
daughter were buried with him. There was a bed alongside of 
the tomb, silver table, writing desk, books, etc., etc. 

From the tombs we drove to what is called the Bazaars, 
which is a dignified name for a lot of little pokes of shops. 
The Bazaars are in a narrow street not more than fifteen feet 
or so in width. This street is lined with little shops about 
eight feet by twelve feet. Running off from this street are 
little narrow passageways, also full of shops. Each shop¬ 
keeper seemed to have two or three runners on the street, howl¬ 
ing, jabbering and soliciting patronage. There were Arabs, 
Egyptians, Soudanese and every tribe under the sun, doing 
business in those holes. As we drove along through this street 
our cabby kept up a yell and continually cracked his whip. It 
seemed marvelous that he was able to get through the crowd 
without running over some of them. There were carriages, 
donkeys, camels and people, as thick as flies. We got out of 
the cab, purchased an Egyptian veil for my O. S. H., which I 
thought she might wear while in Cairo, but like the spoiled 
American women, she refused to do so. I also bought a pair 
of Cinderella slippers to take home, but fear that I wasted my 
money for most of our family have a pretty good under¬ 
standing. 

Next morning, we took an electric car to the Pyramids and 
old Sphinx. The ride out was very interesting. There was 
a row of large tamarisk trees on each of the boulevards. Those 
trees looked a good deal like our old locust trees. The foliage 


62 


and bark have the very same appearance. The distance from 
our hotel to the Pyramids was about five miles. When we got 
there we engaged a couple of camels and rode to where old 
Sphinx is located, and like every globe trotter, were photo¬ 
graphed. We dismounted from our “steeds,” went down into 
the temple of the Sphinx, which I believe was a place of wor¬ 
ship by the pagans, old Sphinx being their God. In this temple 
are a lot of chambers and tombs. What struck me most was 
the size of the blocks of granite that were used in building the 
walls. Some of the blocks would make a carload for one of 
our cars in this country. It showed that they must have had 
great derricks or means of handling large weights in those days, 
fully as well as we have now. After bobbing around on our 
camels Cleopatra and myself went to the Mena House, a very 
nice hotel, where we took lunch, after which we sat on the 
porch and feasted our eyes on the sandy desert, pyramids and 
Sphinx. The pyramids are nothing more than a great big pile 
of stone, about five hundred feet square at the base and probably 
as high, or a little higher, running up to a sharp point. There 
are a number of tombs inside of them, but we thought we would 
pass on the tomb question. A great many people think the 
proper thing to do is to climb the pyramids. This we also 
thought we had better pass. We then went out to take our 
tram back to the city, but were obliged to wait a few minutes 
for it to start, and while waiting had all kinds of'fun with the 
youngsters, all wanting to be photographed. Of course back- 
sheeh was to follow. 

The coffee-colored fellows who acted as waiters in the hotel 
were quite picturesque; wore white gowns that covered them 
to their heels, with a red sash around their waist and red cap 
or fez, which they wore at all times on their heads. I noticed 
quite a few of them were branded on the cheek. One fellow 
had a plain letter “E.” I asked the head waiter, who spoke 



My O. S. H. and “Cookoo” 



“Cookoo 


“Sullivan 





















63 


English, what the cause of it was. He said that when they 
were young and taken sick, their doctor burned them on the 
cheek to preserve their eyesight. There is a great deal of eye 
trouble in Egypt, caused, I presume, from the glaring sun and 
no protection for the eyes, as most of them wear caps without 
peaks. I think there is another reason. Obeying the rules of 
their religion, they are very considerate of all animals and 
living things. They do not harm the fly, and therefore Mr. 
Fly can feast on children’s eyes without being disturbed, and 
this, in a measure, probably accounts for the eye trouble as 
well as the glaring sun. A number of people, also, are tat¬ 
tooed. They run in tribes; each tribe has a certain brand or 
tattoo mark on their arms. 

After leaving the pyramids we went to the museum. There 
we saw a lot of figures cut out of granite, representing 
kings; also a number of mummies, taken from the different 
tombs in Egypt, some of them said to be two thousand years 
to four thousand years B. C. and still in a very fine state of 
preservation. Tramped about the museum, then took a cab 
and rode through old Cairo, as it is called. It is the poor part 
of the town; the people are as thick as flies. They were in 
little shops or holes, some of them looked like dog kennels. 
All kinds of trade was represented and all kinds of dirt and 
smells. I said to my O. S. H. that it seemed we were bound to 
hunt up all the dirt there was to be seen wherever we went. 
We went back to the hotel and felt that we had put in a strenu¬ 
ous day. 

Thursday we decided to loaf. We went to Cook’s and got 
the mail, always a pleasant experience. Our nieces, Misses 
Mary and Clara of Michael Cudahy’s family, and Bessie and 
Julia of John Cudahy’s family, from Chicago, were also in 
Egypt. When we arrived at Cairo we were told they had 
gone up the Nile. While at Cook’s I inquired about them 


64 


again and was told they had just returned from their trip and 
were stopping at the Ghezira Palace Hotel. We took a cab 
and drove over and had lunch together. It was a very pleasant 
meeting as each one had his own experiences to relate, and in 
this way we spent a very pleasant afternoon. My O. S. H. and 
I had decided to visit the temples and tombs at Luxor on the 
Nile. On that account we were obliged to cut our visit short. 
We took a train at six thirty and got a very comfortable sleep¬ 
ing compartment. The train was quite a luxurious affair for 
that part of the world; had a dining car, in which we took our 
dinner. After reading the Paris edition of the New York 
Herald, we went to bed and had a fairly good night. 

Arrived at Luxor at eighty forty-five next morning. En¬ 
gaged a guide who gave his name as Cookoo Alhamad. He 
did a good deal of talking and was slow to get started. I spoke 
sharply—told him to stop talking and get to doing something. 
Cookoo jumped about two feet high and from that on he was 
business. We took a look at the old time temple in Luxor, 
which has been unearthed in recent years. Cookoo told us that 
he owned and lived in a small cottage which stood on the top 
of the temple, as the temple was all covered with earth. He 
said he sold his house for something like seven hundred dollars 
to the parties doing the excavating. It was a warm day and 
the flies were awfully thick around the river, which we were 
about to cross, so much so, that I had Cookoo get me a veil, 
which I wrapped around my head and face to protect me from 
the flies. Lying in the river was one of Cook’s excursion 
boats. The crew, a lot of native Mohammedans, were wash¬ 
ing the deck and singing “Ala, Ala,” which we were told they 
always do when at work, believing that “Allah,” their God, 
makes their work lighter when they call upon him. 

We crossed the Nile in a good sized rowboat, rowed by a 
couple of sturdy natives, and on reaching the other side of the 


65 


river we were met by a crowd of natives, about twenty-five or 
thirty in number, and as many donkeys. All were shouting 
and jabbering, as each one was anxious to be employed. Cookoo 
selected three donkeys and four or five natives to run along¬ 
side. He mounted one of them and my O. S. H. and I the 
others and all started for a ride to the Tombs of the Kings. 
First crossed about one and one-half miles of dry sand, which 
had been washed up by the Nile. The day was hot and the 
sand reflected the heat. This and the flies made the ride any¬ 
thing but pleasant, but after getting a short distance away 
from the river we were not troubled any more with flies. 
Cookoo, like a general in the field, rode ahead of us and gave 
orders to his squad of natives who were trotting on behind. 

After a mile and a half ride over the sand we got into a 
valley that was all stone. The road we took was stone, with 
stone hills on each side. Cookoo said it was the Valley of the 
Kings; it twisted in and out; some places we had a nice breeze 
and in others it was melting hot. We reached the tombs after 
riding altogether about six miles. We dismounted and when 
I stood on my feet I could scarcely move, I was so stiff. I felt 
that I would need quite a supply of Pond’s extract before go¬ 
ing to bed that night, as it was the first time I had sat on an 
animal’s back since I was a boy. Did not say a word about 
my soreness, for my O. S. H. was giving me the jolly all the 
way out. I felt certain that she was in about the same condi¬ 
tion, but would not let on. It was a case of jolly on both 
sides. 

We started to enter one of the tombs, but were informed 
that the Duchess of Argyle, King Edward’s sister, was inside 
and that no one else could enter while she was there. Our 
American blood was up, and I think my O. S. H. “swore to 
herself.” We entered a couple of the other tombs. By that 
time Her Royal Highness had left the first one and we visited 


66 


that. There are a number of those tombs, but after seeing 
the principal ones we thought we would pass on the others. 
They are something like caves, which those pagan kings had 
cut into a solid hill of rock or quarry. They were to be their 
own burial place and I believe the idea was that the general 
public was not to know where they were buried. The tombs 
consisted of a number of hallways and chambers. In some 
rooms at one time their treasures and household effects were 
stored. The largest chamber and most highly decorated was 
for the remains of the kings and those of their families. In 
some places the face of the rock w r as rubbed down smooth and 
polished, with hieroglyphics cut into the rocks, telling the story 
of the king’s great deeds during his reign. On the wall of 
one of the chambers is a life sized figure of a bull, the horns 
were perfect in shape and very highly polished, probably caused 
by people rubbing them with their hands. I presume this rep¬ 
resented the sacred bull. Being in my line of business, it in¬ 
terested me more than any of the others. The serpent, or 
snake, also numbers among their figures; so does the river 
Nile. The Nile is shown with a boat on it and galley slaves 
rowing. In some places the walls are made smooth with plaster 
and figures were painted on the surface, the coloring of which 
was almost in perfect state of preservation. I presume this 
was owing to the fact that the atmosphere changes but very 
little, if any, dowm in those places. We saw the remains of 
one of the kings, I think one of the Rameses. He was lying 
on his back in one of the tombs, his face turned up to an elec¬ 
tric light, shining down on it. Little he thought when he had 
this chamber made, that such would have been the case. Those 
tombs, as I stated, were quite a distance down and the air in¬ 
side was anything but invigorating, so after tramping around 
until we were about exhausted, we climbed out and mounted 
our “fiery steeds.” Cookoo took a snap-shot of us, and we 



The Author 



Great Temple at Karnac 












67 


started on our return trip. On the way we stopped at a res¬ 
taurant or lunch-house. There was a Cook’s party just ahead 
of us at the restaurant and the coffee-colored chaps were out 
in full force. On one side of the hill not far from this res¬ 
taurant is the burial place of ordinary individuals. This has 
also been unearthed by curiosity seekers of late years. A num¬ 
ber of the brown kids had portions of the dead that had been 
unearthed. One lad had a human head cut from some poor 
old stiff, which he was offering for sale as King Raineses’ 
head. Others had fingers, hands, etc. 

Cookoo was anxious that we should see everything there 
was to be seen, so he took us a roundabout way back. They 
were still excavating and we saw a portion of an old temple 
sticking out of the ground. Continued on our donkeys until 
we reached the Nile, a very tired pair. After seating our¬ 
selves in the boat, my O. S. H. took off her shoes and stockings 
and let her feet hang over the side of the boat into the water 
of the Nile. She said she felt that she had done what most 
women tourists had not done, bathed her feet in the Nile. The 
day was hot, especially crossing the sand and between the 
rocky hills. In all we had ridden about fifteen miles; but there 
was still more to do and we would not give up until we had 
seen all; so we took a carriage and off we went to the temple of 
Karnak, an old temple that covered about ten acres of ground. 
In the part of the temple remaining intact were one hundred 
and thirty stone columns. They are round, about twelve feet 
in diameter and about sixty feet high. There was no style of 
architecture to them, simply ran up straight until the top was 
reached. On the top was a cap and girder. There are 
two obelisks, one of them ninety-five feet high and the 
other about seventy-five feet, and any number of Sphinxes, all 
more or less disfigured; also a couple of large gateways, still 
intact. The rest of the temple is a lot of stone, tumbled into 


68 


heaps. It is thought that the tumbling down of this temple 
was caused by an earthquake. They make use of the money 
they receive from the tourists to rebuild the temples and when 
we were there, there was quite a gang of men at work replac¬ 
ing the stone and endeavoring to make it look as it originally 
did. We saw a gang of men hauling a large stone on a flat 
car, some were pulling, others pushing, all singing “Ala." It 
seemed to be something on the order of a litany; one would 
recite something and all the others answered in chorus. The 
Mohammedans seem to be the most sincere and demonstrative 
of all religious people. As we drove along the road we saw 
quite a few of them kneeling and praying. 

It was near to sundown when we got through with Karnak, 
so we boarded our cab and started for the train. When we 
reached the railroad station my O. S. H. was pretty well used 
up, but she was still in the ring. I settled with Cookoo and 
we left on our return trip to Cairo. It was a hard day’s work. 
We were told afterward that we had accomplished as much in 
one day as others had done in a week. We had a fairly good 
night’s rest and arrived in Cairo in the morning fresh and ready 
for another’s day’s work. 

Luxor and vicinity, they told us, at the time the Rameses 
and other kings held sway, was the great city of Thebes. It 
was enclosed in a stone wall, with a number of gates and the 
gate posts on each side of those gates were colossal sphinxes. 
A couple of those gate posts still remain. We passed by them 
on our return from the tombs of the kings. The road from 
Luxor to Karnak was in those days a beautiful boulevard with 
a solid row of sphinxes on one side of the drive. Quite a num¬ 
ber of them still remained standing, but in somewhat damaged 
condition. Their goatees, or chin whiskers, are missing from 
a number of them. The ground in the vicinity of the tombs 
of the kings must have been a large cemetery, for they can go 


69 


out there and dig up a skull or shin bone most anywhere they 
put in a shovel or a spade. The skulls are offered to tourists 
all the way from five cents up to a dollar as the skull of one of 
the kings. 

Saturday morning we were pretty well used up, and as we 
had about exhausted what there was to be seen, we rested part 
of the day, packed our trunks and got ready to leave for Jeru¬ 
salem. Cairo is certainly a novel place to visit. You see all 
kinds of life; the Arab and his camel, the same as he was two 
or three thousand years ago, and side of him you see the twen¬ 
tieth century automobile buzzing by with all its style and lux¬ 
ury. Yet Egypt is progressing. A great deal of its progress 
is due to the staple government given them by John Bull. The 
price of everything in the way of conveyance is fixed by the 
government, so there is no chance of overcharge for guides, 
cabs, donkeys, camels, etc. Of course they hold out their 
hands, make pitiable faces and pull a little more backshish out 
of you if you are tender-hearted, but there is no such thing as 
cheating you. The natives there are loud in their praise of 
the English rule. They say that before England took posses¬ 
sion the poor people were practically slaves. The taxation on 
the poorer class has been shifted to the wealthier, and things 
have been evened up very much to the welfare of the country. 
British soldiers are stationed in different places and the influ¬ 
ence of the red coats seems to be very healthy. The air of 
improvement and progress seems to shows itself so plainly that 
one who visits the country feels like investing, yet he soon gets 
over that when he thinks that everything that comes from the 
land is through irrigation. 

As we were riding into Luxor, I noticed what looked like 
pens out in the fields (enclosures made with bamboo). I asked 
our dining car conductor (who was a German and spoke good 
English) what they were. He said they were places for people 


70 


to live in. I asked “What do they do when it rains?" and he 
replied, “It practically never rains here. We had a rain this 
spring and the people were so frightened they thought the 
world was coming to an end.” This probably was a little over¬ 
drawn, yet it illustrates conditions. There was a ball given at 
the Savoy Hotel the last night we were there and its patrons 
were principally John Bull’s officers. They were dressed in 
all manner of styles, some wore red jackets, some jackets with 
gold trimmings, most all had stripes down their pantaloons, 
and some wore spurs. There was one Arab among the crowd 
who was quite a bright looking fellow, dressed in evening 
clothes, yet he wore his red cap or fez all evening. 

There must be some superstition about the cap, or it may 
be in their religion, for they wear them at all times. We went 
to church on Sunday and half a dozen Arabs wore their red 
caps all during the service. The church was small, but it was 
well filled and looked more like religion than any place that we 
had seen since leaving home. It showed that competition was 
the life of religion as well as it is of trade. The churches were 
empty in Catholic Spain, yet here, where there are all classes, 
this little church was well patronized. The Arabs, or whatever 
they are, that are the chief population of Egypt, seem to be a 
pretty progressive kind of people. The motormen and con¬ 
ductors on the electric cars were bright and civil; the police 
officers looked like intelligent men, and waiters in hotels looked 
like likely fellows. They are learning the English language 
very fast and it will not be many years when it will be pretty 
generally spoken. No matter how they may change their lan¬ 
guage, they are true to the Mohammedan religion. Cookoo 
at Luxor spoke very good English and said he learned it in the 
American Mission schools. In fact, most all of them tell you 
that is where they learn their English. Cookoo was a good 
Mohammedan and said he prayed five times a day, and was 






Port Said 



71 


always on the wagon. Although he was entitled to more than 
one wife he had but one, as he said that one was all he could 
afford to take care of. He told us he had never been to Mecca, 
but intended to go there as soon as he could raise the money 
and spare the time. When we engaged Cookoo, in order to 
convince us that he was a competent guide, he pulled out a 
number of testimonial letters that he had received from those 
who had employed him. The first one he handed me was a 
letter from our grand old man of Milwaukee, Mr. Frederick 
Layton, signed by himself and Mr. Raab, who had just made 
the trip about two weeks prior to our visit. After coming 
home from church Sunday morning, I paid my bill at the hotel 
and we took the train at eleven o’clock for Port Said, where we 
were to board the boat for Jaffa. In the compartment with us 
were a couple of spinsters. It did not take long to learn that 
they were of Hibernian descent and were Catholic like our¬ 
selves. They had a brother who was a Bishop, and, of course, 
we heard a good deal about him. The ride to Port Said was 
rather uninteresting, as a good deal of it was through a marshy, 
level country. We rode along the Suez Canal for about eighty 
miles and finally arrived at Port Said. There we met the same 
howling, jabbering mob of porters that we did when arriving at 
Alexandria. No matter how much one tried to control one’s 
self, those fellows get you a little disturbed. We took a ’bus 
from the train to the steamship dock where we were obliged to 
have our passports signed. After that was over w*e went out 
in row boats to board the steamship. There was quite a big 
crowd and any amount of disturbance on the boat. Some 
people who presumed they had secured rooms found them oc¬ 
cupied by others and a great many had to put in the night on 
chairs and lounges. I was fortunate enough to get what they 
called a first-class room. The berths were just about wide 
enough for one to wedge into. The mattress and pillow, I 


72 


think, were made of cotton. Anyhow, they were as hard as 
they could be, yet I slept fairly well in my box. Presume it 
was because I was obliged to lie perfectly still on my back. 

At about seven o’clock the next morning we arrived at 
Jaffa. Here again was the same tribe of Arabs to deal with. 
We anchored out about a mile from shore and were taken 
ashore in large row boats rowed by the coffee-colored gentle¬ 
men, all singing “Ala, Ala.” There was a ship load of Russian 
people making a religious pilgrimage to Jerusalem. They were 
taken ashore at the same time the tourists were. We landed 
at one dock and they at another. The tourists’ hand bags had 
all been placed together in one pile and we were being marched 
through a narrow street to the hotel. Through some mis¬ 
management the Russian pilgrims were being marched in the 
opposite direction at the same time. They came tearing along 
and as they had just one object in mind they did not stop for 
anybody. Our crowd was brushed aside while they marched 
right on. They were not any too clean a looking lot. My 
O. S. H., whose mind had been wrought up pretty well on the 
dirt question, was afraid of her life that she would get a mi¬ 
crobe or something else as they brushed by us. After a while 
we managed to reach Cook’s hotel. After registering, each 
party was assigned a guide. Our guide said his name was 
Alija. I asked him if he was Alija the First, and he said no, 
the Second. We started off in a cab to do Jaffa. Our first 
visit was to the house of Simon the Tanner, where St. Peter 
was said to have visited for several days and where he was also 
said to have had one of his visions. There was an old well out 
in the back yard encased with lime stone and had an old-fash¬ 
ioned bucket with a rope attached to it that ran through a 
wheel above. Passing up and down from this and other ropes 
that had been used, made a groove in one of the stones nearly 
two inches deep. 



At Jaffa 



House of Simon the Tanner 


















73 


After leaving Simon the Tanner’s we called at Miss Ar¬ 
nold’s school. She was an old Scotch lady, probably seventy- 
five years old, who had spent her life as an educator. The 
school did not amount to much in the way of pupils, there not 
being more than fifteen or twenty altogether. The person who 
opened the door for us was supposed to be a woman, yet she 
had a beard like a man. We were shown in the different rooms 
and the young Arabs recited some little pieces in English for 
us. We visited a few historical places, drove through a couple 
of orange groves and back to the hotel. Jaffa was the first 
taste of Palestine, and certainly the impression was not very 
enticing. 

Today is Tuesday, June 6. I have just read our President’s 
commissioners report of the investigation of the Chicago 
packing houses, and it was so nauseating that I do not know 
anything better to compare Jaffa to than to this report. The 
dirty old Bedouins were there with their bare legs and bare 
feet, dirty camels and dirty everything. 

After lunch we all boarded a train for Jerusalem. We were 
put in a compartment a little different from the usual com¬ 
partment, for it ran lengthwise in the car with the seat running- 
length ways on each side. Some one called out my name, and 
after answering to it a gentleman near by said to me, ‘‘Did I 
understand your name is Cudahy?” I said “Yes, sir.” He 
then introduced himself as Mr. Whiting from Menasha; also 
introduced his wife, Mr. Howard and Mr. Van Nortwick and 
their wives, all paper mill men of Menasha. Each party had 
their guides and on the way to Jerusalem each guide tried to 
make himself prominent by pointing out different places of 
interest, and different spots recorded in the Scripture too 
numerous to mention were pointed out as we rode along. The 
ride for a short distance was through the fertile plain of 
Sharon. We then got into a barren, desolate country, not a 


74 


thing to be seen except a few goats now and then. Arrived at 
Jerusalem at five o’clock in the evening and after getting our 
room went out for a walk. As we strolled along we entered a 
Greek church. When we were about to leave the church, a 
priest met us at the door and poured some water on our arms, 
which seemed to be the custom in those churches. Went back 
to the hotel and had a fairly good dinner. Our room, which 
was first-class, was an agreeable surprise to my O. S. H., who 
had been listening to people tell her stories about Jerusalem, 
and had gotten into such a state of mind that she was actually 
afraid to go inside the gates of the city. 

Next morning we visited the church of the Holy Sepul¬ 
chre, a large building, in the heart of the city. The interior of 
the Holy Sepulchre is a good deal like a department store, 
where the different branches of business are represented, only 
in this case it is the different religions that are represented. 
The first thing you see after entering the building is what is 
called the Stone of Unction. It is a stone slab on which it is 
said Christ was laid after having been taken down from the 
cross. There is a sort of frame work built over the slab with 
a cross timber running lengthwise and on this timber are a 
number of lamps, placed there by the different religious sects 
in the church. Those lamps are kept continually burning, each 
sect taking their turn in replacing and taking care of them. To 
the left of this stone is a spot which is marked with a wire 
frame where the women waited for Christ. After leaving this 
spot we entered the body of the church, in the center of which 
is the Tomb of Christ. There is a small structure or chapel 
about fourteen feet by eighteen feet and running up about six¬ 
teen feet, which encloses the tomb. This chapel is called the 
Chapel of the Ascension. Here again the different religious 
sects seem to work jointly in keeping a number of lamps, also 
decorating one end of this little chapel; the portion which con- 




Jerusalem 



Church of the Holy Sepulchre—Interior 


Church of the Holy Sepulchre 














































75 


tains the tomb is entered through a narrow door. There is 
not room for more than three persons at a time inside this 
room. It is in charge of the priests of the Greek church, one 
of them being constantly in attendance. It is the custom for 
people who visit the tomb to prostrate themselves and kiss the 
slab. We both entered and went through the formality, but 
the looks of the people who entered just ahead of us deterred 
us from giving it the real kiss, for we did not want to bring 
home a Jerusalem microbe. People from all parts of the world 
visit this tomb daily, all colors and creeds. The Russians are 
the most numerous. They are very strong for the kissing act. 

We entered the Greek Chapel connected with the Chapel 
of Ascension. It is the largest in the building, its dimensions 
about forty feet by sixty feet. In the center is a hall which 
they tell you is the center of the earth. Probably they mean 
from a religious standpoint. 

We next visited the Catholic Chapel of the Apparition, 
which contains a part of the pillar of the scourging. It is en¬ 
cased inside of a round barrel or drum. There is a hole cut 
through this into which people poke a stick and touch the pillar. 
The Greeks and all creeds seem to patronize the pillar alike. 
This chapel is about thirty feet by forty feet and very nicely 
decorated. 

We climbed up the stairs to what is called Golgotha or Mt. 
Calvary. This is a combination chapel. The Greeks use one 
side and the Roman Catholics the other, and like everything 
else in Jerusalem, the Greeks have the biggest end of it. Here 
was pointed out the socket in the rock in which the foot of the 
cross was supposed to have been placed. This socket was the 
dividing line between the two altars. Both the Catholic and 
Greek altars were very nicely illuminated and decorated. 

Throughout the interior of the Holy Sepulchre are a num¬ 
ber of chapels for the Assyrians, Coptics and several others, 


76 


and as it was about the beginning of Lent, there were quite a 
number of them assembling at the Holy Sepulchre. No mat¬ 
ter how those people differ in their form of worship, they all 
seem to have the one object in view, to worship the one Divine 
Christ and revere and treat sacred the spots which were asso¬ 
ciated with His death. It was quite interesting to stand about 
and see the people rushing with fixed faces as though inspired 
by religious thoughts. The Russians were the most numerous, 
and if you happened to be in their way they would knock you 
over and trample on you, as they seemed to be oblivious of 
everything about them. I do not like to scoff or make light of 
anyone’s religion, yet those Russian people were a little too 
much for me. I think one would be justified in calling them 
fanatics and their religion more or less superstition. 

The Russian men and women were dressed pretty much 
alike, both wore boots, and the men’s hair was long. Their 
coats went down to their heels and if it were not for the beards 
the men wore, you could not tell them apart. The women’s 
faces looked a good deal like the sawdust dolls that we give 
children at Christmas time, where the face is made with pen or 
pencil. There were a number of black people among the wor¬ 
shippers at the Holy Sepulchre. I saw a couple who were 
dressed like priests with long black gowns and two-story caps, 
such as the Greek priests wore. They came sauntering along 
up to the Holy Sepulchre, prostrated themselves outside 
and kissed the floor. After walking a few steps they kiss the 
floor again and continue doing so until they enter the room 
containing the tomb. The priests of the Greek church are 
about as numerous in Jerusalem as the Catholic priests are 
in Spain. They have churches and monasteries everywhere. 
It would seem that all Russians who can afford it go to Jeru¬ 
salem some time during their lives to prepare themselves for 
the other side of the river, and if there is any merit in blind 



Russian Priest 





Bethlehem—Christmas Day 











































77 


faith they are pretty sure to get a through ticket. The day 
was rainy, yet we took a cab and drove to Bethlehem, the City 
of David, which is about three miles from Jerusalem. On the 
way we passed David’s Well and Rachael’s Tomb, which au¬ 
thorities say are the real things. 

When we arrived at Bethlehem we entered the Church of 
the Nativity, owned and controlled by the Greek church. The 
entrance was through a small hole and we were obliged to stoop 
down and crawl through. Some say this accounts for the ex¬ 
pression “the rich man and the eye of the needle.” A small 
portion of this church is occupied by the Armenians. They 
have an altar and a piece of carpet on the floor, which desig¬ 
nates the portion that they are to occupy. In the basement of 
the main church is the Chapel of the Nativity, controlled by the 
Roman Catholics. This is supposed to be the spot where 
Christ was born. The place is marked with a piece of brass in 
the form of a star. Lights are kept continually burning here. 
Nearby is another chapel, the Chapel of the Manger. I think 
this is also controlled by the Catholics. The main building is 
on the department plan and a good deal the same as the Holy 
Sepulchre. A few years ago the different sects had quite a 
fight as to where each one’s boundary line began and ended. 
A number of people were badly injured, so that now the Tur¬ 
kish government keeps a number of soldiers stationed about in 
the church to keep them from fighting. It seemed quite odd 
to see soldiers standing around in a church. I rather pitied 
the poor fellows, as they were not allowed to walk or talk, 
only stand about like statues. 

After finishing this church we went into a new church 
which stands alongside of the main building. This is also 
called the Church of the Nativity and is owned and controlled 
by the Roman Catholics. Service was going on in this church 
and also in the Greek church next to it. Neither of them was 


78 


very well patronized and it seemed a little bit odd to hear the 
service gone through with without an audience. We went out¬ 
side and took a look at the hills near by, where the shepherds 
herded their sheep on that memorable morning. 

Pearl cutting is quite an industry in Bethlehem. We vis¬ 
ited some of the shops where boys, men and women were at 
work with small tools cutting the pearls; then went into one 
of the stores and bought a few trinkets. Each one of those 
stores keeps a man or two on the street and if there is a stranger 
anywhere in sight they swarm about him, soliciting patronage. 

The women in Bethlehem 1 dress different from those in 
Jerusalem. They wear a white covering, which is a sort of 
combination bonnet and waist. I succeeded in getting one of 
them to stand for me while I took her picture. It was drawing 
near the close of the day, so we drove back to the hotel. 

Early the next morning we arose and, with a number of 
others, went by carriage to Jericho. The drive part of the 
way was through the Valley of Jehosaphat. The country 
along was very hilly and we were gradually descending, for it 
is said that Jericho is some thousands of feet below Jerusalem. 
We passed several spots that are quoted in history, among them 
the Apostles’ Fountain, the house of the Good Samaritan, the 
spot where the raven fed Elijah, etc., etc. After arriving in 
Jericho we alighted and took a drink from Elijah’s Fountain 
and had lunch at a nice clean little hotel called the Belleview 
House. After lunch we drove to the River Jordan. My O. 
S. H. had a boat ride on the river. We filled a couple of bot¬ 
tles with the water and started for the Dead Sea. The road 
was rough and our driver uncivilized. My O. S. H. did con¬ 
siderable praying, thinking every moment that she would be 
dashed into eternity. After pitching about and nearly cap¬ 
sizing several times, we arrived at the Dead Sea. I tasted 
some of the water. It seemed salty and bitter. I think the 





Workers in Mother-of-Pearl 


On the Jordan 


The Dead Sea 




















79 


bitter taste was caused by alkali, for the whole country around 
seemed to be saturated with alkali. After gathering pebbles 
on the beach and poking about for a while, we entered our cab 
and went back to the hotel at Jericho. This procession of tour¬ 
ists in carriages was quite a sight, especially the horses and 
drivers. The horses were rather of the mustang order, small 
and scrunty looking, and the drivers were a good deal like a 
lot of savages of all colors. They whipped the horses and 
yelled all the time. I reasoned out their cause for doing so 
was that they were afraid to let the horses rest or go slow for 
fear they would balk and they could not start them again, so 
they kept them on the jump while there was any wind left 
in them. 

We stayed over night at Jericho and left the next morning 
for Jerusalem. Among others in our party was a princess, 
also a duke I believe. They were either good manipulators or 
else the people had a certain adoration for them, for they got 
the best of everything wherever they went. On our way back 
we stopped at the House of the Good Samaritan, where we 
took lunch. While there I got acquainted with a young Do¬ 
minican priest, a very nice gentlemanly looking man, by the 
name of Beaude. He had a couple of D’s attached to his name. 
He said he was something of a writer and was preparing mat¬ 
ter for a “New Life of Christ,” also a book which would be 
entitled “His Impression of Jerusalem.” I gave him my ad¬ 
dress and he promised to send me one of his books when they 
were out. 

One of the exciting events of the day was the overturning 
of one of the carriages. The occupants, however, with the ex¬ 
ception of being badly scared, escaped unhurt. The way back 
to Jerusalem was very much up hill and the travelers, especially 
the men folks, were obliged to get out and foot it up some of 
those steep hills, in order to relieve the horses. With one of 


80 


the parties was a German Austrian, acting as courier, who 
thought he knew the country so well that he attempted to take 
a couple of old men cross lots. They missed their way and 
were obliged to walk for nearly three hours before they were 
picked up again by their carriage. Our driver was a black 
fellow and shone like polished bronze. My O. S. H. must 
have smiled one of her pretty smiles to him for he allowed her 
to remain in the carriage while climbing the hills when most 
every other person was obliged to walk. Stopped to visit the 
Tomb of Lazarus, which is about twenty feet in a rock. It is 
a dark miserable hole and looked as though it might have been 
the real tomb. Near the tomb are the remains of an old stone 
cottage, said to be the house of Mary and Martha. A little 
farther on we came to the Garden of Gethsemane, which is 
quite a pretty spot. It is owned and controlled by the Fran¬ 
ciscan Roman Catholic Order of Monks. It is probably not 
more than half a block square, enclosed in an iron fence. There 
are some very large olive trees in the garden, one of them 
measuring fully six feet in diameter. A number of very pretty 
flower beds and hedges were about. They also had the sta¬ 
tions, or the way of the cross around the inside of the enclo¬ 
sure. Right across from the Garden of Gethsemane is the 
Virgin’s Tomb. This is a large cave down about thirty feet 
below the surface of the ground. The Greek church controls 
this and have a chapel in the cave. A service was being con¬ 
ducted in this chapel when we were there, but the air was ter¬ 
rible so we did not remain long. Near this cave is what is 
known as the Chapel of the Agony, controlled by the Roman 
Catholics. It is also in a cave about twenty feet deep. A 
German monk was there at the time who showed a number of 
inscriptions on the ceiling,' which he said were made by the 
Crusaders. After getting out into the fresh air we met a sw T arin 
4}f beggars. They were deformed in all manner of ways, some 



Tomb of Lazarus 



Garden of Gethsemane 





























81 


of them were blind, others witli their fingers off, etc., etc. Our 
dragoman yelled out, ‘‘Don’t let them touch you, they are 
lepers.” This brought to my mind the healing of the lepers 
by Christ when he passed over this land, probably in this very 
neighborhood. There is an old custom in Jerusalem whereby 
those making the trip to Jericho must be accompanied by two 
or three bodyguards. Presume this was necessary a great 
many years ago, but at the present time it is a great farce and 
simply a means of getting backshish from the tourists. We 
had two or three of those warriors with us. They were Be¬ 
douin soldiers and wore all the old trappings the old fellows 
did in the early days. They rode horses, had large sabres 
hanging down by their sides and in every way looked the real 
thing. They served one purpose and that was to amuse us 
looking at them. These Beduoins generally are a cpieer look¬ 
ing lot. A sort of a wandering tribe; some herd sheep, goats 
and donkeys. They are a brown faced people, a little the color 
of our Indian, but not near so good looking. They wear a 
turban cap, the band of which looks as though it was made of 
two rolls of black hair, and they wear a sort of a gown, gen¬ 
erally black or brown with a white stripe running down each 
side, that covers them about to their knees. They are bare 
legged and bare footed. On our way home from Jericho we 
met a great long train of camels being conducted over the hills 
by Bedouins. Our dragoman told us that they were bringing 
goods from Moab, which I believe is the home of the Bedouins. 

The next day we visited a Roman Catholic church owned 
by the Dominican Fathers, the order to which our acquaintance, 
Rev. Beaude, belonged and where he was stopping. We sent 
in our cards and he came out in a very courteous way and 
showed us about the institution. This church was built on 
the site where stood one of their churches a great many years 
ago; and when excavating for the foundation they discovered 


82 


a lot of old relics. They have a number of tombs where the 
remains of members of this order were placed, among them the 
tomb of St. Stephen, founder of the order. Our friend ex¬ 
plained that most tombs had a hall or large room in front of 
the part where the remains rested, where the Jews assembled to 
chant and pray. They had what was supposed to be the bones 
of St. Stephen in a casket over his tomb, which stands in the 
spot where he was stoned to death. The present Dominican 
order are making use of those old tombs as a burial place for 
their own members when they pass away. Six or seven of 
them already are laid to rest there. 

After leaving this church we drove to the Mount of Olives. 
On top of the Mount of Olives stands a mosque owned by the 
Moslems. They claim this is the spot where our Lord 
ascended into Heaven, and they point out a mark which they 
call the footprint of Christ. The Roman Catholics have ar¬ 
rangements with the Moslems whereby they are allowed to say 
mass in this mosque once a year on Ascension Day. The 
Greek religion also has a church on the top of the Mount of 
Olives. The day we were there quite a few of the Russian 
pilgrims were moving about. A number of spruce trees have 
been planted on top of the Mount, now forming quite a little 
grove. Of course, there are a great many olive trees, but I 
thought it too bad that they did not plant olive trees instead of 
the spruce trees, so that it would always remain a mount of 
olives. 

We next visited the Roman Catholic Convent of the Car¬ 
melite Sisters. There is a chapel there known as the Chapel 
of the Lord’s Prayer. This is where our Lord taught the 
Apostles the Lord’s Prayer. In an open court the prayer is to 
be seen on tablets, in thirty-two different languages, hung about 
on the wall. This Chapel was built by the Duchess de Bouillon 
of France. In the convent is her figure, in marble. What is 



A Bedouin 



A Caravan 



Mount of Olives ' 









83 


known as the Chapel of the Apostles Creed is also near by. 
It is a small underground chapel, about sixteen by thirty feet. 

We next went to the tombs of the Jewish kings, a large 
square cellar-like place, and it is said it was excavated about 
thirty years ago. To reach it we had to go down a number of 
steps cut out of solid rock. A couple of the tombs are of 
what they say is the old Jewish style. The first chamber we 
went into was cut out of solid rock. The opening is about 
twelve feet square and sixteen feet high. The partition wall 
between those rooms is eight feet thick of natural bed rock 
with a door cut through it. 

I noticed in front of the opening of one of these tombs, 
which was supposed to be for the remains of some king, a 
large flat stone, cut round on the edge. This stone stood on 
the edge and closed the opening of the tomb. There was a 
groove in which the stone could be rolled back when the tomb 
was to be opened. This brought to my mind the passage, 
“Who shall roll away the stone ?” 

In the afternoon we took a walk down Merchants Street 
and Christian Street and then down a street known as the 
Via Dolorosa. We passed the site of Dives, the rich man, 
the Arch of Pilate and Pilate’s house. The steps which used to 
lead up to Pilate’s house were taken to Rome and in their place 
now is a sloping walk paved with brick. The house is now 
used as a barracks for Turkish soldiers. Directly across the 
street from Pilate’s house is the Church of the Scourging. This 
is the church were it is said that Christ was scourged, but the 
pillar was moved to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. We 
then visited the Church of St. Ann, went down into the base¬ 
ment and saw the spot where it is said the Virgin was born. 
There is a small chapel on this spot which is said to have been 
built by the Crusaders. Near by is the Pool of Bethesda, after 
which the famous spring of Waukesha is named. The new 


84 


Bethesda is certainly a great improvement on the old one, for 
there was no water to be seen except a little stagnant pool at 
the bottom of an old well. The name, however, made me 
thirsty and I would have given the price of two schooners of 
beer for a good drink of our famous Waukesha water. 

We then walked back to Pilate’s house. It was Friday, and 
the Franciscan Monks were about to make the stations or the 
way of the cross in Via Dolorosa, the street which Christ passed 
through on His way to Calvary, carrying His cross. There 
are a number of tablets built in the wall along the street mark¬ 
ing the stations of the different events of that memorial day. 

While waiting at the Chapel of the Scourging for the pro¬ 
cession to start, I saw a very freakish looking man passing into 
church. His face was covered with a half starved looking 
beard and his hair was hanging down on his shoulders. He 
was bare footed and bare legged and wore a sort of a loose coat 
with a rope tied around his waist. I told our dragoman to 
try and get him out so that I could get his picture. The drago¬ 
man went to the church door and beckoned to him, but when 
he came out and saw me with a kodak he darted back in again. 
I afterward snapped him walking in the procession. When 
the procession started we joined the party and made the way 
of the cross with them. It was a queer mixture of people. The 
Franciscan monks, their heads bare, hair cropped short, their 
brown coats tied with a rope, and sandals on their feet; there 
were about twenty-five or thirty of these, and the balance of 
the crowd was made up of tourists, natives, etc. It was a 
pretty tough proposition, kneeling down on the stone pave¬ 
ments in the dirt, but as my O. S. H. had her eye on me so I 
was obliged to do it. After photographing my freak I found 
out that he was a hermit and lived somewhere nearby in a cave 
or “dug-out.” In the procession were a few Turkish soldiers, 
I presume for the purpose of keeping order. There was one 



A Hermit 



Wailing Place of the Jews 













85 


priest dressed exactly like the priests of the Greek church, with 
long gown and two story cap, but I was told he was of Greek 
nationality and Roman Catholic in religion. The ceremony 
of the way of the cross did not make a very good impression 
on me as it seemed a little too mechanical, and a number of 
the members in the procession were simply there through 
curiosity. 

From here we went to the Jews’ wailing place. This was 
a sad place to visit. There were a large number of men, wo¬ 
men and children leaning against a wall, weeping and wailing, 
and it was no sham wail either, for the tears ran clown many 
of their cheeks. Some of them were reading from books and 
while doing so were rocking to and fro, making considerable 
noise. Quite a number of them were dressed with long purple 
coats and round flat caps with a fur band around them. Others 
had on blue coats. Of course the poor were there also in rags 
and tatters. It was certainly one of the oddest sights of this 
strange city, where so many odd sights are to be seen. It 
is said that the Jews wail here for the loss of the city of David, 
and pray and chant with the hope of some day having it re¬ 
stored to them. The Jews of Jerusalem are an interesting lot. 
They are the real article. Quite a good many of the men wear 
a cork-screw curl of hair down each side of their face, just in 
front of the ear. Most of them are business men and are quite 
bright looking people, yet they do not compare in looks with 
the Jews of the United States. They have a sort of meek, 
humiliated look on their faces and have not that confident, 
thorough looking push that the Jews of America have; still, 
compared with the other natives of Jerusalem, they might be 
considered the chosen people still. 

One day we were out walking when a heavy shower of 
rain came up and we stopped in a sort of hall for shelter. There 
were two bright looking boys standing there. I made the re- 


86 


mark that they looked like Yankees. One of them spoke up in 
plain English, saying, “I am a Jew; this is my uncle’s hotel. It 
is for Christians and Jews alike.” He said they employed a 
Christian cook who would work on Saturday while a Jewish 
cook would not; the Jews quit work on Friday at six o’clock 
and do not resume until Sunday; that the Jewish boarders 
would be satisfied with cold food on Saturday, but as they had 
Christians also, they were obliged to provide for them. I 
asked him how it was he did not wear the curls. He said it 
was'optional with them to wear them or not, and as he was 
soon to go to New York, where he had a brother, he did not 
want to wear them. He was only about fifteen years old, yet 
he was about to make the trip to New York all alone. He ran 
off and got one of his uncle’s cards and invited us in to inspect 
the hotel. True to- his race he was business at fifteen. The 
population of Jerusalem is estimated at sixty thousand, thirty- 
five to forty thousand of which are Jews. They live in a por¬ 
tion of the city by themselves, which is about the best looking 
portion of the city next to the German colony. 

The camels are one of the interesting things of this con¬ 
glomerated mass; to see the enormous loads they carry, the 
way they squat down to be loaded and the way they stride 
along, one after another. Then comes the faithful little don¬ 
key who carries about two times his own weight on his back. 
There are any number of donkeys and camels in Jerusalem as 
everything has to be transported on their backs, no vehicles be¬ 
ing allowed in the city, or rather, vehicles cannot be used in the 
city owing to the uneven and narrow streets. There are a few 
horses and carriages, but they are used only for taking tourists 
about outside of the walls. 

David Street is one of the principal streets and that is only 
about twelve feet wide. It is a sight to look down one of those 
narrow streets and see the conglomerated mass of Bedouins, 



Solomon’s Temple 



Jews of Jerusalem 









87 


Arabs, Jews, black men, donkeys and camels. The women of 
Jerusalem are the oddest of all. Some of them wear a white 
sheet which covers them from their head to their toes. It is 
drawn tight around their heads and under their chins. Their 
faces are covered with dark figured veils, for the belief in the 
seclusion of women exists in Palestine as it does in Egypt. 
Whether this is a custom or religion I know not, but I know it 
is barbarous and ought to be abolished. Sometimes under¬ 
neath this sheet and veil is the blackest kind of a negro. You 
see one of these women coming in the distance and she looks 
like a big white bundle being rolled along, for in some cases 
they are about as wide as they are tall. 

Saturday, March ioth, we went to the Mosque of Omar. 
It was like all Moslem mosques, a round structure. In the 
center of this is a large natural rock about fifty feet in diameter 
and about eight feet above the floor. Around this rock is an 
iron fence. Between the fence and the wall is a walk. The 
Mohammedans pretend to believe that Mohammed ascended 
into heaven from this spot and that this large rock would have 
ascended with him had not the angel Gabriel been on hand and 
placed his hand on the rock to hold it down. There is a small 
opening in the fence at the spot where they say the angel’s 
hand was placed. The interior of the mosque is very richly 
decorated with mosaic, mother of pearl, cedar wood and silver. 
The floor, like all mosques, is covered with rugs. As we were 
about to leave, one of the attendants hailed us and pointed to a 
spot in the floor where nineteen nails were driven in a plank. 
This had something to do with Mohammed. They were all 
taken care of but three and if we gave him a good sized back¬ 
shish we would get a through ticket to heaven. We did not 
give him very much, so don’t think we got the ticket. It is 
only one of the hold-up schemes which you find as you go about. 
They also have in this mosque what they claim to be a few 


88 


hairs from Mohammed’s beard, locked up in a box. This box 
is opened once a year to allow his followers to touch the hair. 
I was thinking some of the youngsters might presume that it 
would act as a tonic when they were anxious to grow a mus¬ 
tache. 

We went from the mosque of Omar to another mosque 
near by, I think the name was Elaksa. This was originally a 
Justinian Catholic Church, or Basilica, as they called them over 
there. It is a square structure and the floor is covered with 
rugs. Here and there on the floor were wooden troughs or 
boxes made of plain rough boards. There were so many of 
them I could not imagine what they were for, but was told the 
members on entering the church removed their shoes and placed 
them in those boxes. There is one thing about the Moham¬ 
medan religion, that is, it is an easy matter to keep their 
churches clean, as they all remove their shoes and wash their 
feet before entering. 

We went into the basement of a building to what they call 
Solomon’s stables. This was simply a large basement with a 
lot of stone columns and arches. There were holes pointed 
out in the upper part of the girders which were said to be places 
for pigeons, also holes in the corners of the pillars where their 
horses were supposed to have been tied, so that it was not all 
left for our imagination to make a stable of it. Just outside 
was the Pillar of Absalom and the Tomb of Zacharia. We 
looked over the Valley of Jehosephat to the Village of Siloam, 
where Christ caused the blind to see. A little further on was 
the tree where Judas hung himself. Our dragoman said it 
was the real thing and it was easier to believe it than to look 
for proof. We strolled back and called on the Sisters of Zion, 
who have a place which extends into a portion of Pilate’s house. 
Their chapel takes in a portion of the old street which shows 
a part of the arch of the old gate. This arch is just back of 



Via Dolorosa 



Russian Pilgrims 
































89 


the altar in their chapel. They were certain that they had the 
real spot where our Saviour began his journey to Calvary. 
In chatting with the Sister she made the remark that they were 
happier there under the Turkish government than what their 
sisters were in a sister house in Catholic France. 

After lunch we passed through Zion’s Gate and visited the 
House of Caiaphas, where judgment was pronounced on Christ. 
The chapel there is owned by the Armenians. It stands on 
Mt. Zion. Near by the Germans are building a very nice new 
church. It is nearing completion and will soon be ready for 
the roof. We then went over to the Coenaculum where Christ 
blessed the bread and the wine at the Last Supper and where 
the doubting Thomas was convinced. This is also controlled 
by the Moslems, but the Roman Catholics say Mass in it once 
a year. 

From here we strolled down through the Jewish quarter. 
It being Saturday the shops were all closed. We met quite a 
few of them with their cork-screw curls, wearing their holiday 
attire, long coats, purple, blue or yellow, also their fur banded 
caps. We went into one of their synagogues where service 
was going on. There was an old patriarch in the pulpit laying 
down the law to them in great shape. He was yelling at the 
top of his voice and sawing the air in true oratorical style. 
His audience was not large and the people that were there 
seemed to be very indifferent. There were three or four young 
boys cutting up and frolicing about the church and nobody 
seemed to mind them. A few old fellows in the rear were read¬ 
ing their books and looked as though they meant busines. We 
then rambled back to the hotel. Our dragoman’s name was 
Alexander, but I styled him Alexander the Great. Alexander 
the Great said we had done Jerusalem and we were satisfied 
that it should be so, for it had become a little tiresome. The 
novelty of the whole thing had pretty well worn off and we 


90 


were anxious to get away among a more civilized, or at least 
up to date people. There wasn’t any great pleasure in the trip 
to Jerusalem, but it was instructive and interesting. The ac¬ 
commodations were much better than we had anticipated. 
When I first talked Jerusalem to my O. S. H. she fairly 
shivered, for she had been talking with people who had made 
the trip and they had pictured so much filth and dirt to her 
that she shuddered at the idea. Most of the people in the 
world are imitators; one hears another tell a story of filth and 
dirt about a place and they in turn repeat the story with a little 
more added to it. We had been told that the people you meet 
in Jerusalem in the shops, or bazaars, were so filthy that it was 
not safe to rub against them. We did not find anything of the 
kind. The people are poor, wear old clothing and go bare 
footed, but we saw more dirt and filth in Naples than we did 
in Jerusalem. Of course, we understood that a great many 
of the spots that were pointed out to us as the “real spots’’ 
where some historical event took place had to be taken with a 
grain of allowance, for Jerusalem has been through so many 
vicissitudes. Yet we know we were on the ground where 
Christ was born, also where the terrible tragedy of his death 
took place. I don’t doubt but that some of them were the 
“real spots.” I felt well repaid for any inconvenience that I 
was obliged to put up with, yet I would not care to make the 
trip again. 

There is always something interesting to note among the 
people that are making such a trip. One old English gentle¬ 
man, who was probably close on to seventy, made sight-seeing 
a business. It was actually hard work for him. He had a 
guide all to himself, and when he went into a church or a 
mosque he wanted to know the exact dimensions of the place. 
In chatting with him one day he told me he had retired from 
business about five years ago and that he had spent his time 



The Water Carrier 












91 


ever since traveling about. He said he was nervous and could 
not sleep and only remained a very short time in one place. 
There was a large cruising party in the hotel, nearly all from 
London, good, healthy, well-to-do English people. A couple of 
the men sat across the table from us. One of them was a Lord 
(somebody). The meat that they gave us at the hotel was not 
any too good. In fact it was hard to tell from what kind of an 
animal it came. One day our neighbor, the lord, got a piece 
on his plate and he said to his English friend next to him, “I 
believe it is a piece of a camel I have got here to-day.” Prob¬ 
ably it was, for nobody except the proprietor could tell the 
difference. Our Menasha friends decided to further explore 
the Holy Land, and we were sorry to part with them, for they 
were jolly good people, yet we felt we had enough of that part 
of the world. We also made the acquaintance of a gentleman 
and his wife, named Montgomery, and a Mr. Fasset, from 
Buffalo, who were traveling together. They had made the 
Nile trip in Egypt with our nieces and on that account we 
claimed special acquaintance. 

The American Consul at Jerusalem was a retired Mass¬ 
achusetts minister of the gospel. He was a man of about 
seventy-five and had been in Jerusalem about ten years. He 
was a little deaf, which made it hard for him to entertain peo¬ 
ple, yet he was always about, making himself as useful as pos¬ 
sible. 

On Sunday before we left we went to Mass to a church 
called the Patriarch’s Church. While we were approaching 
the church the Bishop with his escort arrived. The Turkish 
soldiers escort him from one church to another. He had been 
at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, from there they escorted 
him to this church. It seemed a little bit strange that the Tur¬ 
kish government should pay so much attention to the Catholic 
Bishop, but about the only duty the Turkish soldiers have to 


92 


do is among the religious people and the tourists. When one 
desires to enter one of the mosques he has to apply to his own 
country’s consul for an escort. After doing so one of the 
consul’s guards and one of the Turkish soldiers are provided. 
When we visited the Mosque of Omar the Turkish soldier went 
with us to the entrance and when we had passed in he went 
about his business, but the consul’s guard remained with us 
until we were through. Of course, this all means a little back¬ 
shish. 

On Sunday afternoon we took another walk to the Garden 
of Gethsemane. My O. S. H. was aware that she would en¬ 
counter a number of beggars, so she provided herself with a 
lot of small coin and thought she would do the kind act before 
leaving the Holy City. As we came near to Gethsemane, 
where the poor wretches are numerous, she began dealing out 
her coins. It was such a surprise to them that they all became 
excited and swarmed about her. The thought of being sur¬ 
rounded by a lot of lepers alarmed her and I was obliged to 
call upon Alexander the Great to get them away. We walked 
about in the Garden and picked a few violets. On our way 
back we walked over what is understood to be the path, or 
road, that Christ walked after His prayer in the Garden. We 
continued on up to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. My 
O. S. H. had purchased a number of rosaries and had one of 
the Franciscan Monks bless them for her, which he did in the 
Chapel of the Tomb, over the Tomb of Christ. This Franciscan 
Monk once lived in the States. As soon as he saw us he knew 
we were Americans and we had quite a nice friendly chat to¬ 
gether. While he was blessing the beads I sat outside on a 
stone slab watching the people come and go. It was very in¬ 
teresting to see the different denominations pay homage to the 
memory of the same Divine Person. In Jerusalem, as in 
Egypt, there are three Sabbaths, Friday for the Mohammedans, 


93 


Saturday for the Jews, and Sunday for the Christians, but there 
is enough going on all the time on each of those days so that 
you don’t realize that either of them is a Sabbath. 

On Monday morning we took the train for Jaffa, where 
we were to embark on our return trip. There is no harbor at 
Jaffa and when the wind is in from the sea it doesn’t take much 
of a blow to make it very difficult in getting either from the 
boat to the land or from the land to the boat. The wind had 
been in for a short time Sunday afternoon, and Monday morn¬ 
ing, and I was in mortal fear that we would not be able to get 
out to the steamer. In order to hedge a little I bet Mr. Fasset 
twenty francs that we would not get off and was very happy to 
lose the bet. It was a narrow escape for there was quite a sea 
on. The small boats we went out in were tossed about and 
the passengers were handled pretty roughly by the natives. 
The row boat pulled alongside of the steamer where the ladder 
was fastened and they watched the motion of the row boats 
and when the boat came up with the sea they grabbed a passen¬ 
ger and threw him or her into the ladder, then waited again 
until the sea came up and threw up another. In that way the 
passengers were all put aboard the steamer. My O. S. H. 
got quite sick in the small boat. We were about the first row 
boat load to be put aboard and we had quite a time looking at 
the other unfortunates being tossed up. There were quite a 
lot of oranges put aboard here and this kept us waiting for 
some time. The trip from Jaffa to Port Said was somewhat 
rough, yet we had a fairly good night. After landing at Port 
Said we had about three hours to kill before our train left for 
Alexandria, so we sauntered around, bought a few trinkets 
and took the train at twelve thirty. Mr. Montgomery and his 
wife and Mr. Fasset were in our compartment, also another 
American who was on his way back from India. He had a 
lot of photos that he took himself which he exhibited, and they 


94 


were quite interesting. I wired a hotel at Alexandria for 
rooms, but when we got there the only accommodations we 
could get was the gentlemen's writing room. The clerk closed 
this up and set up two beds in it for us. One of those was 
placed next to the window and the other at the other end of the 
room. As my O. S. H. always was a stickler for fresh air, I 
suggested that she take the bed nearest the window. She 
thanked me, but on looking around she saw an Egyptian full- 
sized mummy not more than ten feet from her bed. After 
looking him over she decided to let me have the bed with the 
fresh air and she took the other, so I had the pleasure of hav¬ 
ing the remains of probably some Egyptian king stand watch 
over me during the night. He remained perfectly quiet, how¬ 
ever, and I was not the least bit disturbed by his presence. 

Next morning we took a drive for an hour and saw an old 
pillar or shaft called “Pompey’s Pillar*’ and took a last look at 
the veiled women. There were quite a few of them on the 
street with their low shoes and bracelets on their ankles. Some 
wore stockings and others did not, yet they had the bracelets 
on—no accounting for style. 

We boarded the North German Lloyd steamer Schleswig 
about noon. After looking over the passenger list we found 
that we were to have our four nieces on board with us. This 
was a pleasant surprise, for they intended to take the Hohen- 
zollern which was to leave a week earlier, but on account of 
an accident to her machinery was put out of business, and if we 
had not changed our original plan we would have been on the 
Plohenzollern on the trip when she met with the accident. Our 
lucky star was with us that time. After waiting on board the 
Schleswig about an hour, our nieces arrived from Cairo by 
train. We all had a happy meeting again. Of course, we had 
a good deal to say about Jerusalem. It was only about two 
weeks since we had landed at Alexandria on our way to Jeru- 



Mummy of Seti I 



Captain Pesch and the “Schleswig 












95 


salem, but during those two weeks we had lived in an entirely 
different world. Up to that time the red cap and divided skirt 
was a curiosity, but how soon one can become accustomed to 
things. After being among them for two weeks, it seemed a 
little strange to see people dressed like American citizens. The 
two weeks were certainly interesting for one like myslf who 
never saw anything of the kind before. 

There was the water carrier with his goat skin. Those 
skins were taken from the animals and afterward sewed to¬ 
gether in such a way that when they are filled with water, the 
limbs of the thing stick out and it looks like a dead animal on 
the fellow’s back. I believe in Mexico they use pig skins. Our 
friend Whiting was relating a story he heard as to how they 
skin the pigs down there. The story runs that they tie a pig 
by the tail to a post and pour a little corn on the ground five 
feet away from it. The pig is so hungry he jumps through 
his skin to get to the corn. I saw one of those water carriers 
sprinkling the streets in Cairo. He made a nozzle of one part 
of the thing and did the sprinkling in pretty good shape. I 
was wondering if it was not cheaper for them than the way 
we do it with a team of horses. 

Egypt E certainly a strange land for Americans to see, but 
stranger still is Jerusalem. You see so many different tribes 
and so many religious freaks. We walked through those nar¬ 
row streets up and down hill where the people were as thick as 
flies. Some nights I would wake up and see Bedouins, Arabs, 
Abyssinians and Jews all about me. It was the dream of my 
life to see the land of Bible history. It was photographed on 
my brain when I was a boy and now I am satisfied. 

We spent the first afternoon aboard the steamer after leaving 
Alexandria chatting and talking with our friends. Had a very 
good night’s sleep, in fact I could hardly get my O. S. H. out of 


96 


her berth. I went back to the room at eleven o’clock, but when 
I opened the door and told her what time of the day it was she 
told me to “Skidoo.” 

It seemed that wherever we went on this trip we were bound 
to have a duke or prince of some kind with us, for here on 
board was Don Carlos, a would-be king - . He was a great big 
husky fellow with a Grover Cleveland neck. 

Thursday, March 15th. the weather and sea behaved very 
well and it really looked as though my O. S. H. would make 
this trip from Alexandria to Naples without getting seasick. 
She was quite giddy all day, playing bridge, and flirting with 
Don Carlos, the fellow with the big neck, the would-be king. 
His neck certainly would carry a crown all right and the weight 
of it would not make him round shouldered, physically, at 
least. That afternoon we played bridge. Miss Clara and I 
played my O. S. H. and Montgomery. YVe gave them a good 
thrashing, but they claimed they would get even with us the 
next night. I had been away from home so long among tourists, 
which are a sort of class in themselves, that I really felt as 
though I would not be able to get down to hard work when I 
got home. Speaking of tourists—they have always got to tell 
you where you can get something delicious to eat, or where the 
scenery is perfectly lovely. They always make use of the ad¬ 
jectives and it is either “perfectly lovely," ‘‘perfectly delicious,” 
or “perfectly delightful.” I felt that if I were to continue 
traveling much more I would have to be one of those “perfectly 
lovely” people. As it was I was only a sort of a “mugwump,” 
not right in it, “don’t you know.” One of our party, a Mr. 
Gilbert, a millionaire lumber merchant from Duluth, who was 
with the girls on their Nile trip, got giddy and treated us all 
to a champagne supper. I fell off the wagon and helped him 
out with the champagne. In fact, I was not very much on the 
wagon while traveling through that wine country. You could 




Temple of Apollo—Pompeii 



Italian Sharp-Shooter 














97 


get a bottle of red wine cheaper than a bottle of mineral water, 
so most of us preferred the wine. Even the good Methodists 
drank wine. 

We arrived at Naples at 4130 on the afternoon of the six¬ 
teenth. After the usual annoyance of getting the baggage 
ashore and through the custom house, I telephoned to arrange 
for a hotel, but could not get in the Grand Hotel where the 
girls were going, so was obliged to put up at the Savoy. It 
was a very nice little house not far from the Grand, located on 
a fashionable drive fronting the sea, with a pretty park between 
the hotel and the sea. This park is about six hundred feet 
wide and about one mile in length, with a number of marble 
statues scattered in it. We got up early Sunday morning and 
went to the church of St. Francis de Paoli. It was a large 
church with a dome in the center. Our guide said it was pat¬ 
terned after the Pantheon in Rome. Mass was said in one 
of the side wings. There were not over fifty people in the 
church. After mass I took a peep into the main church. It 
was a grand structure with thirty-two alabaster marble col¬ 
umns supporting the dome, and a number of large sized statues 
in the outer circle.under the dome. From here we drove to 
the electric tram and took a car for Pompeii. There we strolled 
up and down the streets of the ruined city, which were very 
interesting. The streets were paved with what looked to me 
like large field stones or boulders. Deep grooves were worn 
in those hard stones by the wheels that had passed over them. 
The road beds of the streets were quite narrow and the side¬ 
walks stood about sixteen inches higher than the road bed and 
at the crossing were stepping stones. It seemed there were no 
sewers to carry off the water when it rained hard, all had to 
pass over the surface of the streets. Pompeii in its day was 
supposed to be a very fashionable, luxurious place, yet what 
one sees there of the remains of their residences does not im- 


98 


press one as though the architecture in those days was on a 
very grand scale. The rooms had very few windows, and one 
thing I noticed in particular was that pretty nearly every house 
of any pretention had a large opening in the roof of the front 
room and beneath this opening was a sort of a basin to catch 
the rain. This opening must have been their principal source 
of light and ventilation. There were some decorations on the 
wall, mostly painted figures of small size. We saw one large 
square enclosed with columns said to have been the Gladiators’ 
Arena. We also saw the remains of two theaters and one 
temple. The material used in their walls to a great extent was 
chunks of lava, afterward destroyed by molten lava. The 
columns that I saw about were built of brick and plastered. The 
portions of the buildings that were left indicated that they 
were rather behind the times in that line. Yet the marble 
works of art that were taken from Pompeii and are now in the 
museum at Naples show they were way up in sculpture work. 
While looking about we saw the remains of an old mill where 
they used to grind their grain. It was about on the same 
principle that grain is ground to-day, crushed between two 
stones, one concave and the other convex. 

There was one department that our guide informed me 
was for men only. My O. S. H. took a seat on a portion of 
the ruins of Pompeii while I went inside. Some of the decora¬ 
tions were quite warm and demonstrated that the old chaps who 
lived there in those days were pretty gay. We were both tired 
by this time, so we strolled back to the Pompeii hotel near the 
entrance, took lunch and returned to Naples. On the way back 
from the electric tram in Naples we visited a small chapel, which 
our guide said was built by some private individual who had 
since died. The chapel is now in possession of some of his rela¬ 
tives. It did not seem to be made use of except as a show place 
for tourists. There was some very rare sculpture work, among 




















































1 he Veiled Christ in Chapel S. Sereno 




99 


which was what is known as the Veiled Christ, our Saviour 
lying on his back covered with a sheet. It is of alabaster 
marble and certainly is a great piece of art. There was an¬ 
other piece which represented an insane man whose reason had 
just been restored by the touch of an angel. The figure was 
covered with a net with meshes about two inches square. This 
piece showed wonderful art, there being so much relief work 
on it. 

We went from there to the hotel and seated ourselves on the 
balcony, where we obtained a good view of the Neapolitans who 
were out for a drive. After dinner, in the evening, we visited 
our nieces at the Grand Hotel. We met there Mrs. Nelson, 
who had just arrived from the Land of the Free, on the Corinia. 
Mr. Nelson was still at the dock looking after his luggage. 

Monday morning my O. S. H. thought she would do the 
shops. I went to the museum and looked over the works of 
art once more. We decided that we would not make the trip 
up to old Vesuvius; felt quite satisfied to see it at a distance. 
The old fellow looked extremely grand, the wind was blowing 
the smoke, and vapor came out from the top of it in the oppo¬ 
site direction. It rained in the afternoon and I put in my 
time writing up some of this stuff. I don’t know what I would 
have done with myself if I had not had something of this kind 
to do, as the English papers were generally a week old when 
I got them, and a fellow does not care much for an old news¬ 
paper. One thing I noticed particularly in Naples were the 
different kinds of uniforms one saw on the street. There were 
six different uniformed policemen and about as many different 
uniformed soldiers. The police work of those old cities is put 
into departments and each department has a uniform of its 
own. One is the health department, another detective, an¬ 
other looks after the vehicles, etc. The military is also cut up 
in the same way. There was one set of soldiers that were 


100 


dressed in very light blue, always looking spick and span and 
very dapper. There was another, I think they called them 
sharp shooters, who wore a stiff hat with the rim turned down 
and about as many feathers as would grow in half a dozen 
roosters’ tails, sticking out from this hat down over their 
shoulders. When I first saw the English soldier with his pill 
box cap fastened to the side of his head I thought it was the 
silliest thing I ever saw, but this Italian hat with all the feathers 
takes the cake for silliness. 

Another odd thing was the way they drive the cows around 
mornings and milk them at the doors of the customers. They 
generally have the calves with the cows and in some cases the 
offspring was almost as large as the mother. I inquired what 
the calf was brought along for and was told that the cow 
milked more freely when it was present. I thought to myself 
that possibly it was for the purpose of having the people know 
they were getting milk from a new milch cow. 

The statues and carving in the museums went to show that 
the old fellows were pretty gay in their days. There were 
three or four sarcophagus, which is another name for a marble 
coffin. The carving on the outside of them represented a pro¬ 
cession, all having lots of fun and good time. Some of the 
statues were made partly of white marble and partly of black, 
put together in such a way that it was impossible to see the 
joints, and the effect was very beautiful. 

Tuesday morning, March 20th, we were about ready to 
leave Naples for Rome,—Naples with all its dirt. I don’t 
believe there are many cities in the world where there is more 
dirt of all kinds, both physical and moral. These people’s 
morals seem to be about as low as can be found anywhere. 
The air at Naples must contain a great deal of humidity, for 
wherever an old stone structure was decaying I could see grass 



On the Campagna di Roma 



Ruins of the Forum 























101 


and weeds growing out of the walls. I saw grass growing on 
the roof of an old church that was still in use. 

We took the train for Rome at 9:50. The first hour of 
the ride was through a very fertile valley. The country is the 
redeeming feature in Italy. One gets sick and disgusted with 
the people, goats, and all sorts of things in the cities, but when 
on the train riding through the farming country, you forget 
all about the filth and disgusting part of the cities. The farm¬ 
ers seem to make use of every foot of ground and there is not 
a stone or stump to be seen. They plant grape vines and trail 
them on the trees. Then between the vines they raise all kinds 
of garden truck or other crops. As I gazed through the win¬ 
dow and saw how this land was made to produce I thought of 
my brother Michael’s ranch in California, where he has one 
thousand acres planted with walnut trees. The trees are 
planted fifty feet apart each way, and from the time they were 
planted there was no other use made of the ground, simply 
kept cultivated and left for the trees. If this ground had be¬ 
longed to Italians, they would have been growing all kinds of 
crops. Wherever there was plowing being done oxen were 
used. A large portion of the ground is turned over with 
spades by men, women and children. A certain kind of a pine 
tree grows in Italy which looks a good deal like what we call 
the Scotch pine. They call it the umbrella tree over there. 
The lower branches are cut off as the tree grows up, leaving 
only a small space on the top which makes it look very much 
like an umbrella. We rode through a number of olive groves, 
and, of course, the little Italian villages were perched up on 
the hills. There was a range of snow-capped mountains, I 
believe they were the Apennines, always in sight. Every now 
and then we would see some old tower or castle. 

At a station named Casino we saw a large monastery upon 
a high hill. I believe it belongs to the Benedictine Order. A 


102 


circling, wall with openings in it here and there, making the 
place look a good deal like the Rock of Gibraltar, winds 
around the hill to the building. 

About two o’clock we sighted Rome, and were soon 
alongside of a couple of old aqueducts and in another moment 
in the “Eternal City,” the city that has been advertised more 
than any other city in the world. We alighted from the train 
and took a ’bus to the Hotel de Rusi, which was a very nice 
house not far from St. Peter’s. As soon as we were located 
and got our bearings, we headed for Cook’s, got the mail and a 
cable from the office, which again set me at ease as to matters 
at home. From Cook’s we took an electric car and rode to the 
grandest of the grand, the great church of St. Peter’s. I had 
it pictured grandly in my mind, but not to the extent it ap¬ 
peared to me when I entered it. No one that has never seen 
St. Peter’s can form any idea of its grandeur. It is acres and 
acres of church. Just as we were about to enter the church we 
met Mr. and Mrs. Mayer, of Chicago. We had a hand-shake 
and a chat, and then went into the church and strolled around 
for one and one-half hours. I paced the floor from the center 
of the dome to the entrance and made the distance about four 
hundred and twenty-five feet and one hundred and sixty feet 
from the center of the dome to the rear end, making the length 
of the church nearly six hundred feet. We left for the hotel 
at about five o’clock. Next morning, March 14th, we called 
on Monsignore Kennedy, of the American College, and met 
him just at the entrance. He is a fine specimen of a man, sort 
of Daniel O’Connell in appearance. He received us very cor¬ 
dially and remembered our daughters who were over there two 
years before. He gave us a letter to the Pope’s secretary, for 
the purpose of getting an audience as well as attending one of 
the masses. After parting with the Monsignore we drove to 
the Vatican and went over several acres of art, mostly sculp- 



Crypt—Church of S. Cecilia 



Basilica—Church of S. Paolo 














































































103 


ture work. After walking a few miles through this sculpture 
work we got into another gallery about one-half mile long, of 
tapestry. We did what we felt had been enough art sight¬ 
seeing for one forenoon so went back to the hotel and rested 
awhile. 

Then drove to the Roman Forum, which is a mass of old 
pillars and ruins, the remains of the amphitheater where the 
old Roman sports used to have their fun. Excavation is still 
going on, and every now and then something of great value 
is unearthed. 

From here we drove to St. Cecilia’s Church, or Chapel, 
which seems to be Cardinal Rampola’s pet. It is supposed to 
be built on the site of St. Cecilia’s home. The excavation was 
done two years ago and a number of relics were found which 
proved the presumption as to the site being well founded. Un¬ 
derneath the main church there is a small chapel, which is a 
very grand affair, somewhat on the style of the Alhambra at 
Granada, Spain, with a lot of very rich mosaic work and a 
great many columns and arches; also a figure of St. Cecilia in 
marble in a lying posture with her face turned downward. 
This is considered quite a work of art. 

From there we drove to St. Paul’s Church, some distance 
outside of the walls of the city. In going to it we passed 
through what is known as St. Paul’s Gate. Near by is a sec¬ 
tion of the old Roman wall with a number of turrets still on 
the top of it. Near the gate is a small pyramid, the same as 
those at Cairo. 

St. Paul’s Church is a magnificent structure. It is sup¬ 
posed to be built on the spot where the Apostle was martyred. 
To a practical business man it looks like a tremendous waste 
of money for it seems to be simply a memorial monument built 
to carry out a sentiment. Two of the altars in this church are 
made of green marble or malachite, also the base of each of 


104 


four columns are of the same material. Portraits of all the 
deceased Popes are built in mosaics, in the wall near the ceiling. 
There are eighty large granite columns and heroic-sized statues 
of St. Peter and St. Paul, also the tomb of St. Paul. There 
is a novel looking candlestick about eighteen feet high and 
about fourteen inches in diameter set on a base three feet 
square. This was covered with carved figures, said to be 
Egyptian. This large church in all its grandeur, which cer¬ 
tainly cost an enormous amount of money, looked extravagant 
to me. If it was merely for the purpose of a memorial monu¬ 
ment a smaller artistic structure, which would have cost about 
one-tenth of what this church did, would answer the purpose 
as well. On the way home we passed a small pagan temple 
said to have been built before Christ. It was called the temple 
of Vesta, a small round affair, not more than forty feet in diam¬ 
eter and one story high, with a number of columns. 

The next day we went again to the Vatican to get our per¬ 
mits for an audience with the Pope. I was ushered into a 
waiting room with a lot of others and waited for about half 
an hour when a clergyman came out and admitted a portion 
of the crowd to another room. I was not one of the lucky 
ones, but soon my turn came and I was ushered into a room 
with about twenty-five others. Those were admitted one at a 
time into a room where a Monsignore, who was issuing the 
permits, presided. There were a lot of women in the bunch, 
and, of course, they got there every time ahead of the men. It 
was quite an ordeal, sitting there nervously shifting about on 
my chair and while waiting I thought how true was the saying 
that “Rome moved slowly/’ After allowing several of them 
to go ahead of me I cut out my modesty and pushed my way 
to the Monsignore, got my permit and went outside and met 
my O. S. H., who had a distressed face on her. She looked 
about as bad as if she had been on the anxious seat where I 


was. 
















105 


After lunch we made another visit to St. Peter’s, as one 
had to make several visits in order to get any conception of the 
magnitude of the place, or get any impression as to the loca¬ 
tion of the altars, statues, etc. 

Friday, March 16th, was quite a strenuous day with us. 
We employed a guide and got a comfortable carriage. Our 
first visit was to what is known as the Church of the Virgin. 
In this church was a statue of Mary, loaded down with rich 
jewels placed there by people who believeth in her intercession. 
The church is quite a large structure with fourteen large pillars 
on each side. There is a side chapel made of various kinds of 
Egyptian marble, making a beautiful effect. Our next visit 
was to the Colloseum or Church of St. Peter in Chains. We 
went there to see a statue of Moses, by Michael Angelo, con¬ 
sidered one of his masterpieces. We then went to the Capu¬ 
chin Church. The remains of a dead monk were incased in a 
glass case and were in a perfect state of preservation. It was 
said that this monk died two hundred and fifteen years ago. 
From here we went down into the basement, which until re¬ 
cently was their burial place. The walls and ceilings were 
decorated in the most artistic fashion with bones of the de¬ 
ceased members of their community. There were also great 
piles of skulls and shin bones around in the different chambers. 
There were about four or five forms of deceased monks stand¬ 
ing up against the walls of the rooms clothed with the garb 
that they wore when alive. It was a ghastly place to visit, but 
a good one for an old sinner like myself, for it brought death 
in a realistic state before me. 

We next visited a church (the name of which I do not re¬ 
member) in which our guide pointed out a figure of a hog used 
as a coat of arms by one of the deceased Popes. I thought that, 
being in the pork business, I would have a friend in court, but 


106 


our guide informed me this was one of the bad Popes, Alex¬ 
ander the Sixth de Bourgeois, so here again I was doomed to 
disappointment. 

From this church we went to the Church of the Holy Stairs. 
It is said the original stairs were taken from Pontius Pilate’s 
house in Jerusalem and placed in this church. People of all 
grades in life, and as I understood, of the various religions, do 
penance on these stairs by climbing up on their knees. The 
stairs are about fourteen feet wide with about twenty steps. 
When we were there the steps were full of people. One could 
see the lady in silk and finery side of the beggar. Our guide 
pointed out one chap climbing the stairs on his knees who he 
said was a pick-pocket. The fellow was just about at the top 
of the steps and probably had relieved some pious persons of 
their pocketbooks. 

We then visited the Pantheon. This was formerly a pagan 
temple, but is now a Catholic Church. In front of this church 
is a sort of porch, something on the style of an old Colonial 
palace. There are sixteen granite columns five feet in diam¬ 
eter and thirty-nine feet high, each of one piece of marble, 
supporting the roof of this porch. The interior is round, with 
a high dome. It is about one hundred eighty feet in diameter. 
In this church are the tombs of Victor Emanuel, Raphael and 
others. 

Our next visit was to the Church of St. John Lateran. 
This is one of the three great churches of Rome. They tell you 
in Rome that the bodies of Peter and Paul were divided into 
three portions. Their heads are supposed to have been buried 
in this church, the trunks of their bodies in St. Peter’s and their 
limbs in St. Paul’s. St. John Lateran is a large church, 
almost as large as St. Paul’s. It seems to have been a favorite 
of Leo the Thirteenth, for they say he spent one million francs 
in rebuilding a portion of it. There is a tomb of one of the 



Church of St. John Lateran 



The Pantheon 































107 


Popes in this church now. Leo’s remains will be removed 
from St. Peter’s to this church when his monument is com¬ 
pleted. This finished our forenoon’s work. 

In the afternoon we were to have an audience with the 
Pope. The time appointed was four o’clock and as it was a 
little early we visited the statue of Garibaldi. It is a grand 
piece of work and stands on a very high hill, from which we 
had a splendid view of Rome. Our guide pointed out an old 
tower where he said Nero stood and witnessed the burning of 
Rome. 

From here we went to the Vatican. The proper thing in 
Rome for a gentleman on an occasion of this kind is to wear 
his evening suit and white neck tie. I had decked myself out 
in this way before leaving the hotel, putting on a big loose 
overcoat to hide my finery. My O. S. H. was obliged to re¬ 
move all her feathers and high colors so she wore a black dress 
with a black lace biz on her head. There were a large number 
in the audience, and we all stood around waiting for the Holy 
Father to enter the room. When he did, we all knelt down 
and the Pope passed from one to the other, each one kissing his 
ring. It was quite an impressive sight. I had a good oppor¬ 
tunity, where I stood, to watch the expression on the face of 
nearly every one in the room. Some, of course, were there 
through curiosity; others were all aglow with excitement, but 
all showed the greatest respect and reverence. The Pope has 
twenty-four pages, or body guards. Those are the men that 
carry him in the chair. They are husky fellows and dress in 
red silk. My O. S. H. corrected me on this and said it was 
damask. Those pages circulate around directing and arrang¬ 
ing things. They looked quite showy. The coats they wore 
were made like hunting jackets. They wore knee breeches, 
high stockings and low red shoes. 

Next day was St. Patrick’s Day, and my own birthday. I 


108 


have been told that it was a question whether to call me Richard 
or Patrick, but as it was St. Patrick’s Day they decided on the 
latter. We went to mass in St. Isadore’s Church, which is 
owned by the Franciscans. The service was quite solemn and 
we heard a very eloquent sermon by a Jesuit Father named 
Hughes. It seemed nice to hear an English sermon. It was 
the first we had heard since we left home. 

In the afternoon we called on Father Meyer, formerly of 
Marquette College, Milwaukee. He was very happy to see us 
and we had a very pleasant visit, going over old times together. 
After leaving Father Meyer we visited an art gallery, looked 
over the pictures, and thus finished the day. 

On Monday we were to attend the Pope’s Mass. Up to 
this time I had not received my tickets, so called up the Ameri¬ 
can College and asked for Monsignore Kennedy, but he was 
not in, and the party who answered the ’phone could not speak 
English. I thought it funny that a man in the American Col¬ 
lege could not speak English. 

We had now seen a good deal of Rome and were quite 
favorably impressed by it as a city. The streets are clean and 
it is well policed. The uniforms of the police are kept spick 
and span, which is one of the things that gives one a good im¬ 
pression. The police in Italy have a special uniform for Sun¬ 
days and holidays. Rome is paved with the limestone blocks 
about four inches square, and they seem to hold their place 
perfectly. The streets are smooth and free from pot holes. 
The churches, of course, are the great attraction in Rome, par¬ 
ticularly St. Peter's. The approach, or courtyard, of St. 
Peter's is about twelve hundred feet one way and seven hun¬ 
dred feet the other. It is a sort of half circle with a colonnade 
on each side. In those colonnades there are three rows of 
round stone columns, each about four feet in diameter and 



I 

St. Peter’s—The Vatican 



Interior of St. Peter's 






































109 


about twenty feet high. There are one hundred forty-two of 
these pillars or columns on each side, or two hundred eighty- 
four in all. 

The first thing of interest when reaching St. Peter’s is the 
two immense bronze doors fifteen feet high. Near by is the 
holy door that Leo broke open during his reign. On entering 
the church one sees a couple of holy water fonts, one on each 
side, ornamented with the figures of two angels. To look at 
them from a distance you would imagine they are about three 
feet high, but when you stand near them you find they are fully 
six feet. The place is so immense in proportion that every¬ 
thing in sight is deceiving. The church measures three hun¬ 
dred twenty-one feet from the entrance to the center of the 
dome, and from the dome to the rear is two hundred forty feet, 
making the length five hundred sixty-one feet. The width is 
four hundred and five feet. The dome is four hundred nine 
feet high and from the base of the dome to the top measures 
two hundred sixteen feet. On top of the dome is a large brass 
ball. Our guide, who was an exceptionally intelligent man 
for that class of men, told us that twenty men could sit around 
on the upper side of this ball. The statues and paintings inside 
of the church are too numerous to mention, but there are three 
particularly fine groups. One is of Pope Clement XIII, an¬ 
other is St. Peter’s chair in bronze, which is a grand piece of 
work. Back of this there is a circular window of yellow glass 
with a dove representing the Holy Ghost just above the group. 
The light effect through this window is very beautiful. Then 
there is the group of Alexander VII, which is a mixture of 
white marble and brown jasper. The jasper is in the form of 
a mantle or sheet. The relief work on this is great and the 
jasper takes a very fine polish. There is one thing about those 
grand churches in Rome, they are all thrown open to the pub¬ 
lic, which to me seemed not the proper thing, as the privilege 


110 


seemed to be very much abused. Those guides take people 
through in a way that one would think they were in a public 
museum instead of a place of worship. In fact, there is not 
the same respect in the churches there that is seen in our public 
museums. We were in churches where students and priests 
were kneeling at prayer, yet our guide would walk right in 
front of them, lift up the lace on the altar, light matches and 
point out the different points of interest. I also saw one of 
those guides expectorate several times on the floor of St. 
Peter’s. Tourists from all parts of the globe are continually 
tramping about with their guide books. It would seem if they 
are bound to make museum of their churches they might as 
well charge a small fee and in that way get some revenue and 
keep better order. If you talk to a priest in this way he tells 
you that the house of God must always be thrown open. Then 
again the privilege of an audience with the Pope seems to be 
very much abused. Everybody that visits Rome wants to see 
the Pope. When we were there Buffalo Bill’s Wild West 
show was being advertised a week or two ahead. Monsignore 
Kennedy informed me that Buffalo Bill also wanted an audi¬ 
ence. I believe, if it were not for my O. S. H. butting in and 
putting a flea in Bill’s ear he would have been successful, but 
she told Monsignore that Bill was a bad man, that he had just 
been successful in getting a divorce from his wife. I guess 
that knocked out his chances for an audience. 

In the hotel with us were a man and his wife from New 
York. She was about the boldest romp I ever met, yet they 
succeeded in some way in getting an audience. The day that 
I was waiting outside of the door to get my document from the 
Monsignore, a gentleman from Wheeling, West Virginia, sat 
in the chair next to me. He was a nervous, weak looking 
American and said he was going away the next day, but he 
must see the Pope before he went. I asked him if he were a 



La Pieta, by Michel Angelo 





Apollo and Daphne 































































































Ill 


Catholic and he said no, but he had gotten a letter from Sec¬ 
retary Root to Cardinal Rompola, and, of course, he got his 
permit. So it goes all along the line; tourists of all kinds 
that visit Rome want to have it said that they had an audience 
with the Pope. Nine cases out of ten it is pure curiosity, yet 
the Pope and those that surround him seem to think there is an 
air of greatness about it which accounts for the continuation 
of the show. 

The next day, Sunday, we went to nine o’clock Mass at St. 
Peter’s. It was a pretty hard proposition for me to kneel on 
the stone flags, but Mass was short and I lived through it. 
After Mass we got a guide and cab and went to a building 
known as the Capitoline, a combination of museum and art 
gallery. On the way we passed a church which was at one 
time a public building and our guide said it was where Julius 
Caesar was stabbed to death. The Capitoline, we were told, 
at one time was also a public building where the Roman Senate 
used to meet. In it we saw a number of busts of old Romans. 
Among them was one of Caesar 96 B. C., and one of Brutus. 
The ceiling is in water color and told the history of Roman 
battles and victories, and Venuses there were galore, some of 
the original ones from the hands of old masters. There were 
fragments of a colossal statue, the man, I think, our guide 
said, was Daricus. When it was intact it stood forty-three 
feet high. After trotting through this enormous place, taking 
a peep at this and that thing, we went to the Jesuit Church. 
The late service was going on at the time and an Italian was 
laying down the law to his people in good shape. The church 
was well filled and the people seemed to be very much interested 
in the sermon. It was the first well filled church that I had 
been in since I left home. We saw the tomb of Ignatius 
Loyola, over which there is a very handsome altar. Part of it 
is blue Russian marble. There is another small chapel or altar 


112 


of the Madonna, which is in mosaics. On this latter altar 
were a number of offerings from the people. 

From here we went h> the Borghese Gallery. It is in the 
center of a large park. All the property of Borghese, who 
lost his money gambling at Monte Carlo and in other specula¬ 
tions, now is government property. In this gallery are a great 
many fine paintings and statues. There is one piece of marble, 
Apollos and Daphne, particularly fine. The ceiling of the gal¬ 
lery is painted in water color and is very beautiful. 

We spent the afternoon among the ruins. First stopped 
at an old shack, which our guide said was at one time the 
Temple of Fortune, supposed to have been built forty-five years 
B. C. Then he showed us an old building with columns and 
a portion of an old frieze which he said was Pontius Pilate’s 
house before he went to Jerusalem. We then drove to a large 
brick ruin called Maximus Circus, and from there to what was 
at one time a grand palace of luxury, called the Baths of Cara- 
calla, built two hundred eleven years A. D. A lot of old walls 
are still standing. The walls are about eight feet thick and 
forty feet high. The old chaps must have had a lively time 
there. They had amphitheatres, baths and a swimming pool, 
about two hundred feet by one hundred feet. It is said that a 
good bit of material, marble, columns, etc., used in St. Peter's, 
was taken from this building. When this structure was all 
intact it must have covered about twenty acres of ground. 

We then drove out on a road that has a fancy name, the 
Appian Way. Visited the catacombs, which is an underground 
city of the dead. We were told there were fourteen miles of 
passage-way. We walked through about one mile of it and 
thought we had all we wanted. It was here where the early 
Christians hid themselves and said Mass. There are a number 
of small chapels in the catacombs and the rest of it is tombs. 
We continued our travel on the Appian Way. Stopped at 



Sepulchre Cecilia Melella 



Amphitheatre of Flavius 





















113 


Cecilia’s Tomb, remains of an old structure said to have been 
built in the year 96 B. C. This is about the only tomb left on 
the drive. We went out still farther where we had an elegant 
view of Rome, as well as three small towns in the distance. 
This drive was named after Appius Claudius and at one time 
was lined with tombs of great people. While viewing the city I 
remarked to our guide that I could see only one smoke-stack 
in all Rome. Could see any number of church domes, but no 
smoke-stacks. I believe that one I did see was the smoke-stack 
of an electric light works. 

We returned to the city and drove out on a street called the 
Corso and we had the opportunity of seeing Rome’s grandees 
returning from their afternoon drives. The men on the boxes 
were in different liveries, representing the rank of the occu¬ 
pants in the carriages. Our guide would point out one as a 
prince and another as a duke, etc. Some of the turn-outs were 
beautiful, yet they did not come up to what one would see on 
a fine afternoon in the park in New York City or even in Chi¬ 
cago. 

The Pope’s army consists of one hundred Swiss guards, 
ninety-six gendarmes, sixty-six noble guards and two thousand 
volunteers, such as our militia, twenty-four of the latter serv¬ 
ing twenty-four hours at a stretch in their turn until the whole 
two thousand have served. As I understand it those two thou¬ 
sand receive no compensation for their services. 

Monday, March 19th, we rose early, got our coffee and 
went to the Pope’s mass. It was at eight o’clock, but as good 
seats were in demand, most everybody was there at seven 
o’clock, waiting for the door to be opened. The Mass was in 
the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican. The congregation was a 
mixed one, there being all classes, including Jews, most of them 
there through curiosity. Quite a few had opera glasses, all 
were craning their necks to get a good look at the Pope. The 


114 


church was packed, I should say about seven hundred people 
being present. The Mass, of course, was the same as all 
Masses in the Catholic Church, and the Pope celebrated it the 
same as an ordinary priest would. After he was through 
there was another Mass celebrated by some other priests, and 
the Pope took his place in his chair beneath a canopy on one 
side of the church, where he attended the other priest’s Mass, 
same as the rest of us. There was a good deal of spectacular 
about the church; there were four of the noble guards, two on 
each side of the altar, standing face towards the audience like 
four statues; then there were a number of Swiss guards back 
in the church; also the Pope’s pages in red and a few gen¬ 
darmes, and a number of men in citizens’ clothes with gold 
chains and crosses around their necks. I think the Pope him¬ 
self was the most humble looking man in the lot. 

After Mass my O. S. H. was tired and a little under the 
weather, so she took a cab back to the hotel while I took an¬ 
other stroll through St. Peter’s. I counted twenty-one altars 
including the Papal altar. Mass was being said on four of 
the side altars. I suppose there were a thousand people in the 
church, and yet you would not notice them. They looked like 
specks around the wall. Here and there in the church was a 
priest or monk sitting on the corner of the moulding on one 
of the huge columns, reading his office. The tourists were 
tearing around with their Baedeckers. I went outside, out in 
the court and sat on some timber that had been used inside for 
scaffolding. There I watched the crowds come and go. It 
was quite an interesting sight. First came a couple of roly- 
poly monks dressed in brown with little skull caps on the tops 
of their heads; then another kind of a monk. He was about as 
dirty as he could be, bare-footed and bare-headed. He evi¬ 
dently was giving all his attention to his soul, for his body 
looked very much neglected. Then came a couple of sisters in 



Pope Pius X. 



Swiss Guards 




































115 


black with white poke bonnets; then another monk with a 
black gown outside and a white one inside, with a red and blue 
cross on his breast. Last came priests in blue gowns and black 
hats and there were any number of priests of the beaver hat 
and cassock order, also a number of sisters of all kinds in uni¬ 
forms. It was St. Joseph’s Day, as well as being the Pope’s 
birthday, so it was a great day for the “dagoes” in Rome. 
Quite a few of them came in cabs, fairly well dressed; others 
were in rags and tatters. The spinster tourists with their 
guide books were going on the rush. The gendarmes were 
there also with their holiday uniform. I think it would be a 
fair estimate to say that there are no less than two hundred 
people moving about on this court as you approach St. Peter’s 
almost any day and at any time in the forenoon. 

A strange thing about the churches in the old country is the 
way they protect the entrance from drafts of cold air. They 
hang down a heavy leather curtain, which takes a strong person 
to lift to one side as you enter. But there is nearly always 
some unfortunate holding this curtain open with his or her 
hand out for alms. What a contrast between the leather cur¬ 
tain and our revolving doors! 

In the afternoon my O. S. H. was not inclined to tear about 
sight-seeing so I patronized my old favorite resort, the Turkish 
bath, and if the present bath is any indication of what the old 
time Roman baths were, about which we read so much, they 
were certainly behind the times. 

Next morning, Tuesday, March twentieth, my O. S. H. 
was feeling somewhat better, so we made another trip to St. 
Peter’s and saw what is known as the treasures, which consist 
of a lot of fine jewels, candlesticks, vestments, etc., one vest¬ 
ment in particular said to be donated by Charlemagne. We 
also saw the tomb of one of the Popes, in bronze, in the chapel 
of the Blessed Sacrament. We then visited the libraries in the 


116 


Vatican. As we entered the hall our guide told us the dis¬ 
tance from where we stood to the farther end was three hun¬ 
dred and ninety meters, about eleven hundred and seventy- 
three feet. The frescoing and decorations in those halls was 
very beautiful and was a sort of an illustrated history of the 
doing of Popes during their reign. There was some very old 
manuscript in cases, also some very beautiful vases and various 
kinds of ornaments, presents from rulers and people of different 
nations to the different Popes. Leo XIII. seemed to be the 
most favored. We trotted through these galleries with the 
guide, yet it took us an hour to make the trip. 

We then went for a stroll in the Vatican gardens. My O. 
S. H. was still a little under the weather, so she sat down on a 
bench while I started out to explore the garden. After walk¬ 
ing a short distance I ran on to a chapel copied from the one at 
Lourdes; it was exactly the same in architecture. There 
was also a natural rock and grotto just like the one at Lourdes. 
I plucked a bunch of violets for my O. S. H. and then we 
strolled back to the hotel. 

After lunch we went to the National Gallery, made a run 
through it and saw some fine paintings and a few excellent 
pieces of bronze. Went to a gallery where we saw another lot 
of fine paintings, one famous one, the head of a young girl, by 
Guido Reni. After leaving the gallery we met Mr. and Mrs. 
Nelson on the street. We invited them to dinner, which in¬ 
vitation was accepted. We dined in a nice little alcove, and 
after dinner chatted and visited. We then packed our trunks 
and at eight o’clock, March 21st, took the train for Florence. 

The ride, as usual, was through a very fertile valley, along 
the Tiber for an hour or so. The Apennine Mountains could 
be seen in the distance all along. The farmers were at work 
on the land, plowing with their white oxen. The country, like 
a large portion of Italy, is given to grape raising, and all along 



Mary Magdalen, by I itian 



Uffizi Gallery 














































































117 


the roacl we saw mulberry trees and grape vines. I saw one 
bunch of Italian pigs. They were the most miserable looking 
things I ever saw, a sort of a black and white, with flabby ears 
and humped up in the back as though they had a curvature 
of the spine. I thought to myself, that if our hogs in the 
States were in the same condition I would always be a bull on 
lard. Strange thing about the oxen in Italy; each section 
seems to have its own breed. Near Rome there are large 
hlocky oxen with long horns, running up and bowed back, 
while some distance from Rome there seemed to be a smaller 
oxen with short horns. 

We arrived in Florence about noon. After locating at the 
Grand Hotel I sent a note to our daughters, Misses Jose¬ 
phine and Irene, who were attending school there. We had 
not seen them for about eight weeks. They came over with a 
rush and we all took dinner together. 

Next morning we took in the Pitti Gallery, the principal 
one in Florence. The paintings in this gallery were supposed 
to be a very fine collection, but the trouble with all the paint¬ 
ings in Italy is that they are all on the sacred order, crucifixes 
and Saviours and the Virgin, Saints, etc. One sees so much 
of that class of work that one tires of it, no matter how great 
the merit of the artist may be, but the artists have worked in a 
little variety in the way of Mary Magdalene and the first girl 
Eve. Mary, of course, is represented as a beautiful woman 
displaying her charms, and Eve, as we all know, was short on 
clothes. Eve is generally represented as a coy maiden of six¬ 
teen, while her partner, Adam, is pictured like a farmer of 
about forty years, who is badly in need of a shave. Yet I be¬ 
lieve they tell us that they were both brought into the world 
about the same time. 

While we were in the gallery there was a young fellow, sort 
of a professional lecturer, taking a party through, mostly 


118 


spinsters with their guide books. A good few of them carried 
camp chairs and when he went to describe a picture they would 
squat down around him like so many hens. The following is 
a sample of his eloquence: “See the beauty in that drapery! 
See the way the artist shot that shadow in around that face! 
See the force of character in that mouth!” His accent and 
actions indicated that he might have been an American and I 
said to myself, he would make a good life insurance agent. 

Friday, March 22d, we visited another famous gallery, the 
Uffizi. Saw a lot more of the same kind, Madonnas, crucifixes, 
Eves, etc. There was one large painting representing the 
Saviour in Limbo, helping some of the unfortunate out of 
trouble. The artist managed to put a good many handsome 
women in Limbo, wearing very decollette costumes. It is kind 
of funny to study the imagination of those artists. While in 
St. Peter’s, in Rome, saw a large painting on one of the side 
altars representing the Presentation of the Virgin Mary in the 
temple. There was a group of people and two of the women 
were dressed decollette, in very bright colors. We had just 
returned from Palestine, where we saw how the people dressed 
and I presume they dressed the same when Mary was a child 
there. The contrast between the real and the artist’s idea was 
very great, but I suppose an artist has to paint his pictures to 
sell. 

It seemed to rain every day while we were in Florence and 
for that matter we seemed to carry the strainer around with us. 
We felt that we were good people for the farmers, gave them 
a shower wherever we went. In the afternoon we went to 
Miss Sheldon’s school, the school which our daughters were 
attending. Enjoyed a very pleasant visit with the young 
ladies and the school-ma’ams. 

March 24th we started out with our daughters as guides. 
First visited a church known as the Duomo, an immense 


119 


structure, almost as large as St. Peter’s. The exterior was 
built of white and black marble and must have cost an immense 
fortune. The interior was as dark as a dungeon. There were 
quite a lot of statues and paintings of great merit around the 
walls, but they did not show to advantage, the place was so 
dark. The main altar was in the center of the church en¬ 
closed in a marble wall about six feet high, with glass above. 
This enclosure is about the size of a fair sized church. Mass 
was being celebrated on the altar and there were quite a few 
clergy in attendance, but outside of the enclosure there was 
scarcely anyone. Outside, a short distance from the church, 
but not attached to the church, is what is called a Baptistry. It 
is an octagon shaped building and about as large as a good 
sized church in itself. Then there is a square building, prob¬ 
ably sixty feet square by a hundred feet high. This, we were 
told, is the belfry. Those two buildings are also of black and 
white marble. 

Next we drove to the Palazzo Vecchio, as it is called. This 
is a building where public affairs were administered in old 
times. It contains a large hall, decorated with paintings of 
different heroes of old times, also of victorious battles of the 
small factions and kingdoms in days gone by. I believe the 
building is now being used for city offices, but, of course, on a 
much smaller and more humble scale. Right across from this 
building is what is called Loggia dei Lanzi, a place used for 
public meetings. This building contains quite a few pieces of 
fine works of art in the way of statues, etc. 

We then took in the Church of the Holy Cross, a very large 
church built of black and white marble, containing the tombs 
of a great many of the old stars or electric lights in the church; 
among them Michael Angelo and Dante. But they say the re¬ 
mains of Dante are not in the church, still his figure is there in 
marble, also a fine statue of him in the courtyard, approaching 


120 


the church. A great many smaller lights are also buried in 
this church, their burial place being marked with marble slabs. 
In fact the church floor is practically made up with those slabs. 
Everywhere you move you have to step on a slab dedicated to 
the memory of some one that was once in flesh. 

From there we drove to the Chapel of de Medici, which 
is nothing more or less than a great mausoleum built by the 
de Medici family to receive the bodies of their dead. There 
are two of those chapels, one built some time in the fifteenth 
century, rather plain in construction, but rich in art. There 
are two groups in this chapel, done, or partly done, by Michael 
Angelo. A woman in one representing Day and man Dawn, 
and in the other a woman representing Night and a man repre¬ 
senting Morning. In each of the groups the woman was fin¬ 
ished, but the figure of the man was not. (I presume old Mike 
was like all men, had a weakness for woman.) The other de 
Medici chapel is quite modern and was built by a later genera¬ 
tion and is a great display of money. It is a round structure, 
about one hundred feet in diameter, finished inside with various 
kinds of marble. Carved in marble on the wall are a number 
of coats of arms of the different families. Set flush with the 
surface of the wall are great large vases and other ornaments, 
in marble, highly polished, producing a very fine effect. The 
ceiling is also grandly decorated. The real artistic art critics 
pass this new building by as not being worthy of notice, all 
attention being given to the Michael Angelo chapel, simply be¬ 
cause there is some of old Mike’s work there; but to my think¬ 
ing there is more art displayed in the new chapel. There is art 
in all forms, while in the old chapel there is nothing but old 
Mike’s work and I guess it is because the old fellow established 
a name for himself like the beer that made Milwaukee famous. 
There is a saying that there are only three generations between 
shirt sleeves and shirt sleeves, but it seems it took longer than 


Venus de Medici 



St. Michael’s 















121 


three generations with the de Medici. They were very rich 
bankers in Florence and on account of their wealth obtained 
titles and great power, but the race is about run now. It is 
said the remnant of the family is a worthless, dissipated fellow 
and in no way a credit to the name. 

Pretty much all of Italy, except the northern part, has a 
sad air about it. Y oil see great large residences which were 
at one time palaces and owned by great families, now con¬ 
verted into stores and tenements, the families scattered and 
gone. Then the large, empty churches also add an air of sad¬ 
ness to. the'place. If the rule of supply and demand were to 
be applied in Spain and Italy to religious matters as it is to 
business, there would be a whole lot of clergymen that would 
be obliged to seek other employment and there would be a lot 
of church property that would have to be converted into other 
uses. If it were not for the display of art in the shop windows 
Florence would be a father sad city to visit, but there are about 
as many Venuses in Italy as there are mummies in Egypt. 
Venus is in the shop windows, hotels, palm gardens and every¬ 
where you go. 

In the afternoon we visited the shops and went among the 
Venuses. When a man goes to Southern California the first 
time he gets the buying fever. If he has the money he feels 
like buying a small orange grove. So it is in Florence. When 
you visit those shops you see so many pretty works of art you 
get the buying fever. It is a good thing for the Italians that 
it is so and that there are so many Americans who visit their 
city, otherwise they would starve. I wanted to buy a real 
Venus in the nude, but my O. S. H. wouldn’t stand for it, so 
we compromised and bought a group called the “Three 
Graces,” girls with light drapery on them. 

Sunday we went to church in the forenoon. In the after¬ 
noon, although it was drizzling rain, we took a cab and went 


122 


for a ride up the hills to a place called Fiesole. Here we saw 
a large cathedral and also the remains of an old Roman theater. 
But we had a surfeit of old churches and ruins, so we did not 
enter either. Had tea in a tea house and started back home. 
The ride was through a beautiful country. We were up about 
a thousand feet above Florence and had a splendid view of the 
city and the river flowing through it. The hills were covered 
with spruce trees and dotted over with cosy cottages. The 
day was cold and chilly and the tea we had drunk hardly 
touched the spot, so when we arrived at the hotel I ordered a 
hot Scotch, which sent the blood to our finger tips as well as 
loosened our tongues, and we were all happy. 

We had Mr. and Mrs. Patterson and their daughter for 
dinner with us. There were seven at the table and we spent 
a very pleasant evening. Mr. Patterson was at one time in the 
lumber business in Milwaukee. He is like a great many other 
Americans, worked a little too hard, had a touch of nervous 
prostration, and has been loafing in the old country for some 
time. He was a very pleasant gentleman to meet, and made it 
most enjoyable for our daughters. 

The bread in Italy is made almost entirely without salt, as 
the salt is a good deal more expensive than flour. While in 
the hotel in Florence I asked the manager what they paid for 
salt. The price he gave me was equal to fourteen cents per 
pound. In this country the bakers put so much salt in the 
crackers that they are about like the old-fashioned pretzels 
that they used to serve in saloons so as to make you thirsty, in 
order that you would drink more beer. This is done because 
the salt is so much cheaper than flour to increase the weight 
in this country, and in Italy you don’t get any salt in your 
bread because it is so much dearer than the flour. We buy 
salt in our packing house for less than one-quarter of a cent a 


123 


pound, while in Italy it is fourteen cents a pound. Sugar 
there is also very dear, sixteen cents a pound. 

Monday we took a ride up a hill to a little place called San 
Miniato. Here is an old church, built very many years ago, 
of black and white marble, with the usual amount of mosaics, 
statues, tombs, etc. The floor, like a great many other churches 
in Florence, is a graveyard. Outside is quite a large cemetery 
with a number of fine mausoleums. I suggested that my O. 
S. H. select one as a pattern, that she thought would be appro¬ 
priate for her and myself, to have our bones placed in, but she 
wouldn’t take to the suggestion. The view of Florence and 
the surrounding country from this hill was grand. The tower 
called the Galileon Tower was pointed out. Galileo was a great 
astronomer and did some of his work in this tower. We also 
saw the place where Savonarola was burned by the early Chris¬ 
tians as a heretic. 

In the evening Mr. and Mrs. Montgomery called and we 
spent a couple of pleasant hours playing bridge. March 28th 
we put in most of the forenoon preparing to leave for Venice. 
Our daughters came over and had lunch with us, and then we 
kissed and parted. Our train left at 2 130 p.m. 

The ride for an hour was through a very fertile valley, very 
thickly settled; in fact, it was almost like one continuous vil¬ 
lage, there were houses built all the way up the side of the 
hills. The hills were terraced and planted with olive trees 
and grape vines. After we got up into the hills the scenery 
was rugged and very picturesque, for there was quite a bit of 
timber. We crossed a number of ravines or small canons, and 
continued to climb until we were up in the mountains, where 
we had almost six inches of snow. Rode for about half an 
hour in snow fields and then we got back down to green 
meadows. A stream of water ran alongside of the track, con- 


124 


tinuing» in the opposite direction until we got to the summit, 
then it ran with us. This was fed by streams from the moun¬ 
tains. 

We arrived at Bologna at 6:20 and there had dinner. There 
were quite a few smoke stacks to be seen here, quite a change 
from church domes. Bologna is something of a silk manu¬ 
facturing place. From here on it was dark until we reached 
Venice, the city of canals and gondolas. It was a novel ex¬ 
perience to be taken to our hotel in a gondola. We had heard 
a great deal about the music and singing by'night in Venice, 
but in this we were disappointed, for it was as quiet as death. 
As we moved along we could hear the splash of the gondolier’s 
paddle in the water. 

March twenty-ninth my O. S. H. was a little tired after the 
ride, so I left her in bed. I took my coffee and rolls alone and 
took a walk out through a narrow lane, some places not over 
four feet wide. I soon reached a fair sized street which led me 
into the famous St. Mark’s square. Strolled to the promenade 
along the sea, then took a gondola and rode back to the hotel. 
It was then about twelve o’clock, and my O. S. H. was rubbing 
her eyes thinking about getting up. 

After lunch we took a stroll together, went to the square, 
visited St. Mark’s church, saw four columns said to have been 
taken from Solomon’s temple. We did not question the au¬ 
thenticity of this. The columns are of very fine alabaster 
marble, and when the church sexton held a lighted candle on 
one side we could see clear through the column. The canopy 
of the altar was supported by four columns, carved in many 
figures, which our guide said told the history of the old and 
new testament. The church is rich in mosaic decoration, 
Titian being the artist. On the ceiling is painted all kinds of 
illustrated history, among them the picture of Noah’s drunk. 
One of the fellows in the church was on the look-out for a tip 



Venice 



Square of St. Mark’s—Feeding the Pigeons 























125 


and invited us into the Sacristy, where we saw more fine mo¬ 
saics and especially the ceiling, all of the eleventh century; 
also'saw the tomb of St. Mark. This church is now famous 
as being the present Pope’s church when he was Patriarch in 
Venice. His chair was pointed out to us. 

After we had done the church we rambled out into the 
square, where we saw one of the things Venice is noted for, 
the pigeons, being fed by people in the square. 

A guide got hold of us, asked if we didn’t want to see the 
glass workers. We thought we did. Pie took us up into a 
place where there were three or four girls working. The man¬ 
ager, or, I better say, the con man, met us and showed us how 
it was done. Of course, we were interested. We went into 
the storeroom, looked at things and priced them. The price 
of one liquor bottle and glasses was thirty-five dollars, de¬ 
livered in Milwaukee. I bid him twenty-five dollars, thinking 
I was safe. The con man went through a little con biz with 
his partner and I got it. Strangest part of it was that I had 
already been conned in the same way in the forenoon while I 
was out alone. Those Venice glass fellows are the w^orst in 
the world for that kind of a game. 

March thirtieth we started out with a gondola; called at 
one of the principal galleries and saw a lot of the same kind of 
pictures we had been looking at, only by different artists. There 
was one very strong piece of work, a large painting, covering 
a space of twenty-five feet by sixteen feet, of Christ at Supper 
in the Levite’s house, painted by Paola Calicia. Another pic¬ 
ture was of the Parable of the Twelve Virgins. The artist 
must have been a good feeder, for he had them all very fat. 
The leg of one of the Virgins was shown very prominently, 
and it looked like a hitching post, seen along the docks to which 
vessels are hitched. Then there was the picture of the Miracle 
of the Loaves and Fishes. Here again the artist made the 


126 


women as fat as porkers. It struck me that their digestion 
must have been good, to look so fat on such low diet. 

We went from there to St. Roch’s church. After strolling 
about in the cold dark churches we thought we had better get 
out in the sun and take another ride on the Grand Canal. By 
the w r ay, I forgot to mention that we went to the opera in a 
gondola the evening before. The singing was good, but we 
were tired and after three acts we called our gondolier and 
started for the hotel. It certainly was novel to ride around 
those narrow and in some places dark canals. As we were 
gliding along through one of those dark canals we heard a 
splash in the water a few feet ahead of us; some one had emp¬ 
tied the contents of some kind of a vessel from a third story 
window into the canal. A cold chill ran up and down my back 
when I heard the splash, not knowing but what some one else 
might take a notion of getting rid of some of the same kind 
of material from a third story a little farther on and next time 
we might not be so fortunate in escaping it. Getting back to 
our ride on the Grand Canal—the day w r as bright and it cer¬ 
tainly was a treat to see all the gondolas and steamboats mov¬ 
ing about like so many cabs in other cities. Just imagine a 
large city, about half the size of Milwaukee, without a single 
horse or four legged animal of any kind, although I was told 
that there are about two hundred cows somewhere outside and 
a few r cats and dogs. There are in Venice one hundred twenty- 
two churches, one thousand public gondolas, and nearly five 
thousand private gondolas, besides four thousand boats for 
moving freight. The principal industry is glass manufacture 
and also quite a lot of wood carving. Practically all the land 
has been dredged out of the canals. There are seventy-six 
canals, spanned by three hundred and eighty-three bridges and 
forty-six canals without bridges. People living or doing busi¬ 
ness on those forty-six canals must depend entirely on boats. 



St. Mark’s 































127 


The water is kept fresh by the rise and fall of the tide, which is 
three feet. The drinking water is brought from the mountains 
near by and is considered of excellent quality. 

In the afternoon my O. S. H. and I took a stroll along the 
promenade on the sea; saw the Bridge of Sighs, which connects 
a dungeon on one side with the Palace of the Doges, or 
Dukes, on the other. This bridge was made famous by the 
poet Hood. We also saw the clock tower, on the top of which 
is a clock with two life-sized figures of men, in bronze. The 
works are so arranged that the figures strike the hour with a 
hammer that each holds in his hands. The bells in Venice are 
something grand. As a rule I dislike bells, but in the evening 
and at twelve o’clock noon when those bells were rung I en¬ 
joyed the music very much. 

After we finished our walk my O. S. H. went to the hotel 
while I took a steamer ride on the Grand Canal. I rode about 
three miles, by the fine palaces and churches and places of busi¬ 
ness. The Grand Canal is about two hundred feet wide and 
on each side are finely constructed buildings, quite a lot of art 
in marble statues, once grand, but now old and weather-beaten. 
A number of the buildings had colonnades, or what we w'ould 
call porches, about twenty feet wide, the upper part being sup¬ 
ported with a number of columns, arched from one to the other, 
making a very pretty effect. The most novel thing I saw in 
Venice was a funeral in gondolas. The one that I would call 
the hearse boat was quite large, with a long cabin draped in 
black and white. 

St. Mark’s Square is quite a grand affair, about a thousand 
feet by five hundred, lined on all sides with shops and restau¬ 
rants. St. Mark’s Church is at one end of it. Shylock’s, the 
house of Shakespeare’s Merchant of Venice, was pointed out to 
us. Nothing particularly striking about it, only for the ad¬ 
vertising Shakspeare gave Shylock. 


128 


March thirty-first my O. S. H. wanted to do the shops, 
and as she and I couldn’t agree on this point I let her go her 
way and I went mine. I strolled through the Palace of the 
Doges, where I saw a lot of grand decorations, both on ceil¬ 
ings and walls, also some very fine stucco work. I went down 
to the cells; saw the different kinds of dungeons; saw where 
the prisoners made their confessions before their heads were 
chopped off; saw the guillotine that did the deadly work. I 
crossed the Bridge of Sighs. There are two passage-ways, 
one for officials and the other for prisoners. It has been said 
that any prisoner who ever crossed this bridge, never returned. 
Then I went out on the promenade. The sun was shining 
brightly and a little sunshine was just what I wanted after see¬ 
ing so much of what at one time was terrible. I hired a gon¬ 
dola and went back to the hotel. We packed our grips and left 
at two o’clock for Milan. 

For a few miles our ride was through level and somewhat 
swampy land, then we got into a nice fertile country. Again 
we saw mulberry trees and grape vines. This part of Italy 
was very much more prosperous looking than the southern part. 
The little villages along the road with their cozy churches gave 
the place an air of contentment. In our compartment was a 
Scotchman who was just returning from India, where he had 
been in the employment of the British government. He was 
very entertaining, as well as furnishing us with a great deal of 
information. We passed through the country which was once 
the kingdom of Lombardy. 

Arrived at Milan at eight o’clock. Sunday morning w T e 
walked out to the Arcade, which is a large block of stores 
opening into a court roofed with glass. This is about six 
hundred feet long and is quite a place of business. 

We went to the famous Milan Cathedral to attend'late 
Mass. It is situated on a square or point, which is the start- 







Milan 






























129 


ing point of many streets. We were obliged to listen to a very 
lengthy Italian sermon. The cathedral is a great Gothic 
structure, four hundred and sixty feet long by one hundred and 
eighty feet wide, has forty-two Gothic columns independent 
of the columns built in the wall, of which there are forty-four, 
making ninety-six in all in the interior; one hundred twenty 
turrets, or gothic points on the roof, three thousand and five 
statues and seven hundred fifty niches. There are thirty-two 
stained glass windows and twenty-five painted windows, fifty- 
two bas reliefs, four hundred and ten water pipes to conduct the 
water from the roof. On the front of the church are two 
hundred fifty statues. The statues on the top of the minarets 
look like little dolls, yet they are six feet high. The erection of 
the church was begun in 1836 and is not yet fully completed, 
as there are a number of niches still empty. The people in at¬ 
tendance seemed as if they were there for a purpose. They 
were well dressed and bright looking people. At the upper 
end of each column in the church were eight statues. The 
ceiling is Gothic and carved like what we call fret work. On 
one side of the altar is a splendid organ, the frame work of 
which is bronze. 

After doing the church we took lunch, called a cab and a 
guide, and took in some of the ancient part of Milan. Our 
first visit was to St. Ambrose church, a very old structure, said 
to have been used at one time as a temple of Bacchus, way back 
in the third century. I guess this was straight goods, too, for 
there were any number of old figures and things that would 
indicate great age. It was converted into a church during 
Constantine’s time. A portion of it was built during the ninth 
century. The altar stood out in the body of the church like 
the Papal altar in St. Peter’s. When the priest says Mass 
there he faces the people. St. Ambrose’s tomb was pointed 


130 


out to us, also a fine statue of Pius IX. and the sculpture dis¬ 
played great skill in carving the lace garments. 

From, here we went to see the city hospital, a very large' 
building, and maintained in good order. Our guide told us 
there were three thousand five hundred beds in it, one hundred 
twenty doctors in attendance, sixty of what he called chemists, 
seven hundred nurses and servants and twelve priests. . Part 
of it was built in the fifteenth century, part in the sixteenth 
and part in the early part of the eighteenth. It w r as interesting 
to note the difference between the new and the old. The old 
part has a lot of statues and fancy carving while the new part, 
built in the eighteenth century, is quite plain. 

Our next visit was to a little old church named St. Berna- 
dina’s. The spot on which this church is built was a huge 
grave in which a large number of people were buried. Our 
guide said that during the early days when Christians killed 
each other for the honor and glory of God, there was an awful 
battle in this vicinity and the dead were all buried together in 
one large grave. Later on some party ordered this chapel built 
as a memorial. In digging the foundation stacks of bones 
were taken out of the ground, and skulls and shin bones are in 
frames about the church, much the same as we saw in the 
Capuchin church in Rome. We went from here out to the 
grounds where preparations were being made for an interna¬ 
tional exhibit, or world’s fair. As the place was not finished 
we did not enter the grounds. Near this is a gateway, above 
the arch are statues of St. Ambrose and Garibaldi, and not far 
away is a triumphal arch, built partly by Napoleon, and after¬ 
ward finished by the Austrians. It is called the Arch of Peace. 

After dinner in the evening we went to the opera house. 
We were told the opera was something very good, so I blew 
in thirty francs for two good seats. The singing was first 







St. Gothard Tunnel 



















131 


class and the orchestra was also very fine, but as we could not 
understand the words it lacked interest for us. 

Next morning, April 2d, we took another stroll to the ar¬ 
cade. Northern Italy is great for the silk industry, and I was 
anxious to learn something about how the worms were fed, etc. 
I found a man in the Arcades who had a silk store and had a 
glass case demonstrating the process of the worm in all its 
stages, from the egg to the butterfly. It was quite interesting. 
The worm is a small speck, feeds two days and sleeps six and 
repeats this continually for forty days; then it forms into a 
cocoon and after some time there is quite a covering of silk, 
about the size of a large pigeon egg. It then becomes a butter¬ 
fly, the covering opens and it flies out. This bulb of silk is 
then boiled and the silk is spun from it. The butterflies are 
caught and one of each sex is placed in a small net bag and 
there remain to propagate and renew the process. Skill is 
displayed in selecting the color of the fly, for the color of the 
silk depends entirely on the fly. This worm must be kept in 
even temperature with plenty of light. 

At two o’clock we left Milan for a trip through the Italian 
lakes. We reached the first lake, Como, at 3 :3c), boarded a 
steamer and left at four o’clock. The trip was most delightful. 
The lake is narrow, bordered by high hills, or mountains, on 
either side, partly covered with snow. The lake ran zig-zag 
between the hills, so that one could never see more than about 
cne-half a mile ahead. Along each side of the lake were small 
villages. We rode about twenty-five miles, and I think we 
made twenty stops and yet we took in only one side of the lake. 
There was a steamer running on the other side, making about 
the same time and as many stops as we were. We put up 
over night at the Grand Hotel at a town named Bellagio. Next 
morning I got up early, hired a carriage and drove up into 
the mountains. I presume I got up about two or three thou- 


132 


sand feet, and the view of the lake and the town below was 
very beautiful. On my way up I passed a great many cosy 
farm cottages, some shrines, also one pretty little church. 

I went back to the hotel, had breakfast and took the steamer 
over to Melaggio, where we boarded a narrow gauge train and 
ran zig-zag up the mountains and then across over to another 
lake called Lugano. There were quite a number of old-fash¬ 
ioned cozy cottages and little churches along this narrow gauge 
road. We boarded a steamer on Lake Lugano at about twelve 
o’clock, took lunch and in a short time we were in Swiss waters 
and at two thirty were on Swiss soil. Along the shores of this 
lake there were also a number of small villages. 

At about the middle of the afternoon we arrived at the rail¬ 
road station and took a train for Lucerne. It was only a short 
time until we were feasting our eyes on the great scenery of 
Switzerland, which most everyone has heard or read about, but 
no matter how much one hears or reads about this country, they 
cannot conceive the grandeur of Switzerland until they see it. 

The train we were on was a tourist train and the car in 
which we were was a good deal on the style of the American 
cars. The passengers were of mixed nationality, German, 
English and American, and all were loud in exclamation about 
the grandeur of the scenery. We have great scenery in our 
country, Colorado, Yosemite Valley and other places, but it is 
wild. That which makes the Switzerland scenery picturesque 
and so interesting is the number of cozy villages with cozy 
little churches set in at the foot of the mountains all along the 
road. These little churches are all built alike, probably they 
would accommodate from one hundred to one hundred fifty 
people. They have a nice tower set off with a spire. It is in 
these little villages one sees religion and the benefit of it. We 
passed through a number of tunnels, and it is well we did, for 
while we were going through tunnels it gave our eyes a little 



Luzerne 



The Sleeping Lion of Luzerne 





















133 


rest. We passed through the famous St. Gothard Tunnel at 
five o’clock. It took us fifteen minutes to go through and our 
train was a fast one. They say it takes twenty minutes for 
an ordinary train. The tunnel is nine miles long. The air 
in the tunnel seemed to be fairly good, at least we had no un¬ 
comfortable feeling. 

Our ride was made very interesting by the number of pretty 
cascades, canons, hills, etc. We passed one town, Arth Goldan, 
where in 1896 a village was buried by a landslide. The new 
village is built directly on top of the earth that covers the old 
one, and looking up at the mountain, where the slide came 
from, one sees a great mass of overhanging rock, which looks 
as though it might let loose most any time. 

We arrived at Lucerne at seven o’clock and put up at the 
National Hotel after spending the busiest sight-seeing day 
since we left home. Lucerne is quite a pretty place. On 
April fourth we took in the sights, not a very big undertaking 
in Lucerne. There are a couple of old historical bridges and 
a church with a very nice organ. One thing about the 
churches there, they are not so much on the museum order. 
They have an iron fence or grating in the rear end of the church 
so the sight-seers could look through, but could not go inside. 
Devout people who wished to call at the church and pray also 
prayed outside of this grating. 

We visited what was called the Glacier Gardens, a place 
discovered some thirty-four years ago. It demonstrated how 
water running down over a soft rocky surface caused whirl¬ 
pools and in those whirlpools were boulders or hard round 
stones. Those stones were whirled around with the water, 
boring holes into the softer rock, making what they term mills. 
After poking around there for half an hour or so we separated. 
My O. S. H., as usual, took in the shops and I went ofif in 


134 


search of some Swiss cow bells, which I purchased intending' to 
use for my Swiss cows at Pine Lake. 

The Swiss language is a good deal like the Prussian Ger¬ 
man and I was able to get about and make myself pretty well 
understood. The people of Switzerland seem to be very poorly 
paid, yet they are all fairly well dressed and contented looking. 
I inquired of the barber who shaved me what a good barber 
received. He said one hundred francs per month and find his 
own keep. This is about what a barber receives per week in 
a good shop in the States. A cabman told me that he received 
thirty francs per month, but I presume that he was supposed 
to get something in tips. I saw a couple of the best butcher 
shops in Lucerne that I saw anywhere on my trip. They 
were good large shops with very choice looking meat in them. 
Through Spain and Italy the shops were such dirty looking 
holes that I did not investigate any of them. 

April 5th it was a bright, sunshiny, Swiss morning. We 
rambled about in a careless kind of a way. Called at Cook’s 
and got a couple of letters; walked across the old bridges and 
saw what they call the Peace Monument, or the Sleeping Lion. 
It is a very large figure of a lion cut in the side of a perpendicu¬ 
lar rock. I believe it commemorates some event during Na¬ 
poleon’s time. Shops in Lucerne are very pretty. There is a 
great deal of wood carving in all forms and shapes, quite a 
number of Swiss clocks, etc. After satisfying ourselves that 
we had done Lucerne we turned out at five-thirty on the 
morning of April sixth, and took the train for Paris. 

The morning was clear and fine, and the scenery for a short 
distance outside of Lucerne was very picturesque, but after 
we got out a ways we came into a level farming country and, 
judging by the lack of fences or hedges, it must have been 
owned by rich men in large sections. There were a number of 
small forests along the road, showing the trees had been 


135 


planted, as they were in rows in regular order. We arrived at 
Basel, the frontier, at nine o’clock, and having an hour and a 
half before our train left, we hired a cab and took a drive 
around the city; crossed the River Rhine, which was quite a 
stream at that point. At ten-thirty we again took our train 
and started to cross a portion of Kaiser Wilhelm’s territory. 
Rode for about two and one-half hours through this portion 
of Germany, and then crossed into French territory. The 
soldiers were very thick along this strip of country on both 
sides between Germany and France. We saw one good sized 
squad of cavalry consisting of a lot of fine looking young men, 
and near the place where we saw them we also saw a woman 
plowing in the field. It occurred to me that possibly her son 
was one of the young men in the cavalry. The country along 
through France was very pretty. There was a good portion 
of it which had been recently cultivated, and some green fields 
right next to the recently cultivated ones. The French farm 
houses are not quite as comfortable looking or well kept as the 
Swiss. 

We arrived at Paris five forty-five and endeavored to get 
into the Hotel de Lattna, but there was no room, so were forced 
to put up at the Grand Hotel, which is the Waldorf Astoria of 
Paris. It was my third visit to Paris and it seemed that each 
time I disliked the place more than on the previous visit. 
Everything about the French people seems superficial, the men 
with their twisted mustaches, silk hats and canes; the women 
with their fancy hats, laced up bodies and high heeled shoes. 
My O. S. H. was right at home, however, in Paris, as she had 
a big field for shopping. Strange thing about this shopping: 
a woman seems to think she has a perfect right to go into a 
store, price everything from one end to another and not buy 
anything. I call this stealing: it is stealing the clerk’s time. I 


136 


never go into a store unless it is when I want to buy something 
and then it doesn’t take me but a short time. 

There is a great large palm garden in the Grand Hotel, 
I should say about one hundred feet square, roofed with glass, 
and under this glass were a great number of electric lights. 
The people would gather in this palm garden in the afternoon 
about four o’clock and also in the evening between eight and 
eleven. A very large portion of those who congregated there 
were women of the sporting order. They were dressed up 
with fancy plumes and feathers and would sit about ogling the 
men. I named the place “The Sporting Woman’s Exchange.” 
Some of them were American women and seemed to be in the 
lead. While sitting there one evening, the band played all 
kinds of tunes, from Wagner down to rag time. I stepped 
over to the leader and asked him if he could play the “Last 
Rose of Summer,” which he did, and after he finished received 
quite an encore. They then played Yankee Doodle, Dixie, and 
other American pieces, and at the end of each there was a loud 
applause, which showed that a good portion of the guests were 
Americans. 

Sunday, April 8th, we went to Mass to the Notre Dame 
church. This is one of those immense churches, about five 
hundred feet long by two hundred feet wide, part Gothic style. 
There are some very fine windows in this church, two of them 
exceptionally large. We entered through the front door and 
walked what seemed like half a block to where Mass was being 
said at the main altar, which is enclosed'in an iron fence, in the 
front and rear and a solid wall on each side. This enclosure is 
about one hundred fifty feet by fifty feet. It was Palm Sun¬ 
day and there were a large number of priests officiating. The 
blessing of the palms made the service somewhat lengthy. I 
got tired staying in one place so I strolled around the church. 

I ran across one piece of marble which represented Christ rising 



Swiss Scene 



Notre Dame de Paris 











































> 





















* 














137 


from the tomb. It was a ghastly looking combination. There 
was no inscription, but I took it for granted that it represented 
the triumph of our Saviour over Death. There are the figures 
of a skeleton and an angel near by and Christ pushing up the 
lid of the casket. It was a grand piece of work, but not very 
pleasing to look at. 

After Mass we took a stroll through the grand art galleries 
in the Louvre. We walked for miles among statues and pic¬ 
tures. Some say there are ten thousand pictures in those gal¬ 
leries, all of the best. Here again my O. S. H. and I were a 
little at outs. I like Rubens’ fat women, but she won’t look at 
them. After walking about craning our necks until we were 
tired and about to leave, we met our Dominican friend, Rev. 
Beaude, whom we had become acquainted with in Jerusalem. 
He was dressed up quite dapper with the latest fashioned neck 
tie, so much in style that we did not know him at first. Crossed 
over to the Grand Louvre Hotel, where we lunched, and there 
we met Mrs. John Johnston and her charming daughter Hilda, 
of Milwaukee. Had a pleasant visit with them and then 
started for the San Louis Chapelle or St. Louis Chapel, a very 
pretty little Gothic chapel built almost entirely of stained glass. 
This finished our sight-seeing for the day. 

After dinner in the evening, we sat around the palm gar¬ 
den feasting our eyes on dudes and dudines; some of the hats 
the women wore were a sight. While looking at them I 
thought of what Bill Dorfner, our cattle buyer, used to say 
about the girls having a whole hay field on their hats. One 
of them had on a huge green straw hat with a wide green rim 
and a great big stack of roses on top of it. 

April ninth, nothing much to report. 

April tenth, hired a guide and cab; went to an old church, 
saw a very fine piece of marble, of Richelieu and his two faith¬ 
ful nieces. Our next visit was to the Panthenon, or St. Ger- 


138 


main's church. This is quite a temple, with a lot of frescoing 
showing historical events of St. Germain and Joan of Arc. 
Among the paintings was the execution of St. Denis, a ghastly- 
looking thing, but very well executed. After leaving this church 
we went to the Luxembourg Galleries; saw a lot of statues 
and paintings, some of them very good. There was one artist, 
I don't remember his name now, that had a number of pictures 
in this gallery, who used his model, a very fine looking woman, 
for all his subjects, whether it was in the nude or whether it 
was a saint or the Virgin Mary; it made no difference. 

From here we visited Napoleon’s Tomb. This is quite a 
structure, about three hundred feet square by three hundred 
and fifty feet high to the peak on the dome. There is one 
large dome and four smaller ones. The building, although 
constructed as a chapel, is not used for church purposes, so 
there is nothing sacred in the place except what remains of 
Napoleon. 

When I entered I did not think to remove my hat. Walked 
in with my hat on, but it was not long before a guard stepped 
up to me, touched me on the shoulder and motioned to my hat. 
This goes to show the veneration in which Napoleon is held 
by the people of France. Although the country is now a re¬ 
public, old Bona is still fresh in their minds and is looked upon 
as their idol. There are two or three other tombs in this build¬ 
ing, but they count for nothing; Napoleon's is the one object of 
interest. 

Next we visited the chapel in the rear. A number of old 
banners hang from the ceiling of this chapel. Then we went to 
a museum in connection with the Soldiers’ Home. There 
was nothing much in this museum but relics of Napoleon, his 
hat and saddle, the casket in which they brought him from 
St. Helena, the cot bed which he carried about with him while 
at war, a lot of pictures of his battles, flags he captured, etc. 



Sainte Chapelle, Paris 



Tomb of Richelieu 
































































139 


From there we went to a horse show. It was in one of the 
world’s fair buildings and was a rather tame affair compared 
with the horse shows in our country. A lot of horses were led 
into the ring and one horse and rider at a time jumped hurdles, 
until we saw twenty-three different horses do the same thing. 
This became monotonous, so we left. 

Right near the horse show was a very fine bridge, across 
the Seine, built in 1897 and named after Alexander III. of 
Russia, I presume as a sort of sop to the Russians on account 
of the alliance with France. Speaking of Napoleon, there is a 
column in one of the squares in Paris with Napoleon’s figure 
on the top of it. The shaft or body of the column is built of 
mason work and coated with bronze. They say it took the 
brass of twelve hundred cannon to make this shell of bronze 
and is made principally of cannon that Napoleon captured. 

April eleventh we took the train to Fontainebleau, saw the 
palace where Napoleon spent a good deal of his time both when 
he was in the height of his glory and when he met his down¬ 
fall. The table on which he signed his abdication is still there. 
This place to me was a great vulgar display of money. Gold 
is pasted everywhere, and the tapestry is very, very rich. Some 
of the beds that were used in Napoleon’s time are still there, 
his bed having a large canopy with a large letter “N” in front 
of it. While we were there, there was another party of Ameri¬ 
cans making the rounds with us. I got to talking with the 
gentleman in the party about the extravagance of the place 
and he said that one of the life insurance companies in New 
York City had sent a man over there to copy the rooms and 
furniture and had their office fixed up in the same style. After 
spending an hour or so looking at this luxurious place we went 
out to lunch and then for a drive through the forest, as it is 
called. 

The drive was very pleasant, the trees were budding, some 


140 


of them fairly well leaved out, enough so that it made a fellow 
feel that winter was about gone and the good old summer time 
was at hand. The roads through this forest were perfect. 
Many of the trees were beech and birch with quite a few pine 
mixed in. It reminded me a good deal of Mackinac Island. 

Then we took , the train for Paris. Arrived at the hotel 
about six o’clock. After dinner we took in the sights in the 
palm garden as usual. The gaiety of this place must have 
been somewhat infectious for my O. S. H. went off one morn¬ 
ing and bought a new hat. It was a pretty gay affair with a 
bird’s wing on each side. She asked me what I thought of it 
and I told her I thought it was pretty Frenchy, so she went 
and exchanged it for another, and the next one was also quite 
a bit on the French order. The last evening that we were at 
the hotel she was doing quite a bit of writing, so I told her I 
would sit outside and take in the sights, and when she got 
through she could call for me. It seems that she got a little 
mixed and walked about quite a bit in search of me, and in 
making the rounds, one of the silk hat, twisted mustache gen¬ 
tlemen lifted his hat to her. She ran away to her room furi¬ 
ous, and when I did not meet her I went to the room and there 
I found her in a great state of excitement. She related her ex¬ 
perience and I told her the hat was the cause of it. I wanted 
her to go with me so that I might call him out, as they say in 
that country, but she said, “Oh, dear, no! Let it go.’’ 

We left Paris at twelve o'clock noon on April twelfth. The 
day was fine and very pretty was the country through which 
we rode. We met Mr. Allen, of Kenosha, with a friend of 
his on the train going to London, which made the trip quite 
pleasant. We crossed the channel in the New Turbine boat. 
There was no sea and we made the trip in one hour. The 
country through England was equally pretty, fruit trees were 
in bloom. This part of the country seemed to be given up to 



Column Vendome 




























141 


hop growing as there were poles and dry houses along the way. 
We arrived at London about seven o’clock and put up at the 
Savoy Hotel, quite a high-toned place. In front of the en¬ 
trance to the main dining room stood four liveried flunkeys, 
dressed and looked a good deal like the Swiss guards in the 
Vatican. Presume they were there as ornaments and had to 
be paid for in the bill of fare. Next day was Good Friday. 
We went to the cathedral to service and after service visited 
Westminster Abbey for a short time. 

In the afternoon I took in a foot ball game. It was quite 
different from our American game, as those that took part in it 
were not allowed to touch the ball with their hands, simply 
kick it with their feet and bump it with their heads, a very 
pretty game, but I did not think there was the same contest by 
the sides as there is in our games. The goal was a place about 
thirty feet long by eight feet high. A man was stationed at 
each goal to prevent the ball from passing through, so it was a 
very hard matter for either side to make a goal. 

After returning to the hotel I met Sir Thomas Shaugh- 
nessy of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, and we had a very 
pleasant visit. I forgot to mention that there were some thirty 
or forty thousand people at the foot ball game, of which, I 
should say, ninety-eight per cent, were men and seventy-five 
per cent, of those smoked pipes. Saturday we went to Tate’s 
Gallery and saw a very fine collection of paintings, one by Rosa 
Bonheur, the famous horse painter. We then took a stroll 
through the Houses of Parliament. On the walls of one of the 
corridors is a large painting of the Death of Nelson, and an¬ 
other of the meeting of Wellington and Blucher. The hall in 
which the members of Parliament meet, i. e., the House of 
Commons, is a room not more than sixty by a hundred feet, 
and the House of Lords about the same size. In the basement 
is a crypt or chapel which was made use of some years ago. 


142 


We had lunch and again visited Westminster Abbey. The 
old Abbey as a cemetery beats anything we saw in Italy, but 
the Englishmen show their money making tactics in the Abbey 
as well as in all other matters. One wing in which the most 
prominent people are buried, six pence is charged for entrance. 
There are a couple of guides that take people through and 
speak their little piece, giving you the ancestry of the different 
kings and queens, etc. The fellow we had rattled it off in 
about the same manner that a horseman would give you the 
pedigree of a trotting horse. He was shy of a couple of his 
front teeth and that, together with dropping his h’s, made it 
difficult to understand him. He told us a portion of the Abbey 
was built in 1296; showed us the seats where the monks used 
to sit when at prayer. This, of course, dates back to the time 
before the Abbey was stolen from the Catholics. This portion 
was called King Henry VII.’s Chapel. The ceiling is carved 
stone and the carving is very well done. He pointed out the 
tomb of some queen. I think he said she died some distance 
away and had to be carried to the Abbey. The party carrying 
her made a number of stops and at every stop planted a cross, 
which accounts for the names, Kings Cross, Charing Cross, 
etc. Gladstone’s statue stands in the main part of the church. 
It is said to be a very good likeness of him. He is represented 
with a gown, or robe, such as he wore when Prime Minister. 
The inscription on most of the tombs was in the old English 
and difficult to read. 

As it was Holy Week London was very dull, that is, dull 
for London, but the ’buses were all on the go. There is an 
automobile ’bus there now which is putting horses out of busi¬ 
ness. A police officer told me that they took passengers to a 
place called Richmond, a distance of twelve miles, for eight 
pence. Automobile ’buses were running in Paris when we 
were there, but they did not compare with the London’ bus. 



London—Westminster Abbey 



Houses of Parliament 



London Motor Bus 












































































143 


There is one thing I saw in Paris which I did not see anywhere 
else and that was an arrangement attached to the cab, which 
registered the distance one rode and you paid so many cen¬ 
times for each fixed distance. If you hire a cab by the hour it 
was arranged so as to register while the horse was standing. 
I thought it a very good arrangement, especially among the 
French, as there was no chance for a scrap with the driver. 

On Sunday we took a motor ’bus and went to Mass at a 
church called the Brompton Oratory. It is a large church with 
a dome. There is a Virgin's altar, and I noticed the same 
practice of decorating the Virgin seemed prevalent there as in 
Italy. There is also in this church a bronze statue of St. 
Peter in his chair, I should say a duplicate of the one in St. 
Peter’s church in Rome, and the custom of kissing the toe was 
also practiced to a considerable extent, the toe being pretty 
well polished and worn. The church was well filled, and the 
singing, by a male choir, was very good. On account of the 
name of the church I anticipated a good sermon, but in that 
I was disappointed, for I sat right near the pulpit and could 
not hear a word the priest said. 

In the afternoon we walked through Hyde Park; saw the 
Albert Memorial monument, a grand piece of work. There 
are four projecting corners on the base, one with a camel and 
group of natives representing Africa, one with an elephant 
and a group of natives representing Asia, one with a bison or 
buffalo representing America, and one with a bull representing 
Europe. Then there are a large number of figures of all the 
shining lights who had passed away. There are four groups 
representing commerce, engineering, manufacturing and agri¬ 
culture. All this is carved out of white stone, and the entire 
thing is a magnificent piece of work. Albert sits on a horse 
way up on top, made of golden mosaics, and above that rises a 
high tower or turret of bronze material. A band was playing 


144 


in the park, so we sat down, listened to the music and watched 
the people. As it was a fine day pretty much every man and 
his girl was in the park. I don’t think I ever saw such a varia¬ 
tion in the size of men. There were little sa wed-offs, not 
much over four feet high, alongside of meh that appeared to 
be six feet six. There were a number of soldiers among the 
crowd and I noticed that some of them had green bands on 
their caps, others had white and others plaid. I inquired and 
was told that the green were the Irish, the plaid Scotch, and the 
white were the English. 

We went from the park back to the hotel and I met our 
friend George Ade seated in the coffee room. Joined him and 
he introduced me to a gentleman, a Mr. Riley, who owned and 
operated one of the largest theaters in London. After chatting 
awhile, another man dropped in and was introduced as Mr. 
Flynn, who managed and operated a newspaper, and after a 
short time another gentleman joined the party. He was in¬ 
troduced as Mr. Burns, who owned and operated a lot of slot 
machines, all were from the States. I thought it a very 
strange coincidence to meet three men from America with Irish 
names, doing business in London, and apparently making 
money. I thought it was rather reversing the order of things. 

Easter Monday is one of what they call their bank holidays. 
Everything in the way of business was closed, but all the places 
of amusement were open. I had taken a London cold and was 
in the dumps. My O. S. H. was up and about, but the shops 
were closed so she had to be content with the churches. I 
bought tickets and we went to a show at the Colosseum. It 
was of the variety order on a moving stage and was very funny. 

Tuesday, April eleventh, I took the train and went to see 
our agent, F. W. Sinnock, at Bristol. The distance is one 
hundred seventeen and one-half miles and we made the run in 
two hours. It cost me thirty-four shillings for a round trip, 



The Albert Memorial 



Old Curiosity Shop 
































145 


which I figured equal to three and one-half cents a mile. Mr. 
Whiteley came up with his good wife from Liverpool and we 
sat around chatting until about midnight. 

April 18th we strolled down the Strand until we reached 
Trafalgar Square, then crossed over to Picadilly Circus and 
went into the National Gallery, once more craning our necks 
looking at pictures. They have them there from artists of all 
the different nationalities of Europe. We also visited the Por¬ 
trait Gallery, where we saw portraits of all the shining lights 
that are past and gone, quite a few Irish names among them, 
one Fox, a very odd looking gent. I believe he was at one 
time a chum of Burke and Sheridan. It was lunch time when 
we finished the galleries and when we reached the street we 
saw what appeared like a nice clean restaurant and decided to 
take lunch there. It was a vegetarian place and our meal cost 
us ten pence. I told my O. S. H. we would put that meal 
against one for which we paid twenty-one shillings, about five 
dollars, at the Savoy, the evening before, and in that way bring 
our average down. This demonstrates the extremes of Lon¬ 
don. 

Then we drove to the tower. On the way I called at Ar¬ 
mour & Company’s place to see Mr. Trengouse. He was out 
and so I left my card. At the tow T er we saw the axe used in 
cutting off heads in the olden times; the gates they used to 
pass in a boat load of prisoners, from the Thames. This old 
stuff was interesting, inasmuch as it brings back to our minds 
the history of the cruelties of former ages, so we can congratu¬ 
late ourselves that the world and the people in it are growing 
better. On the way we stopped at St. Paul’s Cathedral. This 
cathedral is a good deal on the museum order, same as those 
in Rome. I believe it was built and owned formerly by the 
Catholics when the English nation was Catholic. It is used to 
a great extent as a cemetery and contains a lot of tombs of 


146 


heroes of the British army and navy. It struck me as rather 
a strange place for monuments of men made famous by their 
ability to kill other men. 

A lot of the people in London seem to overdo the polite act, 
so far as the expression “thank you” goes. When a waiter 
pulls out your chair in the dining room and you sit down he 
says “Thank you.” I went into a barber shop one morning 
for a shave. When I sat down in the chair the barber said 
“Thank you.” I leaned back placing myself in position for 
him to work on me and he said “Thank you.” After he had 
shaved one side of my face I turned my head and he said 
“Thank you.” After he finished his work I got out of the 
chair and he said “Thank you.” I gave him a two shilling 
piece, he said “Thank you.” He handed me back my change 
and said “Thank you.” 

A policeman in London is called a Bobby, and if Bobby 
happens -to be stationed at a point or where the street is sloping 
and you should ask him where you would find a certain number, 
instead of telling you so many blocks or squares up or down the 
street, he would say, “Up at the tup” or “Down at the buttom.” 

We left London for Liverpool Thursday, April nineteenth, 
and put up at the Adelphi Hotel. Next morning I made the 
round of the bacon business. Took lunch with Mr. Jones, 
who, with Mr. Whiteley, were very courteous and made my 
stay in Liverpool most pleasant. I went on Change, or to a 
place which they called the News Building, probably for the 
reason that they get news of the market there. Saw quite a 
few gentlemen whom I had met before, either in Liverpool, 
Chicago or Milwaukee. 

Next day my O. S. H. and I went to Manchester to see 
and hear Mrs. Patrick Campbell play. The play was called 
the Whirlwind, and we both voted that Mrs. Campbell is a 
great artist. Manchester is a great cotton manufacturing city. 



Liverpool—The Landing Stage 



R. M. Steamship "Baltic” 



















147 


All about the streets were loads of sheeting. The Midland 
Railroad Company is doing a good deal to help the city along; 
they built and maintain a very fine large hotel there as well as 
a theater in connection with it. We had lunch in this hotel and 
sat around waiting for the play, and while waiting I noticed a 
sign in the palm garden notifying men that during certain 
hours of the day they would be allowed to smoke pipes in the 
palm garden. I thought it a little odd, but I presume it was 
necessary, as there are an awful lot of pipe smokers over there. 

Sunday, April twenty-second, we had the pleasure of meet¬ 
ing our nephew, Edward A. Cudahy, Jr., of Omaha, who was 
over with Mr. and Mrs. Wilkins. Mr. Wilkins is the manager 
of their fresh beef department. We went to the cathedral to 
seven o’clock Mass. Then afterward read and loafed about, 
until noon. My O. S. H. and I took the ferry and crossed the 
Mercy River to Mr. Jones’ residence, where we had dinner and 
spent a very pleasant afternoon. Mr. Jones took us out for a 
ride to West Kirby. Along the route of our ride we passed a 
number of old-fashioned English farm houses, a few of them 
thatched with straw. 

Next day, Monday, April twenty-third, we took a ride on 
the elevated road and saw Liverpool’s famous docks on one 
side and the immense horses and drays carting loads, on the 
other. In the afternoon we went out to Hoy Lake, to Mr. 
Whiteley’s place. My wife visited with Mrs. Whiteley and I 
played golf with Mr. Whiteley and Mr. Nickerson, his nephew. 
I was rather poor in the start, but finished a little better. After 
dinner we played bridge and got back to the hotel about eleven 
o’clock, and as we were obliged to change from one train to 
another at a certain station, I was on the look-out. Put my 
head out of the window and asked the conductor where the 
station, calling it by name, was. Here is what he answered, 
“The next but one, Sir.’’ My wife asked me, “What did he 


148 


mean?” I said I understood it to be the second station, that 
was his way of putting it. 

April twenty-fourth I again made the rounds of the bacon 
men’s offices and my O. S. H. did the shops. That evening 
we went out to Mr. John McAvoy’s house and had dinner and 
spent a very pleasant evening playing cards and billiards. 

Next day was our day for sailing. We had the Whiteleys 
down to lunch with us. Went on board the Baltic about four 
o’clock. The usual crowd of people stood on the dock waving 
their handkerchiefs, etc., among them our friends, Whiteleys 
and Jones. We pulled out some little distance, dropped an¬ 
chor and waited for the tide. Found that our paper mill 
friends from Northern Wisconsin were on board and we had it 
arranged so that we all were seated at the same table. There 
were fourteen of us, all acquainted, more or less, with each 
other. I was named as chairman of the table, but declined 
the honor in favor of Mr. Jones. 

While stopping at the Adelphi Hotel in Liverpool, the 
hotel barber, like all other barbers, was a sort of a bureau of 
information. He told me the habits of the people of Liver¬ 
pool had improved very much in the last ten years; that there 
are not near so many saloons or public houses as there used to 
be; that drinking another fellow under the table was a thing 
of the past, and that all the old three bottle fellows had passed 
away. He also informed me that most of the policemen of 
Liverpool were Irish. The authorities require a man of cer¬ 
tain proportion and height and that the English were rather 
small people and would not fill the requirements. 

We arrived at Queenstown, April twenty-sixth, about 
noon, and the Irish hills were just green enough to be attrac¬ 
tive. Dropped anchor and, as usual, our steamer took on quite 
a number of steerage passengers. I watched them as they 
came up the gang plank and they were a very good, healthy 



An Irish Jaunting Car 



Homeward Bound 


















149 


looking lot of people. One could hear remarks among our pas¬ 
sengers such as “Those fellows will be on the police force in 
New York City next year;” others would say, “They will soon 
be running our politics, etc.” This reminds me of a little anec¬ 
dote our friend Ade told on the steamer as we were crossing 
the Mediterranean together. “Someone called at one of the 
New England towns and inquired if there were any Irishmen 
in that city. The answer was that there were two, one was the 
mayor and the other the chief of police.” He also gave us 
this conundrum, “Who was the greatest benefactor of the Irish 
race?” The answer, “Columbus, when he discovered America.” 

A number of men selling black thorn sticks and women 
selling lace, boarded the steamer, and it was amusing to hear 
them get off their quick-witted sayings. One passenger 
bought a black thorn stick from one of the peddlers and after 
he had purchased it and paid for it some one told him it was not 
genuine black thorn. He asked the opinion of one of the Irish 
women, who was selling lace, whether it was black thorn or not. 
The answer came quick. “No, sir, it is a weeping willow and 
when you go home if you will stick it in the ground a fine tree 
will spring up.” It was one way of telling him he should know 
better than to ask. 

Our trip across the ocean was very pleasant, had but one 
rough day, but it was not bad. Each one of our table party 
resolved himself into a committee of one to entertain the others. 
There was story telling and laughter until at times people at 
other tables would turn around and look at us. We passed the 
days sleeping, eating, reading and walking the deck, etc. 

As usual, there was a concert given and it devolved upon 
our friend Price Jones to manage it. One of the passengers, 
an English nobleman, Sir Robert Dashwood, and, to use the 
slang of the day, he was “nutty,” wanted to take part in making 
the concert a success, and thought that Romeo and Juliet would 


150 


be just the thing. He volunteered to take the part of Romeo, but 
it was not so easy to get Juliet. After word was passed around 
among the girls, however, there was one who volunteered to be 
Juliet, in the rehearsal which took place the evening before the 
concert. She was a snappy, bright-eyed girl, full of mischief, 
and we had no end of fun with Sir Robert. She told him that 
the proper position for Romeo was on his knees at Juliet’s feet. 

Sir Robert did as he was told and knelt on the deck of the ship 
and recited his lines in that position. We had no end of fun 
looking at the poor fellow balancing himself as the ship would 
roll and pitch. On the evening of the concert he appeared all 
togged out for his piece, but Juliet was missing. 

Saturday, May fourth, we pulled into the pier at New York 
and after getting our trunks through the custom house, which 
was not nearly the annoyance that we anticipated, we sent our 
luggage to the Pennsylvania depot and took a cab our¬ 
selves. After getting our tickets and checking our trunks 
we returned to the Fifth Avenue Hotel and lunched. After 
lunch my O. S. H. took in the shops while I visited with Mr. 
Frank Matlage, talked hams and business for awhile. 

In the evening we took the Pennsylvania train for Dayton, 
where we were to spend Sunday with our daughter, Mrs. 
Ferneding. Our lucky star must have been guiding us for we 
intended to take a train which left New York earlier, and when * 
we pulled into the station near Pittsburg next morning the 
newsboys were yelling, “All about the wreck on the Pennsyl¬ 
vania, ten killed and fifteen injured,” which happened to the 
train that we had thought of taking. If we were in any way 
mixed as to whether we were in the United States or not, the 
newsboys’ account of the wreck cleared our minds, for one 
might travel for a good many years on the other side and would 
not hear of “ten killed and fifteen injured.” 


151 


We spent Saturday night and Sunday in Dayton with Mr. 
and Mrs. Ferneding and their friends, and Sunday night left 
for home. I arrived in my office Monday afternoon, after 
being away four months lacking two days, and after traveling 
about twelve thousand miles and not having a mishap. I en¬ 
joyed every day of my vacation and yet was happy to get home. 





















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